No Loctite for Plastic use

[wyntrout]

Hi. I was checking with the Loctite Site to see what Loctite I should use on my shotgun screws. There are three "color-coded" varieties for different applications. All three advise against using on plastic.:ohmy:

Loctite info:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/techdata-msds.shtml

From the technical info, it seems that the Green variety is the best for guns, with respect to the screw sizes involved. All three varieties are NOT recommended for use on plastic.

I include the 3-page info on the "Green" version and the front or first of 3 for Blue and Red. Those are for larger screws and bolts and require high heat (the RED ~ 500°F) to remove.:eek: Those removal instructions are on the second and third pages, not shown. Blue removal is similar to the Green.

I think you can use the Red on the recoil spring assembly flange, as Jocko has done, because that part can be heated to about 500°F to break the bond. Note that this is considered a "PERMANENT" seal, though.

That plumbing anti-seizure stuff with teflon that I listed might be okay, but it's kind of large textured for use with tiny screws. Just remember not to over tighten the screws... finger tight with just the bit, maybe.

http://kahrtalk.com/p-cw-series-pistols/2774-new-380-same-issues-2.html#post29777

Don't shoot the messenger... just passing along information that I thought might be of interest.:behindsofa:

Wynn:D

[RogerP9fan]

I'll make a note, as always Wynn, very helpful.

[wyntrout]

I wanted to make sure that I was using the correct stuff for my shotgun screws and all that was available at Wally World was the Blue. It sure didn't seem appropriate for 3mm fine-threaded screws. The plastic "warning" is a big :eek: for Tupperware Kahrs!
If those parts were cleaned real well, there might be a "permanent" seal or bond that will be problematic if a new spring is needed for the slide lock.
Wynn:o

[jocko]

Hi. I was checking with the Loctite Site to see what Loctite I should use on my shotgun screws. There are three "color-coded" varieties for different applications. All three advise against using on plastic.
From the technical info, it seems that the Green variety is the best for guns, with respect to the screw sizes involved. All three varieties are NOT recommended for use on plastic.

I include the 3-page info on the "Green" version and the front or first of 3 for Blue and Red. Those are for larger screws and bolts and require high heat (the RED ~ 500°F) to remove.:eek: Those removal instructions are on the second and third pages, not shown. Blue removal is similar to the Green.

I think you can use the Red on the recoil spring assembly flange, as Jocko has done, because that part can be heated to about 500°F to break the bond. Note that this is considered a "PERMANENT" seal, though.

That plumbing anti-seizure stuff with teflon that I listed might be okay, but it's kind of large textured for use with tiny screws. Just remember not to over tighten the screws... finger tight with just the bit, maybe.

http://kahrtalk.com/p-cw-series-pistols/2774-new-380-same-issues-2.html#post29777

Don't shoot the messenger... just passing along information that I thought might be of interest.:behindsofa:

Wynn:D

the green is the weakest of allthe locktites, and is recommended for gun smith work. If you buy a locktite at a gun shop, normaly it willbe the green version. I have siad befoere that I was told that locktite just doesnt do the job (or work) on plastic applications. I never had any luck with steel into polymer aided with any locktite. crazy glue would do much better IMO> nice report wyn.

[wyntrout]

Thanks, Jocko. I run across stuff like this and try to get it out here for everyone. I know a few guys used this on the slide lock spring retainer screw. That might be a problem if they need new springs.:(

I'm going to make a thread on monsterfastener.com about their products, especially screws that gun owners might need. They are fast and have pictures to help you find the right part. Cheap, too, if you don't want to pay $2 to $4 for one or a pair of freaking screws!

Wynn:D

[jlottmc]

I usually just put a bit of torque and break the seal with loc-tite. Good stuff either way, I think I just figured out why it is my best friend, and why it worked ok at best on plastics when I've done it before. No more on plastics now. As for removing a treated screw, I never tried heating one before.

[wyntrout]

I usually just put a bit of torque and break the seal with loc-tite. Good stuff either way, I think I just figured out why it is my best friend, and why it worked ok at best on plastics when I've done it before. No more on plastics now. As for removing a treated screw, I never tried heating one before.

Torque would be a big problem with plastic as the bond is like crazy glue and molecular. Some of those BONDS are considered PERMANENT.

I could only find Permatex locally and the "penetrating" green version of it is STRONGER and HARDER to remove... requiring more torque AND/OR HEAT upto 500°F! :eek:
Wynn:D

[jlottmc]

Ok then none of that in the slide stop spring hole...

[jocko]

If one has stripped that little screw tha tholds the slide stop springin place tothe point that allis does is turn and turn, then IMO you hve but two choices. #. Crazy glue the sucker in and dont go near that area again. #2 send it back to kahr and see what they come up with. tome that is a real weak point in the polymer kahrs. that little screw has such fine threads on it that there isjust no way one can pretend to tighten that screw into polymer. So again if it ain't broke leave it alone. Ifyou take care of that area, you should nothav eto replace that little spring either. I still have my original in my PM9 with over 30,000 runds through it.. That little screw should IMO screw into a metal insert and not polymer, but again we sure don't read of any reall issues in this area to, so I guess all is well if u leave that area ALONE..

[Jim K]

Loctite MS222 (Purple) for screws smaller than 1/4". Low strength, removable, don't have to heat it. Like a nylon lock nut for small screws.

Works great on eye glasses and scope mounts.

Not for plastic but great for small metal screws into metal threads.

Even works on lawn mowers if that is the extent of your tech savy.

Jim K

[Seahawk60]

I thought it was common knowledge that METAL thread locker would melt plastics. Clear nail polish works extremely well with plastics/polymers and will "break free" without much fuss. However, do NOT use nail polish remover on it to remove. :eek:

[wyntrout]

Bump for re-posting information. See first post!

Wynn:)

[jocko]

purple locktite foundat most gun shops IMO is the perfect thread locker for small screws.It will hold and it will break free easily..

[Tilos]

+1 nail polish
low tech answer, 'cept I use colored, not clear, so I know it's there.
Sometimes just a dab that flows around the head of a screw already installed is all you will need.
Works for eyeglass screws too:D

[jocko]

never thought of the color stuff. great idea. Bawanna sent me a bottle of pink nail polish that he uses on his nails,
Revlon brand if i ain['tmistaken.

He's into pink alot.

[gulfwarvet]

+1 -- I have found that purple is recommended most by scope / mount dealers for use on firearms.

[RRP]

Nail polish = Locktite Lite.

Don't let your wife see you using it.

[CJB]

If one has stripped that little screw

I think I'd try good ol Accraglass in the hole, maybe reinforced with atomized stuff (your choice).

Just sayin... its workable, not the end of the world.