Striker channel clean out hole-Type of spray to use?

[cgarcop]

Hello all.
Been reading this forum for a few weeks now and just registered tonight. A lot of good information. I'm the proud new owner of a Kahr MK9 and have been going over the prep thread and lube diagram.

My question is what type of cleaning spray should be used to clean out the striker channel ? I have Rem Oil spray. It says it cleans AND lubes but am concerned about the lube that stays behind acting as a grime and dust magnet.

Am I being overly cautious or is there a better cleaning spray to use ?

Apologies if this has been discussed before. I've been bouncing back and forth among all the sub forums here and I could have easily missed it.

[Jim K]

Nonchlorinated brake cleaner. Do not use the chlorinated kind. Don't lube the striker channel.

BTW, if you get the chlorinated stuff around a flame you get phosgene gas. Phosgene is a chemical weapon, don't use on yourself. Danger Wil Robinson!

[scumhunter]

Wow, a Will Robinson reference? Good to know I'm not the only old fart here.

[jocko]

Hello all.
Been reading this forum for a few weeks now and just registered tonight. A lot of good information. I'm the proud new owner of a Kahr MK9 and have been going over the prep thread and lube diagram.

My question is what type of cleaning spray should be used to clean out the striker channel ? I have Rem Oil spray. It says it cleans AND lubes but am concerned about the lube that stays behind acting as a grime and dust magnet.

Am I being overly cautious or is there a better cleaning spray to use ?

Apologies if this has been discussed before. I've been bouncing back and forth among all the sub forums here and I could have easily missed it.

there are some good spray cleaners out there, Gun Scrubber is one of them. It is very expensive IMO but good stuff.

If you wantto use the same damn thing as Gunscrubber nly for around $3 a can do this.

Go to NAPA and look for #m (black can) high pressure non cholorinated brake cleaner. # 08880. this stuff is simply the best and I canassure you the most pwoerful spray cleaner you willever buy in a can to. It will blow any and all crapola out of the striker channel or any place in the lower grip area also. It will not harm polymer what so ever.

If you read the propper preping of your new kahr thread it will tell you how to clean that striker channel without disassembly.

This 3M cleaner has no oils in it. It is simply a cleaner, so it will take any and all oils off of the metal or polymer surfaces. I would advise putting on rubber gloves for like any good cleaning solvent, it will take the oil out of your skin also and you will have dried hands. Just error on the side of caution. I put on gloves when I used Gun scrubber to, for it will do the same thing. About the only difference in Gun Scrubber except the exhorbinate price is I think they put some smelley sh-t in the can to make you feel good about getting ripped off with the price.

Keep the striker channel dry, Oil will gather crapola and u don''t want that. That little clean out hole on the bottom of the slide is there for your use, Every time you clean your gun, just insert your spray nozzle in there and spray away. It will keep that channel clean, that I can guarantee you.

What Jim K is dead on, never buy any sprays that are cholorinated. Actually I think most of that stuff is long gone to, it was dangerous let alone breathingit. Every can today will tell you if it is non cholorinated...You got a darn nice kahr there, now just shoot it like u stole it. Welcome to the forum.

If you have not read the two good threads go to the kahr tech section and it on

Kahr lube chart. simply the best

Propper prepping of your new kahr, might save yo some head aches to.

[DasFriek]

I spray mine out with clp which will dry in a day or two and leave a film, But i find it doesn't leave any gunk when i go to clean the gun after 150-200 rounds. I never use anything but gun marketed cleaners and oils except Mobil1 synthetic oil once in a while.
Even then i only use a solvent (Hoppes 9) on my bore when i scrub it with a brush which i do every 2-3 cleanings as its not always necessary.
CLP will clean everything else just as good as a solvent imo.

Ive seen all manufacturers say not to lube the firing pin channel and im sure its due to them feeling it will gunk the channel up with repeated use and no cleaning.
But if you clean your gun after every range session ive found no reason not to lube it.
A tri lube that drys seems to work best for me so its not wet and just a film left behind.
But i suggest following the manual as those people do know guns better than me, But this is America so im free to do things my own way when i want.

I find the extractor channel more important to clean than the striker channel.
Im also finding tons of brass shavings in my striker channel which makes no sense as if they are brass shavings from the extractor i can't figure out how they get into the striker channel except that they are connected internally.
Those do build up fast so id be more worried about the build up of those more than crud.

[cgarcop]

Thanks for the replies. I will definately check out all 3 ( gunscrubber, CLP and the #3M brake cleaner )

[earle8888]

Yep Lots of O.F.s, Excessive oil residue can be a real problem in freezing weather, Not a real problem in pocket carry.
BTW, if you really want to see if your barrel is TRULY clean, suggest you use the "Lead Remover" sheets Birchwood and others, cut into patch size, I use a brass brush for good fit, and brush the barrel, clean patch, and repeat until patch is clean. Don't know what the solvent in this material is BUT it remove unseen lead and Gilded metal.

[jocko]

brass shavings IMO are also considered crud. anything that gets into the striker channel without permission is in my opinion crud.

[Tilos]

Welcome cgarcop.

I use CRC spray silicone to clean the striker channel and a lot of other things.
Use it to reduce stiction on the scooter fork tubes too.
Bought at Chinamart.
just sayin'
Tilos

[500KV]

Definitely several good products out there.

I use starting fluid, almost pure ether.
Get it at WW for about $2.50/can and one can will clean several guns.
I scrub them down with mineral spirits and a toothbrush first and then blow that off with the starting fluid.
The ether dries almost immediately and leaves no residue. Then CLP them.

I've used this method on all my guns, both polymer and steel/aluminum for several years with no ill effects.

[DasFriek]

You might want to look at your slide stop. I noticed brass flakes after only 50 rounds in my new CW40 today. Closer inspection showed brass colored residue on the slide stop. A little polishing seems to have reduced contact between the slide stop and incoming rounds, but the next range session will tell the story.

However, I am learning to ignore some things, courtesy of advice from Jocko, and others. Most gun boards are full of "nervous nellies" who worry about every oddity. Not KahrTalk! And, the "don't worry, be happy, mon" approach seems to work with Karh products. It must be the very forgiving design.

Whatever, I like the results a lot! My CW40 has a great trigger and seems 100% reliable with only a little preparation, as described here on KahrTalk. :D

Woops, I almost missed your post and good advice as i never would have tied the two items together. But with the feed channel moved to the side nearer to the slide stop its very possible.
But the odd thing is the shavings only accumulate in the striker channel, Almost like it sucks the flakes into the hole in the breach face.

Ive had the gun out twice now and im in the 450-500 round range and only had one easy stove pipe the last outing with a spent shell jammed empty end up on top of a live round thats half way chambered. The same exact way the previous 2-3 had happened even after a stronger recoil spring.

Its very possibly im limp wristing and if thats the case a heavier spring is the wrong way to go. The more empty my mag gets the shorter the brass flys, The last round usually nails me in the forehead.

I don't see this to be a big issue tho and i truly feel it will work its self out without a trip back to Kahr as the failure rate is around 99.5% reliability.

I always shoot the gun side by side with my 1911's which don't normally have limp wristing issues and shoot softer so i may not be gripping the gun tight enough.

[jocko]

quote:I certainly share your enthusiasm for 1911's! My Dan Wesson CBOB used to nail me the same way. High extractor tension was the main culprit with the CBOB. I wonder if there is any way to ensure that the Kahr's extractor mechanism is operating smoothly and well lubricated

Not really a nee dto take the extractor system down. Kahr has a patent evenon their extractor. they claim that it is self cleaning. One can spray right behind the extractor and cleanout the extractor channel and then always put a drop of light oil behind that extractor and let it creep down inside the extractor channel.

I have over 30,000 rounds through my PM9 and I have never taken the extractor channel apart. My motto is: IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT.

[500KV]

Great suggestion! This might save me a trip to the auto-parts store. Thanks! I'll bet the pressure is greater than CRC Brake Cleaner as well. Right? :)

I wonder if the flakes go everywhere and those that enter the striker channel just manage to stick around better. That's part of the beauty of 500KV's starting fluid suggestion. Ether is a good degreaser that should help eliminate any sticky residue. Admittedly, eliminating the flakes, to the extent possible, is my target. We'll probably know better how the polishing works after upcoming range sessions. :cool:
:o
Don't have any personal experience with the brake cleaner but it should work well.
I strip the slide, extractor, striker etc. in my Kahrs every time I shoot them.
Probably overkill but It only takes me an extra 5 min. maybe and I kinda' enjoy fooling with them.

I do the same with all my guns after I shoot them (bet my old 1st Sgt would be proud).

I've also found that pipe cleaners work well to clean the extractor channels and Qtips work for the striker/firing pin channels.
All this extra cleaning is obviously not totally necessary but we all develop habits over time I suppose. These are just some of mine. :)

[ricklee4570]

there are some good spray cleaners out there, Gun Scrubber is one of them. It is very expensive IMO but good stuff.

If you wantto use the same damn thing as Gunscrubber nly for around $3 a can do this.

Go to NAPA and look for #m (black can) high pressure non cholorinated brake cleaner. # 08880. this stuff is simply the best and I canassure you the most pwoerful spray cleaner you willever buy in a can to. It will blow any and all crapola out of the striker channel or any place in the lower grip area also. It will not harm polymer what so ever.

If you read the propper preping of your new kahr thread it will tell you how to clean that striker channel without disassembly.

This 3M cleaner has no oils in it. It is simply a cleaner, so it will take any and all oils off of the metal or polymer surfaces. I would advise putting on rubber gloves for like any good cleaning solvent, it will take the oil out of your skin also and you will have dried hands. Just error on the side of caution. I put on gloves when I used Gun scrubber to, for it will do the same thing. About the only difference in Gun Scrubber except the exhorbinate price is I think they put some smelley sh-t in the can to make you feel good about getting ripped off with the price.

Keep the striker channel dry, Oil will gather crapola and u don''t want that. That little clean out hole on the bottom of the slide is there for your use, Every time you clean your gun, just insert your spray nozzle in there and spray away. It will keep that channel clean, that I can guarantee you.

What Jim K is dead on, never buy any sprays that are cholorinated. Actually I think most of that stuff is long gone to, it was dangerous let alone breathingit. Every can today will tell you if it is non cholorinated...You got a darn nice kahr there, now just shoot it like u stole it. Welcome to the forum.

If you have not read the two good threads go to the kahr tech section and it on

Kahr lube chart. simply the best

Propper prepping of your new kahr, might save yo some head aches to.

What type of gloves do you use? I tried some latex gloves and they literally melted away when the spray got on them!

[jocko]

mine never have I just buy those boxes of 100 gloves at wal mart.

PS. just went out and checked. They are vinyl disposable exam gloves by ANSELL bought at wal mart. 3M doesn't touch that stuff at all, nore does my Hoppe'
s #9 or that Brownlell bore paste.

[BuckeyeBlast]

Ballistol is good stuff too.

[ricklee4570]

mine never have I just buy those boxes of 100 gloves at wal mart.

PS. just went out and checked. They are vinyl disposable exam gloves by ANSELL bought at wal mart. 3M doesn't touch that stuff at all, nore does my Hoppe'
s #9 or that Brownlell bore paste.

Thank you sir, thats what I needed to know!

[jocko]

i think the word vinyl makes it a go. mayube "
rubber" is a no no.