Cerakote a "Beater" or not?

[BirdsThaWord]

I just aquired a well carried, not so loved officer/compact 1911 Iver Johnson Thrasher. I once had the ss version, which I polished the snot out of, that I had enjoyed thoroughly and regretted getting rid of. So I got this carbon framed/slide version on the cheap (traded a Shield I had $275 into) due to it's appearance. It does run well though, with the box I ran through it.
So here's my question...I normally would only buy a "rough" gun if it were all stainless or stainless/alloy as I can restore those myself, but again the deal made me jump on this one. Should I spend a bit having it proffesionally cerakoted, knowing I'll then have more in it than it's ever going to be worth, or just try to abate oxidation and keep it as a "beater". I do like the idea of having so little into it, but also do like purtying them up. What would you do?

[Bawanna]

Doesn't look all that bad to me, I never heard of those but it looks good. I think if it was at my house (where it would be most welcome) I'd leave it as is.

[gb6491]

You might try hitting it with a good cold blue.
I bought a slightly trashed TRP with the thought to refinish it, but after wiping it down with a cold blue found that I could live with the results:
https://s22.postimg.cc/bjm2vj9bl/trp1_copy1000.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

There are quite a few spray on finishes that are DIY friendly. Some (like Cerakote) require require baking to cure, others air cure (Duracoat comes in a two part rattle can).
I used Wheeler Cerama Coat on the frame of this P229 (painting right over the anodized finish):
http://i30.tinypic.com/21lu77t.jpg

You could also rust blue it.
For rust blue I use this: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/express-blue-1-prod8795.aspx
This Handi Rifle's receiver was done with it:
http://i40.tinypic.com/4lli0z.jpg

Personally, I'd abrasive blast then parkerize it.
I've gotten good results with parkerizing solution from https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/collections/parkerizing
This Colt was done with it:
http://i43.tinypic.com/3344qr5.jpg

Regards,
Greg

[BirdsThaWord]

Doesn't look all that bad to me, I never heard of those but it looks good. I think if it was at my house (where it would be most welcome) I'd leave it as is.

Well thanks for that input! Just fyi, they are a SAM (Phillipines) manufactured gun, not unlike ATI, Rock Island, etc etc. Considered to be of a bit better fit & finish than the other "Phillipino's", hence some being closer to Colt Defender prices than their counter parts. As with others, they do require a Colt or Kimber recoil assembly pretty early on as the flange part of the guide rods are known to beat themselves up rather quickly. I did get 600 rounds out of that first Thrasher though before noticing it was due to fail. Thanks again man!

[BirdsThaWord]

You might try hitting it with a good cold blue.
I bought a slightly trashed TRP with the thought to refinish it, but after wiping it down with a cold blue found that I could live with the results:
https://s22.postimg.cc/bjm2vj9bl/trp1_copy1000.jpg (https://postimages.org/)


There are quite a few spray on finishes that are DIY friendly. Some (like Cerakote) require require baking to cure, others air cure (Duracoat comes in a two part rattle can).
I used Wheeler Cerama Coat on the frame of this P229 (painting right over the anodized finish):
http://i30.tinypic.com/21lu77t.jpg

You could also rust blue it.
For rust blue I use this: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/express-blue-1-prod8795.aspx
This Handi Rifle's receiver was done with it:
http://i40.tinypic.com/4lli0z.jpg

Personally, I'd abrasive blast then parkerize it.
I've gotten good results with parkerizing solution from https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/collections/parkerizing
This Colt was done with it:
http://i43.tinypic.com/3344qr5.jpg

Regards,
Greg

WOW Greg!!! Just WOW! You just opened up a whole new world for me. I looked at that rust blue's instructions and sounds like something even my dumb self can accomplish. All of the one's you've done look great, but seeing the Handi and now knowing whats involved has me wanting to jump in. Never knew that stuff existed! Mucho Gracias!!!

[yqtszhj]

You might try hitting it with a good cold blue.
I bought a slightly trashed TRP with the thought to refinish it, but after wiping it down with a cold blue found that I could live with the results:
https://s22.postimg.cc/bjm2vj9bl/trp1_copy1000.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

There are quite a few spray on finishes that are DIY friendly. Some (like Cerakote) require require baking to cure, others air cure (Duracoat comes in a two part rattle can).
I used Wheeler Cerama Coat on the frame of this P229 (painting right over the anodized finish):
http://i30.tinypic.com/21lu77t.jpg

You could also rust blue it.
For rust blue I use this: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/express-blue-1-prod8795.aspx
This Handi Rifle's receiver was done with it:
http://i40.tinypic.com/4lli0z.jpg

Personally, I'd abrasive blast then parkerize it.
I've gotten good results with parkerizing solution from https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/collections/parkerizing
This Colt was done with it:
http://i43.tinypic.com/3344qr5.jpg

Regards,
Greg

Your work always ways turns out real nice. I think that’s 2 parkerizing jobs you’ve show, one on a RIA 1911 I think. That blue to black EAA was nice too.

[Bawanna]

That Colt sings! They all turned out super nice, no surprise there.

I got some of the parkerizing solution you recommended, still working on a blasting setup. Kind of on a back burner for the moment.

[BirdsThaWord]

What medium would you guys blast with? I un-cerakoted a M&P one time to polish and man was it rough! Looked like the p.o. had blasted it with steel shot! Once the cerakote top layers were off, I found orange underneath. (Dumb dumb put so many layers on that it would not even chamber a round. The extractor would not budge, so it wouldn't slip around the casing.) My geuss was he used auto body filler to fill in the craters he made. That slide took me longer to polish than any gun I've ever done! I know with cars the good guys use stuff like walnut shells. What about on a gun?

[Bawanna]

I'll have to defer to Greg or others as I've not done much blasting yet. I did a High Power that apparently was coated and once the coating got blasted the original finish was not bad at all so I just stopped.
I didn't have a proper cabinet and the blast gun I think was a piece of junk. It worked for that one but what a mess.
Goggles and face shield for sure if you don't got a proper cabinet.

[leftysixty]

Walnut shells are good, glass beads work well, both should be used in a blast box! Places like Harbor Freight have small, inexpensive versions. Given a small air compressor, a small oven, airbrush, and small spray gun you will be able to do all kinds of small polishing/refinishing projects!

PS,
I've been doing this kind of stuff for 'bout 60 years now! Enjoy your projects!

[BirdsThaWord]

Walnut shells are good, glass beads work well, both should be used in a blast box! Places like Harbor Freight have small, inexpensive versions. Given a small air compressor, a small oven, airbrush, and small spray gun you will be able to do all kinds of small polishing/refinishing projects!

PS,
I've been doing this kind of stuff for 'bout 60 years now! Enjoy your projects!
Thanks leftysixty! I love me some Harbor Freight! I've got everything but a box. I did a frame on restoration of a '69 Vette (in a .8 car garage...TINY) and still have that stuff left over. Can't wait to do this one. Thanks again!

[gb6491]

I mostly use 70 grit black aluminum oxide and #8 glass bead. The 70 grit worked well to remove a hard paint from my buddy's Walther PP slide.
Regards,
Greg

[RustyIron]

Should I spend a bit having it proffesionally cerakoted, knowing I'll then have more in it than it's ever going to be worth, or just try to abate oxidation and keep it as a "beater".

I bought a new Rock Island years go, just because I was curious and it was cheap. I didn't like it as much as a GOOD 1911, so I did a trigger job, added an ambidextrous safety, and milled it for Truglo's. When I was done, I had a well-polished turd. The time and money I threw at it was a waste, because I still don't like the gun.

I wouldn't throw a lot of cash at your Iver Johnson. But, there are some inexpensive options to spiffy it up, if you're willing to do the work. Regardless of what you choose, you'll have to get rid of the existing bluing, take out the dings, and polish the surfaces. Parkerizing is really cheap and easy. It's like cooking a pot of Top Ramen on the stove. Easy peasy. I've also played with Duracoat. It's a two-part spray that comes in a rattle can. My one job looks very good. I don't treat it rough, so I don't know how durable it is.

[Bawanna]

How can one not love a 1911? I know a few that love their Rocks.

[gb6491]

How can one not love a 1911? I know a few that love their Rocks.
I'm one of those (though mine is a 9):
https://s22.postimg.cc/g41vf1n1d/RIA_9mm800.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
Regards,
Greg

[BirdsThaWord]

Greg, I will follow your lead sir! Given the pics you showed me, I would be a dumb dumb not to! Thanks!

[BirdsThaWord]

Greg: Other than a Kimber and that IJ all of mine are 9's. I love 'em!!!! I can also double tap with them and hit somewhat close, but not with a .45.

[BirdsThaWord]

RustyIron: Ifeel you! When I just started into guns I overspent as well. These days, about 90% of what I ever do is finish work (polishing). I'll buy sights, grips, triggers, etc, but only if I got a steal of a deal on the gun. It's so easy to go overboard though!!!! Greg just opened up a new world for me though. The finish he showed me, and how simple the instructions, makes for something I've got to do. It will be a while, but I will definitely post results as I get it underway.