Strip and lube lowers?

[godan]

After research and testing, this is probably the last place to ask specific questions before I buy one of the two concealable Kahr 9's. If this has been covered, my search did not find it. Detail strip instructions for the lowers are available on the web and in print, and the process does not seem daunting. However, taking handguns apart unnecessarily is a bad idea. The stickies in the Tech section seem only to cover the slides. After tens of thousand of rounds through Glocks, I know that polymer lowers can require very little lube, but do Kahrs need none? How do those of you with high round counts handle cleaning and lubing lowers, and how often, if ever, do you detail strip them?

[jocko]

just my opinion but taking apart the lower of a kahr to clean and lube is the dumbest fokking thing one can do. It is totally unnecessary to do. Every part can be cleaned and lubed without dissassembly. The trigger system can be a reala b!tch to take aprt and get back togethger correctly. IT IS JUST NOT NECESSARY . The reason why the stickys cover the slides is that is all that is needed to clean this gun. It is a simple procedcure to do so even. Polymer itself needs very little lube, kahrs are no different, but where metal to metal makes contact some type of lube would be nice. Ur choice is ur choice,

U did say one thing that is correct though....." TAKING HANDGUNS APART UNNECESSARILY IS A BAD IDEA".

[tarheelcm9]

I agree with Jocko that taking down the frame is a biznitch. However, with my CM9 it WAS necessary because I had some really bad burs on my trigger bar that made my trigger feel like it was grinding against a bastard-cut file. The trigger pull is oh-so-sweet now, but it took me a long time to get the trigger back together. These are just small handguns, so the mechanism is really tight in the frame, and just an overall PITA to mess with.

here's a good resource for taking the guns apart

http://www.gunreports.com/special_reports/handguns/Kahr-Pistol-Disassembly184-1.html

its for a P45, but all the mechanisms are the same.

The bottom line is, if you want to do it, it can be done, but if there's no problem with your gun, then don't fuss with it, and just sand what you can with the mechanism intact.

[godan]

Thanks for the replies. Without detail stripping, could you gentlemen expand a bit on how, if at all, you lube the lower? There are some metal to metal contacts, so perhaps a spray cleaner followed by a spray lube...?

[ripley16]

how, if at all, you lube the lower?

I clean the interior of the frame with swabs, Q-tips and rags, either dry or with a drop or two of a normal cleaner. I happen to like Eezox for this. Then, the only parts I lube are pivot points on the trigger assembly. This I do with a needle nose oiler. I do keep the right side trigger bar areas as clean as possible, both inside and outside of the frame. Again a drop of oil on the cam pivot points. "Drop" is the key word here.

That's it, except for the two sets of metal rails that each get a daub of TW25b.

[almalave]

I agree with Jocko that taking down the frame is a biznitch. However, with my CM9 it WAS necessary because I had some really bad burs on my trigger bar that made my trigger feel like it was grinding against a bastard-cut file. The trigger pull is oh-so-sweet now, but it took me a long time to get the trigger back together. These are just small handguns, so the mechanism is really tight in the frame, and just an overall PITA to mess with.

here's a good resource for taking the guns apart

http://www.gunreports.com/special_reports/handguns/Kahr-Pistol-Disassembly184-1.html

its for a P45, but all the mechanisms are the same.

The bottom line is, if you want to do it, it can be done, but if there's no problem with your gun, then don't fuss with it, and just sand what you can with the mechanism intact.

THE same thing happened to me so I polished the trigger bar once it was out. Now it's really smooth.
I did not want to strip the lower but I noticed there was rust on the trigger pin and in the magazine release button so I took it all apart. That was a month ago, and I just noticed rust again on the sides of the magazine release. It sucks because you really have to be patient in order to put the trigger back together.



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[muggsy]

Anything more than field stripping your Kahr can void your warranty. Unless you are an experienced gunsmith disassembly of the lower should not be attempted. If you are the typical ham handed, jack leg, amateur gunsmith with ten thumbs, disassemble of the upper should be left to the experts. More fine firearms have been ruined at the hands idiots than by any other method. To quote a famous gun sage, "Just sayin".

[jocko]

I agree with Jocko that taking down the frame is a biznitch. However, with my CM9 it WAS necessary because I had some really bad burs on my trigger bar that made my trigger feel like it was grinding against a bastard-cut file. The trigger pull is oh-so-sweet now, but it took me a long time to get the trigger back together. These are just small handguns, so the mechanism is really tight in the frame, and just an overall PITA to mess with.

here's a good resource for taking the guns apart

http://www.gunreports.com/special_reports/handguns/Kahr-Pistol-Disassembly184-1.html

its for a P45, but all the mechanisms are the same.

The bottom line is, if you want to do it, it can be done, but if there's no problem with your gun, then don't fuss with it, and just sand what you can with the mechanism intact.

try to disagree with what u did either for u fixed ur issue, BUT u did not know when u tore it down if it was a fixable issue or not either, or that it was even where u figured it was. and u even admitted getting it back together was a total b!tch. Some here can do it, most who can even just don't do it. Screw with it visibly and kahr see's it and ur warranty is void. Everything in the lower can be spray cleaned and spray lubed with ease. It doesn't need much lube there ayway but some of these spray lubes that dry fast are very good, as they are not gummy.

take the upper slide apart for some is trying but we have great slide dissassembly tutorials on the kahr tech section and it is very easy to do, Ur not hamering and banging anything to get it in or ouot like u ar eon a kahr lower. I still stick with my comment that if you have a lower issue, LET KAHR fix it. Most burrs on the trigger bar can be smoothed out without taking the entire lower apart, no doubt witht he triger bar in ur hand u can smooth virtully every area on that bar to a mirror finish to, but 80$ of that trigger bar makes no contact with anything. anyway just my two cents, one just needs to know that going to far with ones gun and u can void ur warranty. Not that I can honeslty say I have heard that happen either, but I think I cvan maybe count on one hand the people on this forum who have taken ther lower compeltely down and we hav eover 10K members. Just sayin.

[Tinman507]

To quote a famous gun sage, "Just sayin".

This famous gun sage?
http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o542/tinman507/JohnBrowning.jpg

[jocko]

I stillhave hair fokker!!!! Just sayin but I am left handed.

[tarheelcm9]

try to disagree with what u did either for u fixed ur issue, BUT u did not know when u tore it down if it was a fixable issue or not either, or that it was even where u figured it was. and u even admitted getting it back together was a total b!tch. Some here can do it, most who can even just don't do it. Screw with it visibly and kahr see's it and ur warranty is void. Everything in the lower can be spray cleaned and spray lubed with ease. It doesn't need much lube there ayway but some of these spray lubes that dry fast are very good, as they are not gummy.

take the upper slide apart for some is trying but we have great slide dissassembly tutorials on the kahr tech section and it is very easy to do, Ur not hamering and banging anything to get it in or ouot like u ar eon a kahr lower. I still stick with my comment that if you have a lower issue, LET KAHR fix it. Most burrs on the trigger bar can be smoothed out without taking the entire lower apart, no doubt witht he triger bar in ur hand u can smooth virtully every area on that bar to a mirror finish to, but 80$ of that trigger bar makes no contact with anything. anyway just my two cents, one just needs to know that going to far with ones gun and u can void ur warranty. Not that I can honeslty say I have heard that happen either, but I think I cvan maybe count on one hand the people on this forum who have taken ther lower compeltely down and we hav eover 10K members. Just sayin.

I did know where it was jocko, I could see the burs on the inside portion of the trigger bar where the trigger bar spring rides. The only reason I took it apart was because 1. I like taking my guns apart and 2. Why send it back to Kahr and wait 3-4 weeks AND probably pay shipping when I can do the same thing they would do myself in a matter of 2 days.

I just wish Kahr spent as much time polishing the other parts on their guns as they do their feed ramps. But then again, my CM9 wouldn't have cost $400 either...

[jocko]

u just got a ruff trigger bar 99% are not like that . same trigger bar in the cm9 as in the PM9, sh!t happens. U did well on it. Most I do feel have no business doing what u did..

[Tinman507]

The Sainted John Moses "Jocko" Browning?

[kerby9mm]

As far as being the dumbest thing to do that would apply to me due to my lack of mechanical ability. Obviously not dumb for you to do,some people can just do things that others can't. Maybe that's what Jocko was just sayin.

[Jeff00042]

Jocko: Is it time to have you wormed again?

Jeff

[yqtszhj]

Thanks for the replies. Without detail stripping, could you gentlemen expand a bit on how, if at all, you lube the lower? There are some metal to metal contacts, so perhaps a spray cleaner followed by a spray lube...?

When my Kahr's lowers (trigger area) are running good but really gunked up and maybe a little gritty, I have used a bit of powder blast to clean out everything I couldn't get normally around the trigger and the trigger bar. Then make sure it dry's out good, and place a 1/2 drop of oil or grease to lube it back up and prevent any possible rust. Then I dry with a q-tip anything that doesn't soak into the cracks and crevices so it doesn't get all over me.

Then I'm good for another several hundred rounds. Hope this answers your inital question.

[yqtszhj]

I did know where it was jocko, I could see the burs on the inside portion of the trigger bar where the trigger bar spring rides. The only reason I took it apart was because 1. I like taking my guns apart and 2. Why send it back to Kahr and wait 3-4 weeks AND probably pay shipping when I can do the same thing they would do myself in a matter of 2 days.

I just wish Kahr spent as much time polishing the other parts on their guns as they do their feed ramps. But then again, my CM9 wouldn't have cost $400 either...


u just got a ruff trigger bar 99% are not like that . same trigger bar in the cm9 as in the PM9, sh!t happens. U did well on it. Most I do feel have no business doing what u did..

I'll jump in since I was probably the most recent person to stir up the lower issue. I agree with Tarheel AND Jocko. I experienced tarheel's exact same issue plus some, and I totally agree with Jocko's opinion on don't do the do it yourself method. I did it myself at my own risk. Kahr would have probably done it for free had I been patient.

I would feel bad if someone attempted it based on my statements and it didn't go well for them so I'll post this:

!! WARNING! Proceed with any disassembly at your own risk. It may not go well !!!

Mine went OK but that might not be the same for the next person. Just think about it. You may have nothing when you are done. Consider giving Kahr an opportunity to fix it.

[jocko]

as know with alitlte trial and error it can be smoothed right on the gun itself.

It is odd thought that alot of people accept glocks trigger that grabs at will it seems. MY M & P trigger was just pitiful Dave Bowie took care of that though. Not sure Smith would have taken care of it as thegun shot great and worked OK,just was not what I expected. 99% of kahrs triggers are perfect out of the box that 1% can be fixed normally by the owner with te help of this forum and last resort is that kahr will fix it althogth they might not pay to ship it back on their dime for something like that.

U won't believe this crap but I when I bought y PM9 made reservations with Cylinder and slide for soe serious cusotm work on my PM9. I wainted 7 months to even getit in and paid them over a grand for the work that they did and when I got the gun back, it wouldnot work. I called C & S and they picked up the gun and sent it back and again it wouldnot work. I sent it to kahr with my complete sefvice work done by C & S (as u know kahr use dtoshow soe C & S guns ad recommended them even) anyway, kahr put the gun back together corretly and toldme the trigger system was never reinstalled correctly, so what Ytgzhi is saying is very true, even the bestof the best fokk up.

Most wasted !k of money I ever spent was with cylinder and slide on my PM9, let alone the frustration of sending it back twice to NEVER get right. It happens.

[kerby9mm]

That is not the first complaint about C&S. I would not send my gun there for the simplest mod.

[yqtszhj]

I have a hard time trusting anyone to work on anything of mine, not just guns. Too many times I end up more disappointed than satisfied with the results. I manage people all week long at work and am subject to deal with work stuff all weekend too but at least I'm getting paid for it.

I just don't have the patience to supervise people when I'm paying them good money to do something right the first time. At times I can get real matter of fact about it with them too. The wife tells me I'm a control freak. I just may be. She says I need to relax because the people I pay should know about things they are working on. I agree they should so why are they messing up when they work on mine??? :32:

On a side note, I am VERY SATISFIED with my Kahr's overall. The only gun that I have with a smoother trigger is a stainless Ruger Mark III hunter in .22 that has what feels like a 2 stage trigger. The trigger break is like glass and I would bet it breaks at 2.5 pounds. I paid a lot of money for that .22 though and the daughter has already claimed it as hers.