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AIRret
05-21-2012, 06:45 AM
What brand of reloading equipment would you folks recommend;
hornady, lee, etc.....
Thanks!

dkmatthews
05-21-2012, 07:14 AM
Lee's dies are less expensive than others, from what I've seen, so I use them in my Lyman T-Mag II single stage turret press.

ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 07:47 AM
I have a Lee Turret Press. Got a great deal on a kit at Cabela's - Press, scale, funnel, Primer auto-feed, Auto-disk powder measure, and a few tools. I think I paid just over $100 for the whole deal. It makes my cartridges and they go bang (every time except one with a dead primer). The only thing you would need to buy at that point would be the die set, powder, and whatever components you will reload (go for the carbide dies; they are more expensive, but you don't need to use case lube then).
That being said, I have had some annoying little things with it that make me wonder if I would have been happier with an RCBS set-up. Of course, I was new to reloading when I bought this, and these little things may just be part of the process. Most folks who buy one have nothing but good things to say.
Cabela's has the kit on sale for $114.95 (link below). If you don't live near a Cabela's, they usually run free or very cheap shipping specials.
Also, there are a lot of helpful videos and info out there in case you don't have an experienced reloader to help you (that was my situation). There is also a very helpful Board called the Handloaders Bench. I got a great deal of help there, and they are friendly folks, just like this Board.
Enjoy, and let me know if you have any questions.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Lee-Deluxe-Turret-Press-Reloading-Kit/740033.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3D searchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProduc ts%26Ntt%3DLee%2BTurret%2BPress%26WTz_l%3DHeader%2 53BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=Lee+Turret+Press&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products

ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 07:48 AM
Actually, when you go to that link, it says there is free shipping on orders over $99, so you're good to go if you want.

Longitude Zero
05-21-2012, 07:53 AM
Definitely get carbide dies. Case lube is a royal pain. I am partial to Lee reloaders.

DKD
05-21-2012, 11:30 AM
I like Lee Dies, however for the actual press I have both Lyman and RCBS. Both are built like a rock outouse. My Lyman "C" press is over 36 years old and as good as the day I bought it. For my rifle loading I now use my RCBS "Rock Chucker"...you might want to look into either a turrent press or a simple progressive press if you are going to shoot alot, especialy for pistols.

Bawanna
05-21-2012, 11:46 AM
I used the RCBS Rockchucker set up for many many years and still do for rifle or testing loads.
Couple years ago I got a Hornady LockNLoad progressive. It's the cats posterior and I wish I'd got it long long ago. Very good machine.

Carbide dies for sure. A digital scale is nice but the old balance beam works ok too.

I like hand priming using a Lee tool which I can't do with the progressive but I still use it on the single stage.

pitandkahr
05-21-2012, 12:02 PM
I have the Hornady Lock n Load Kit. Now I just need the confidence to try it. LOL


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dkmatthews
05-21-2012, 12:03 PM
I have the Hornady Lock n Load Kit. Now I just need the confidence to try it. LOL


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if you can read and follow directions, you'll be fine. The bullets won't make themselves. :D

ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 12:13 PM
I have the Hornady Lock n Load Kit. Now I just need the confidence to try it. LOL


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Don't sweat it. Start with load data on the lower end of the spectrum and you'll be fine. The only one I was ever nervous about was the first one I made. After that, just be patient and don't do anything extreme. You'll be fine.

Bawanna
05-21-2012, 12:45 PM
I shared your reservations when I got the Hornady even after loading for years and years. There's an awful lot happening each time you pull the handle.
The thing I like about the Hornady is I can pull the case at any station and see if whats suppose to be happening is happening.

What screws me up is like running out of primers or miss something and you try to feed it back in at the right station to fix it. Goofs me up every time. I just leave them out now and run those last by themselves.

I took the stick that rides on top of the primers and put a piece of blue painters tape on it where it sits when it's out. Just glance at it from time to time and know when I'm getting low.

Mounted a dental mirror over the case in the seating station and I can easily see if there is powder in every case.

It sure is fast yet accurate and reliable when the operator does his part. Can load in a couple hours what used to take all day and then some.

pitandkahr
05-21-2012, 12:57 PM
Thanks guys for your input. Can I bug you sometime with my more detailed questions. I really want to start loading because my ammo costs are getting up there with all these Kahrs. LOL


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ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 01:03 PM
Anytime on the questions. When I load 45ACP, I save a ton. Where I lose money is when I buy more and more stuff. I figure sooner or later, I'll be set for life.

dkmatthews
05-21-2012, 01:05 PM
I figure I save about 50% per box (or more, depending on the caliber) by rolling my own pistol ammo.

I'm not trying to save money when reloading rifle, though. I'm trying to make sure I've got a supply of milspec M2 ball ammo to feed my old surplus rifles.

pitandkahr
05-21-2012, 01:11 PM
I'm looking forward to it and want to pick up the brass and bullets (online probably). However, trying to pick the right stuff is confusing. Tonight I want to pick up primers and powders (locally to avoid HM charges) but not sure which and how much. I have a discount at the range that expires today. :-)


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Bawanna
05-21-2012, 01:15 PM
I generally don't buy brass. I'll buy factory loaded if I need brass. Pick up all I can at the range, get some here from work on range days.

Brass is the most expensive component.

In your shoes I'd try to get the same bullet weight for practice loads as you carry.

I try to buy powder and primers locally now also. The haz mat fees usually kill any savings but sometimes there are still deals.

I like Precision Delta for bullets. A real jacketed bullet for nearly or sometimes better pricing than plated.

dkmatthews
05-21-2012, 01:16 PM
Buying brass is very expensive and silly, IMHO. Just recycle the brass from your commercial ammo.

It's a good plan to buy your powder and primers from your local dealer or gun show to avoid the hazmat fees. I haven't been able to see a difference between primers, but read your reloading manual and choose your powder from their suggested loads. I use Blue Dot for pistol ammo because it tends to come closer to filling the brass than other powders that only use half as much and I was taught that a cartridge that has lots of empty space may suffer from poor combustion.

I can vouch for bullets from Berry's Manufacturing. I've had great success with their copper plated bullets in both Glocks and Kahrs.

ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 01:17 PM
What caliber are you looking to reload?

ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 01:23 PM
If you're going to shoot lead, look at Lasercast from Oregon Trail. Great reputation, great company to deal with, and free shipping from the factory (which save a lot if you have to buy your bullets online).

pitandkahr
05-21-2012, 01:46 PM
What caliber are you looking to reload?

I'm only loading 9mm. I need to get brass because I don't have any to start with :-( I also need to get a tumbler too come to think of it. I've been picking up my old brass but not enough to start my loading project.


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pitandkahr
05-21-2012, 01:48 PM
Oh, and I shoot WWB, Federal and Speer at the range. Usually 115 but higher when I find it on sale.


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ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 03:38 PM
You don't necessarily need to spend money on a tumbler. I found a recipe on The Handloaders Bench that works fine and saves me a bunch of money (which I now spend on more "stuff").

1 Quart Hot Water
1 Cup White Vinegar
1 Tbls Salt (any kind)
1 Tbls Liquid Dish Soap (I by the cheapest WallyWorld stuff I can find)

Put your brass in there and stir it up every five minutes for 1/2 hour.
When the 1/2 hour is done, rinse thoroughly until all chemical and soap is gone.
Turn on your oven on the lowest setting.
Put brass on a baking tray and they will be completely dry in 1/2 hour or so.
WARNING - If you use your wife's Non-Stick Baking Sheets, you will be a much happier guy if you put some tin foil on the sheet before the brass. I'm just sayin'...

I've done this for .38, .357, .44, and .45. They come out clean and dirt free. The brass may not shine quite as bright as with a sonic cleaner, but for the $0.20 cents worth of vinegar, soap, and salt, it's a fair trade-off. Besides, the cartridges are usually hidden inside the gun anyway.

Thanks.

Bawanna
05-21-2012, 03:53 PM
Out of curiosity and I don't see where it would make much difference but do you soak deprimed or prior to depriming.

Seems like it would clean out the primer pocket too if you did it afterwards.

dkmatthews
05-21-2012, 04:06 PM
Come to think of it, you could probably use something like a baby bottle holder (plastic mesh) or a mesh bag to put a bunch of brass in your dishwasher... Once again, check with SWMBO before doing anything that might be damaging to your life or marriage.

ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 04:23 PM
Out of curiosity and I don't see where it would make much difference but do you soak deprimed or prior to depriming.

Seems like it would clean out the primer pocket too if you did it afterwards.

I started out depriming first, but then realized that I was running all that dirty brass through the decapper/sizing die, and thought I might mess it up. Since then, I soak first, then deprime them. My kit included a primer hole cleaner, so if anything looks bad, I just do a quick swipe.

As far as the dishwasher, I don't know how that would turn out, since you'd be missing the salt and the vinegar (unless, of course, you had Fish & Chips for dinner).

Bawanna
05-21-2012, 04:27 PM
I started out depriming first, but then realized that I was running all that dirty brass through the decapper/sizing die, and thought I might mess it up. Since then, I soak first, then deprime them. My kit included a primer hole cleaner, so if anything looks bad, I just do a quick swipe.

As far as the dishwasher, I don't know how that would turn out, since you'd be missing the salt and the vinegar (unless, of course, you had Fish & Chips for dinner).

That was kind of my thinking as well. Also depriming after insures theres no obstructions. Seems short of cleaning before and after depriming theres no real good way of cleaning the primer pocket short of a hand tool or one of those case prep machines.

I used to be obsessed with clean primer pockets but I'm getting over it these days. Never have failures.

dkmatthews
05-21-2012, 04:35 PM
I used to be obsessed with clean pockets.

Can't you just visit the casinos on the reservations to have your pockets cleaned? ;-)

dkmatthews
05-21-2012, 04:37 PM
As far as the dishwasher, I don't know how that would turn out, since you'd be missing the salt and the vinegar (unless, of course, you had Fish & Chips for dinner).

If you can't get away with using the dishwasher, you could put a painter stirring attachment on your drill, suspend it over the brass in a five gallon bucket and use the trigger lock to have it stir for you.

ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 05:16 PM
Can't you just visit the casinos on the reservations to have your pockets cleaned? ;-)

Been there....done that. Entered a Poker Tournament once. First prize was a week in Philadelphia. Second prize was two weeks in Philadelphia (thank you W.C. Fields).

AIRret
05-21-2012, 05:43 PM
Wow, great lots of good information. I think we will stay away from progressive presses until we get some experience under our belts.
We are on the road right now so the actual reloading will have to wait a little while. But we definitely want to be set up and running before the november elections.

Bawanna
05-21-2012, 05:47 PM
Many of the Progressives can be used as a single stage or just run 1 case through the whole cycle. Makes it easier to see what's going on.
Then it's an easy transition to start running at capacity.

Nothing wrong with a single stage but it takes a lot of time to produce much ammo. I did it for years. I probably would have shot more and loaded more had I gone progressive long ago.

pitandkahr
05-21-2012, 05:58 PM
I picked up 1000 CCI primers and Winchester Auto Comp powder. Will that work for 115 grain 9mm. I was looking for other brands but they only had rifle powder. The good thing I think is that it was $45 out the door with my discount.


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CJB
05-21-2012, 06:22 PM
At the time, I got a Hornady progressive (mid 90's) because they were better engineered than the Dillon machines of that day. Today... I'd still look very hard at Dillon for a progressive, and Hornady too.

For non-progressive, you just cannot beat a Rock Chucker, from RCBS. Get one used, they'll almost never wear out.

Dies... I just pick up what I can, used, leftover, etc

ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 06:22 PM
Sounds like an OK price. As for powder, I find it easier to research the loads I want first, then buy the powder I need. I have a few powders that I haven't used much of, that collect dust now (although I can always make them work in an emergency).

JFootin
05-21-2012, 07:11 PM
Why is this thread in RKBA Discussion?

ilmbaba
05-21-2012, 07:30 PM
Why is this thread in RKBA Discussion?

That's a good question. I'm pretty sure that when I first posted to this thread, I had found it in the Reloading section. I don't recall ever going into the RKBA tab.
Odd.

dkmatthews
05-21-2012, 07:33 PM
I picked up 1000 CCI primers and Winchester Auto Comp powder. Will that work for 115 grain 9mm. I was looking for other brands but they only had rifle powder. The good thing I think is that it was $45 out the door with my discount.


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I don't have any load data for Winchester AutoComp. I would suggest buying a quality reloading manual with load data/charging tables and following those parameters.

Personally, for a 115 grain jacketed or plated bullet, I would use Blue Dot or Power Pistol. According to my Lyman book, those two powders offer a significantly higher velocity than the other listed powders.

pitandkahr
05-21-2012, 08:00 PM
I don't have any load data for Winchester AutoComp. I would suggest buying a quality reloading manual with load data/charging tables and following those parameters.

Personally, for a 115 grain jacketed or plated bullet, I would use Blue Dot or Power Pistol. According to my Lyman book, those two powders offer a significantly higher velocity than the other listed powders.

I got the data from the Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading...However, I was going to also get the Lyman Reloading Handbook 49th Edition too...But I couldn't find BD or PP around me :mad:

dkmatthews
05-21-2012, 08:03 PM
I got the data from the Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading...However, I was going to also get the Lyman Reloading Handbook 49th Edition too...But I couldn't find BD or PP around me :mad:

Okay, good! You've got a reputable manual. As long as you aren't charging into the breach blindly (ha ha ha), then you ought to be fine.

Keep your eyes peeled for Blue Dot, though. It has worked extremely well for me in both .40S&W and 9mm.

pitandkahr
05-21-2012, 08:48 PM
Okay, good! You've got a reputable manual. As long as you aren't charging into the breach blindly (ha ha ha), then you ought to be fine.

Keep your eyes peeled for Blue Dot, though. It has worked extremely well for me in both .40S&W and 9mm.

Thanks but I just also found out that it's mainly for competing and/or using compensators...Here's what I was told, "It's a slow burning powder that produces lots of gas. Without a compensator for the gas to act on, the recoil will be harsh." I hope they will take it back or just load some and see how it performs...

pitandkahr
05-21-2012, 11:15 PM
Anyone bought brass from Top Brass? It's once used and cleaned and reamed...

http://www.topbrass-inc.com/reloading-supplies/product_details.php?category_id=3&item_id=17

dkmatthews
05-22-2012, 05:35 AM
Anyone bought brass from Top Brass? It's once used and cleaned and reamed...

http://www.topbrass-inc.com/reloading-supplies/product_details.php?category_id=3&item_id=17

i checked out the Precision Delta people after Bawana recommended them -- their brass is cheaper by half and shipping is free.

pitandkahr
05-22-2012, 06:07 AM
i checked out the Precision Delta people after Bawana recommended them -- their brass is cheaper by half and shipping is free.

I thought about that but since i'm super green to reloading I was thinking cleaned and primed would be a great start since I can't afford new. I love those prices but then again, maybe I should try it save $$ and reload more. LOL


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dkmatthews
05-22-2012, 06:13 AM
I thought about that but since i'm super green to reloading I was thinking cleaned and primed would be a great start since I can't afford new. I love those prices but then again, maybe I should try it save $$ and reload more. LOL


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Cleaning & priming are the easiest parts of reloading. You almost can't get it wrong. It's so easy, I taught my seven- and four-year old boys how to do it.
QWTC2L2w4Ws

pitandkahr
05-22-2012, 06:37 AM
Cleaning & priming are the easiest parts of reloading. You almost can't get it wrong. It's so easy, I taught my seven- and four-year old boys how to do it.
QWTC2L2w4Ws

Thank you. I'll check out the video later tonight. I went and ordered 1000 from PD. So we'll see what I get for $48.


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pitandkahr
05-22-2012, 06:40 AM
OMG sooo cute!!! Great little helpers there.


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Bawanna
05-22-2012, 09:32 AM
Couple of fine looking lads. What a fun age, enjoy it all you can, in what seems like about 3 months they'll be bigger than you and you'll never do anything right. That passes after awhile too, don't last forever.

I do see a urgent need for some sheep shears or perhaps training bras though.
I tried to force myself not to type that but I couldn't help myself. Barbers need to eat too ya know?

dkmatthews
05-22-2012, 09:42 AM
I do see a urgent need for some sheep shears or perhaps training bras though.
I tried to force myself not to type that but I couldn't help myself. Barbers need to eat too ya know?

Bawanna -- we have to pick our battles carefully.
:001_tt2: :boink: :yell:
Me & the ex don't see eye to eye on this one :confused: and she has my older boy convinced he should grow his hair out to donate to charity. I figure it this way: I can fight her about it or I can teach him to protect himself from the eventual altercation down the road.

Bawanna
05-22-2012, 10:07 AM
Bawanna -- we have to pick our battles carefully.
:001_tt2: :boink: :yell:
Me & the ex don't see eye to eye on this one :confused: and she has my older boy convinced he should grow his hair out to donate to charity. I figure it this way: I can fight her about it or I can teach him to protect himself from the eventual altercation down the road.

Donating to charity is a noble cause, I was gonna ask if that was the reason but figured you'd think I was joking.

Teach your boys from your gut and you can't go wrong, we do have to pick our battles carefully.

Truth be told I could use some of that hair top side myself, maybe I'm just jealous and really didn't watch Full Metal Jacket too many times.

getsome
05-22-2012, 04:25 PM
I will agree that cleaning and priming are easy but you CAN get it wrong...I started out priming using my Redding press but had some failure to go boom and couldn't figure it out but after Bawanna and other good folks here recommended that I buy a Lee hand primer tool and use that the problem went away...

Here is what was happening...the primer looked to be seated good and I could feel it was below the case rim but it really wasn't all the way to the bottom of the case primer hole and when I would shoot the .44 loads in my S&W 629 I got good primer strikes but no boom because much of he force of the hammer was used up driving the primer the rest of the way in...

I highly recommend a Lee tool and now see RCBS has one out too which may be the way to go because with the Lee tool you have to buy the shell holders separately but even then they are pretty cheap for a whole pistol set...With a hand tool you can reall feel the primer hit bottom and be sure its done right and since using it I have had no more failure to boom...

Another thing I learned here was to ALWAYS use latex gloves when touching primers as they are very sensitive to skin oils and acid so wear gloves to be sure to avoid this...

For a new reloader it seems like there is so much to learn but it really isn't rocket surgery and after a while you will wonder why you thought it was...
I load for .38 .44 .45 ACP and .45 Long Colt so I settled on using just one powder, Universal Clays or simply Universal as it's called in the books...It works for all the above calibers as well as 9mm .380 and so on and is why it's named Universal...It may not be the absolute best powder for each caliber but it works good enough for range work and since I only have one powder to worry about there is no chance of mixing it up with something else....I follow the KISS method (keep it simple stupid) and it works best for me...

My Redding single stage kit didn't come with a powder measure so I had to buy it separately but it is a necessary tool...Some kits have them and some don't but you need one as trying to measure with a dipper will drive you nuts and is super slow so be sure you have a good powder measure...

A case tumbler is a good investment and makes it real easy to clean cases while doing something else...Buy the media at a pet store or Walmart in the pet section sold as lizzard bedding and it is much cheaper than the stuff you buy at a gun shop, it's only ground up walnut shells or corncob... Another tool I wouldn't load without is a digital scale...Mine is a little RCBS but it works fine for me and makes it easier to double check the manual lever scale that came with my kit....You don't need the most expensive scale they will want to sell you...

The last thing you will need and believe me you will use is a bullet puller plastic hammer tool...they are cheap and there are times when you will need to take apart ammo if you think you made a mistake with powder weight or used the wrong powder (again KISS works for me)...

Thats about it and it seems overwhelming but it really isn't after you get the hang of it and truth is I enjoy reloading as much as shooting....Another truth is you don't save all that much money because you will find yourself shooting more cause you can....Let us know how you like it PitandKahr and good luck!!!

pitandkahr
05-22-2012, 05:32 PM
Thank you getsome for your kind and informative reply...

I'm really excited to start, but have the first load jitters...I've tried to find someone to watch beside looking at videos but haven't succeeded...Thus, I'm just gonna go for it when my bullets and brass arrive...

The only thing I probably need is the bullet puller tool...

I'm also figuring out how to make my table...I saw one that was portable from a thread here and want to make it workable in my chaotic house...

Thanks again for your encouraging words...I know I'm not gonna save $$ but I know I will be able to shoot more hopefully... LOL :)

houdini
05-22-2012, 05:41 PM
buy a dillon

pitandkahr
05-22-2012, 05:43 PM
buy a dillon

That was my next choice besides an RCBS...However, Hornady was the choice because they have the annual promotion where you buy the kit and get 500 rounds free...Get the die set and another 100 rounds...So I got the kit and die set and 600 rounds for free...If that wasn't happening it would have been a hard choice besides BLUE OR GREEN...LOL

Bawanna
05-22-2012, 05:44 PM
When building your table (I prefer bench but it is what it is) rock solid is best.
Nice to anchor to a wall or the floor. I did both. I have a slab on grade in my man cave so I ran steel down next to the press. This holds it solid on the handle up movement and provides strength on the down swing as well.

Can't be too solid, more is better.

I'll try to remember and look when I get home, I had a brand new spare one of those hammer pullers. I might have sent it to Old Lincoln when I sent some spare loading stuff I had but I don't remember that for sure.

If I still got it I'll contribute to your new habit, I mean hobby.

pitandkahr
05-22-2012, 05:53 PM
I'll try to remember and look when I get home, I had a brand new spare one of those hammer pullers. I might have sent it to Old Lincoln when I sent some spare loading stuff I had but I don't remember that for sure.

If I still got it I'll contribute to your new habit, I mean hobby.

Thank you so much!! The gesture is greatly appreciated.


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WV460hunter
09-05-2022, 09:50 PM
I personally like to get dies from whoever first started manufacturing the particular round I am loading. HowevercI would say Lee is cheapest , Hornady and RCBS mote expensive but better grade by far. IMHO