problem mk9 update with question

[kerby9mm]

Kahr replaced the trigger bar in my mk9 but the slide is still sticking when I hold the trigger all the way back and try to rack the slide. Today I field stripped both my mk40 & and the 9. Then put the 9 slide on the 40 frame (without barrels or springs) The 9 slide did not stick on the 40 frame with trigger pulled. I then put the 40 slide on the 9 frame and the slide would not come back unless I let up a tad on the trigger. The cam to depress the striker plate comes up just above the frame and does not on the 40 when the trigger is pulled. My question is on these guns what is the trigger stop. The best I could figure is that it might be on the inside of the frame above the trigger on the right side. I'm not sure but I saw a difference between the two guns. Does anyone know for sure because I think my trigger has a little too much travel

[jocko]

no trigger stops on any kahrs, ur mk9 and mk40 both have a 3/8" trigger travel on them, non adjustable.

question: have u shot the MK9 since u got it back???Does it work perfect??? Why would u want to hold the trigger all the way back to rack the slide? Not sure if I can ever say I have did that with any gun. I am not sure even though they seem to slide on your two different frames if the slides are actualy the same in all deminsions.

again u have no trigger stop, u must also release the trigger in able for the gun to reset itself. Holding in on the trigger and racking the slide does not reset the trigger. In taking the slide off the gun, it must first as u know be unloaded and then as ur pulling the slide off, u pull the trigger and this release thecocking cam to let the sldie come forward. I have seen on some of the same models that sometime sthe slide slides right off and on others a slight tug s needed. Both are OK and the primary thing is the BANG thing happening every time.

Put a couple hundred rounds throgh the gun and see what if any changes are noticed. Sometimes just the rapid action of the slide does wonders for any gun.

[kerby9mm]

My reasoning is this: If you are rapid firing in a situation and you pull the trigger fast and hard the round discharges, the slide is coming back at the same time you have the trigger pulled isn't it possible the timing could be as such to restrict the rearward movement of the slide. If one of my guns functions differently than the other and they are both the same make,model just a different caliber I feel something is not right with one of them.

[FLBri]

Why would u want to hold the trigger all the way back to rack the slide?
Put a couple hundred rounds throgh the gun and see what if any changes are noticed. Sometimes just the rapid action of the slide does wonders for any gun.
This was my question when I read, also. i can't think of any situation where that would be relevant to anything. Like Jocko said, sometimes the interaction of parts on pistols of the same model can be a little different. I would also recommend 200 down range ... and I bet many of these abnormalities will sort themselves out. I know its frustrating, I've been through it myself, but firing 200 rounds does allot to mate the parts.

You aren't just getting the "take 200 rounds and call us in the morning" line. It IS actually the best advice for the symptoms.

My MK9 had minor issues and actually took 400 to 500 rounds to break in properly. I now count in the group of my most reliable defense weapons, along side my PM9.

Your last post, came in while I was typing this one, kerby. there is a difference between pulling (racking) the slide and pushing explosively from the inside. I could be all wet, but honestly, until you test fire it there isn't much but speculation. I'm going to go check my MK9 and see if I can rack with the trigger pulled. I've never tried!

[FLBri]

Yeah, mine is unhindered when racking back with the trigger pulled back ... both with the magazine, and without.

I would still fire it, and see how it sorts out.

Where does the slide hang up? Right from the start? or half way back?

[kerby9mm]

It hangs up right at yhe start Won't movr at all unless I let off just a little. If you fieldstrip it see when you pull the trigger see if the cam is even or just below the top of the rail. My mk9 is just above. I guess all I'm talking anout is pressure on the slide from the cam going up too high

[CJB]

Both of my two older PM's do that very same thing and its a non-issue - why ? Because the parts move faster than it takes for the trigger to ever get to that point while actually firing.

[FLBri]

Both of my two older PM's do that very same thing and its a non-issue - why ? Because the parts move faster than it takes for the trigger to ever get to that point while actually firing.

That makes sense, I bet if you fire it it will be completely a non issue. If it is, you can send it back with further instructions, but worrying about it without firing is only eating you up.

If it's a further problem, I know Kahr will make it right. My money would be on it being a non issue though. Fire it off and prove us wrong!!

[FLBri]

Ok, this morning I took a closer and longer look in both my PM9 and MK9. What stops the trigger travel seems to be the extension on the right side of the trigger itself (from the rear) stops where it runs into the frame. This is the part that the trigger bar attaches to.

Speculating: if this part was out of spec (as in 'over' machined), potentially it would allow too much travel of the trigger on down the line to raising the cocking cam too much. Does your trigger pull all the way to the trigger guard, or does it stop with 3/16" to 1/4" of space between the guard and the trigger (as mine do)?

I've never had the cocking cam out of any of my guns. But it seems there is a hole in the side that attaches to the trigger bar ... this becomes the pull point for the trigger bar. If that attachment hole was machined in the wrong location, it also could cause the over travel of the cam.

I can also see substantial wear marks on the back side of the right blade of the cam where it has abraded itself against the slide movement .. ( as in firing break in!).

Kerby, here is what I would do. I honestly am doubtful you have any problem at all. Fire a few magazines and see what you have got. Go from there.

Alternately, find a very small metal shim and slip it between the extension of the trigger, right in front of where the trigger bar attaches to the trigger, and against the frame. Anything would suffice for a test for thickness ... even layers of tin foil. This would limit the travel of the trigger bar (and trigger). Remember that it still needs to travel enough to depress the striker block or the firing pin will not come forward. This point should be approximately where the cocking cam right finger is flush with the top edge of the frame, or "slightly" higher.

Experiment with that and if it does what you need, find a flat solid metal shim and super glue it in there once you have found the right thickness and proved it out. Otherwise you could relate all this to Kahr and ask them to trouble shoot those parts after you have proven the issue. Personally I would take more satisfaction fixing it myself to where I know it works the way I want it to.

But PLEASE .... shoot the damn thing first and see if you have a problem! :D

[FLBri]

One more thing .... on the subject of potentially no issue at all ....

I suspect that the reason it wont travel back when you pull the slide with the trigger back is because the front of the finger on the cocking cam is sticking up into the well where the striker block recesses. The front edge of the finger is fairly sharp. When you actually fire the gun, the trigger breaks and releases the the firing pin long before the finger of the cam reaches that height. The slide would move QUICKLY (explosively!) beyond the point where that front edge of the cam finger could get up into that well. Eventually, that front edge corner will wear to the point it is irrelevant anyway.

When the slide come forward, the cocking cam spring is the only thing that holds the tension of the cam against the underside of the slide. It doesn't matter if your finger is squeezing the life out of the trigger .... that pressure is not holding the cam in place after the break point.

Thats why it should not be an issue at all!

I hope all this helps you ... I sure have learned something... LOL

[kerby9mm]

That is a great idea. I will try that with something.