Brass Brush Inside the Barrel?

[OldLincoln]

Is using a Brass Brush OK for Inside the Barrel?

[Vinikahr]

Is using a Brass Brush OK for Inside the Barrel?

You should go one way if you use it.
The PM9 has polygonal barrel and if you use FMJ you should not need to use a brass brush.:phone:

[jocko]

brass bruch will not harm your barrel...

[Dietrich]

A brass brush is great for helping to loosen up deposits of particulate matter and will not harm your barrel.

[deadhead1971]

I first used a nylon bore brush when cleaning. I suggest using a brass brush, and I intend to do so from here on out.

The last time I cleaned after shooting, I ran a patch with bore cleaner through the barrel. It came out dirty. I ran a few more patches through until it came out not so dirty. Was the barrel clean? No. After that, I ran a brass 9mm sized bore brush down the barrel a few times. I then put in another patch with bore cleaner, and the patch came out black dirty all over again. The black nylon brush did not loosen up the soot like a brass one did.

[ripley16]

I've used brass brushes forever with no ill effects. They don't harm the steel.


You should go one way if you use it.



How would you do that? :confused: The only admonition I'm aware of is when using a metal brush is to complete each stroke fully, reverse only with the brush out of the barrel.

[Vinikahr]

I've used brass brushes forever with no ill effects. They don't harm the steel.




How would you do that? :confused: The only admonition I'm aware of is when using a metal brush is to complete each stroke fully, reverse only with the brush out of the barrel.

Simple, the brush should be attached to a rod that does not have the ring or handle. Push in the gun barrel and take out and repeat.

[ripley16]

Simple, the brush should be attached to a rod that does not have the ring or handle. Push in the gun barrel and take out and repeat.

Of course. This is where I go "DOOH!" :D

[Vinikahr]

Of course. This is where I go "DOOH!" :D

:7::D

[500KV]

As has been said, brass brushes won't harm your barrel.

I also use a good bore cleaner and wrap a small piece of Chore Boy (copper scouring pad) around the brush.
Does a good job of getting all the residue out of the barrel.
This method is especially effective if you shoot any lead.:)

[jeep45238]

It won't hurt going both directions with the brush in the barrel - sure it spreads crud around a bit more in the barrel, but it also scrapes it off of the steel at a much much faster rate.

I pitty the fool who does the "push the brush one way only" method with a leaded barrel :D

[wyntrout]

Invest in a caliber specific Lewis Lead Remover Kit -- uses brass screen patches -- very effective for serious leading, as in pushing a lead bullet way too fast though a 6" model 629! I know from experience.
Wynn:D

[steve666]

Steel being harder than brass there is no harm to your barrel, it just gets the gunk out.

[Bawanna]

Which brings up the old argument regarding lead bullets in polygonal rifled barrels. Glock says it's a no no, several I'm told have shot lots of lead with no difficulties. I don't shoot lead in my autos so not concerned but need to continue to stir the pot.

[jeep45238]

Invest in a caliber specific Lewis Lead Remover Kit -- uses brass screen patches -- very effective for serious leading, as in pushing a lead bullet way too fast though a 6" model 629! I know from experience.
Wynn:D

Or not having anybody showing you the ropes, and not slugging the barrel before ordering my sizer diameter - and I had already loaded up a good solid 600 after the issue showed up. Said heck with it and shot 'em all in one sitting - this next batch is a harder water quenched allow, and will be sized correctly - shouldn't have any issues.



Which brings up the old argument regarding lead bullets in polygonal rifled barrels. Glock says it's a no no, several I'm told have shot lots of lead with no difficulties. I don't shoot lead in my autos so not concerned but need to continue to stir the pot.

The only time this would be of concern is if you have sever leading issues. Due to the rounded nature of polygonal rifling, a leaded barrel firing projectiles could possibly seal 100% around the barrel, causing it to overpressure and go boom. Standard rifling this is not present due to the harsh 90* angles involved.

Bring a bore snake with you and give it a pull every few mags if you're worried about it, but if you take the time and make your boolits properly, size/lube them properly, and obey velocity restrictions, you won't have any problem - even with polygonal.

[OldLincoln]

I was doing fine with the Yes you can use a brass brush, then the stuff about lead bullets, brush only 1 way; polygonal barrel; size/lube bullets (what do you use to lube bullets) ;pull a snake through the barrel (how many times can you do that before it bites you?); put scrub pad around the brush?

Is FMJ a lead bullet? I'll be getting Spear Gold Dot 124g SB for SD rds when I find some locally. Are they OK?

I don't know polygonal but do I really need to? Does it hurt the Poly's if I push the brush all the way through, then pull it all the way back through?

Couldn't resist funnin you about bullet lube and bore snakes.

I don't know that my shooting warrants a scrub pad, but I have discovered I like to use the brush to push pads through, is that OK?

Also, the comment about learning the ropes. I used to know how - learned over 50 years ago and skipped shooting for the past 30, so I'm not too sure now. I watched 3 or 4 UTube videos and suspect I'm close but they didn't discuss some of this stuff. They did show using a nylon brush that looks like a tooth brush. Is it really a tooth brush or do I need to buy something else.

Finally I'm using Gunzilla for all the cleaning & lube (not on bullets however). Anything wrong with that?

I appreciate your help - no joke!

[jeep45238]

I was doing fine with the Yes you can use a brass brush, then the stuff about lead bullets, brush only 1 way; polygonal barrel; size/lube bullets (what do you use to lube bullets) ;pull a snake through the barrel (how many times can you do that before it bites you?); put scrub pad around the brush?

Is FMJ a lead bullet? I'll be getting Spear Gold Dot 124g SB for SD rds when I find some locally. Are they OK?

I don't know polygonal but do I really need to? Does it hurt the Poly's if I push the brush all the way through, then pull it all the way back through?

Couldn't resist funnin you about bullet lube and bore snakes.

I don't know that my shooting warrants a scrub pad, but I have discovered I like to use the brush to push pads through, is that OK?

Also, the comment about learning the ropes. I used to know how - learned over 50 years ago and skipped shooting for the past 30, so I'm not too sure now. I watched 3 or 4 UTube videos and suspect I'm close but they didn't discuss some of this stuff. They did show using a nylon brush that looks like a tooth brush. Is it really a tooth brush or do I need to buy something else.

Finally I'm using Gunzilla for all the cleaning & lube (not on bullets however). Anything wrong with that?

I appreciate your help - no joke!

I can't tell if this is serious or a joke.

And I use a nose- first sizing die and tumble lube with Lee liquid Alox.

[OldLincoln]

My reply above is serious except for the bullet lube and bore snakes. Sorry if my old sense of humor is off base.

[jeep45238]

FMJ has a lead core, but the lead is not exposed to the barrel.

Pushing or pulling, or both, the brush through a polygonal barrel will not hurt it, just like standard rifling.

Sure, use the brush to push through cleaning patches, but you really won't be cleaning the barrel that well. Get a proper brass jag for that purpose.

You can use any kind of brush, patch, rag, t shirt, bath towel, etc. to clean with. You don't need to have anything fancy schmancy for cleaning.

Nothing wrong with Gunzilla. I've used just about every gun oil and grease you can find out there on my guns, along with lots of products that you wouldn't even think about using for gun lube. The guns always ran 100% - they would NOT always run when pushed hard if ran dry. I will NOT recommend anything the MilTec lube that's marketed up on one of the ads at the top of the webpage - massive joke.

With that being said, I bought a small bottle of Slip2000, and am a true believer in it now. I've literally thrown out all of my other lubes, and will only be using that from now on. It has made slide movement and triggers amazing, and it does an amazing job at cleaning too. The dirt it's gotten off of my guns that were cleaned with Hoppe's #9 just before application of Slip2000 for lube is just - wow. You'd think I never clean any of my guns:19:

[OldLincoln]

Thanks Mike!

[rjmcw9]

Mike, Where are you finding the Slip 2000. Also I am a cronic over luber. I have been using CLP in spray form and my guns look like I dunked them in a pail of oil. I know this isn't good to do but I always worry about a dry gun. Just a confession of sorts. :rolleyes:

[jeep45238]

Midwayusa is where I bought the 4 ounce spray bottle to try out - expensive in the small packages by volume, since you spend a lot more for those little containers.

I'll be buying the 16oz trigger spray direct from slip2000 when I'm running low though. I'm not running the Slip2000 EWL, just standard Slip2000. It's simply amazing, I've seen it make rifles work for an hour that 5 minutes before couldn't go 1 or 2 rounds without severe issues.

Give a couple squirts into the middle of a patch, fold it in half, and just run the lubed part of the patch over the areas you want lubed. It doesn't evaporate fast at all, I'm at 5 weeks on the parkarized bolt carrier group on my AR15, and it's just starting to show sings of not being wet - still obviously lubed when you look at it, but not as wet as i usually keep it. It's probably more from being stored muzzle up, and is probably slowly draining into the buffer tube.

[a.squibload]

I'll get some Slip2000 but will continue to use Hoppe's, you know,
a drop behind each ear.

Have used the Lewis lead remover screen/plug thing in 44, but that's another story.

Almost bought a mold for 40 but will read more about lead vs polygon. Thanks for the
heads up on barrel sealing, that could be serious. I usually drop from the mold
into a bucket of water for hardening, use wheelweights for alloy, seems hard enough.
Have read about baking slugs in oven, heat-treating, wife says NO...A.

[jeep45238]

Bore Snakes rock if there's just powder deposits or light lead/copper foulding to clean up.

1-4 pulls and it comes out clean as heck with a lot less mess and time than a brush and jag.



I still use Hoppe's #9 solvent on my 1891/30 - it neutralizes corrosive salts.

I drop into a water bucket too with wheel weights and haven't had any issues with leading - if I do get the 06FFL that I'm pursuing I'll be using a conveyor style oven used for sandwiches for age hardening my boolits - till then, I'm sticking to .45 for my lead until I can snag a few samples of .40 boolits to try before I buy a mold.

If you have leading, look at the Tipton rifle bronze brushes. They fit very tight, and do an amazing job of cleaning out leading when used dry.

[a.squibload]

Dang, good idea! The main thing keeping me from eating at Quizno's (sammich
shop) is the smell of burning hair from that conveyor oven. Good to know
those things could have a useful purpose.

[earle8888]

Have shot many thous of lead thru glock 19 and Kahr 40. Do clean very well after every trip to the range. Do use the yellow "lead-remover" cloth cut into paatches after the regular paatches tell me its clean. DON'T like the wheel weight. I only, ONLY use Lyman #2 alloy, and Lyman bullet lube.