Help Needed -- Back Slide Plate Removal

[doctorxring]

.

I got my 5 lb striker spring from Wolff and want to put it in.
I've studied the GlockTalk page on the Kahr and the YouTube disassembly
video many times. I made the wire retractor to hold the striker guide
out of the way. I push on the back of the extractor spring pin, and then push
on the plate but cannot get the back plate to budge. I've tried many times and am at a "WTF"
and a "Cannot believe they make this that hard" moment.

I've thought about trying to wedge a screwdriver blade to get the
plate started, but this seems dang near impossible if you have to
hold that pin down at the same time to do that. I'm also concerned
a bit about marring the slide and back plate if this is not done right.

I would appreciate any tips or helps in getting this done.

thanks kindly, Chris

.

[jocko]

I had to do that to get the plate moving, ur right on track with that thought. It is fitted tight but once off after that it seems better to remove, take your time and be carefulw hen you slip that back plate off as things wantto fly. I have done mine in a big clear zip lock bag. Its a no brainer , just take ur time... ur gonna like that 5# striker spring

[wyntrout]

You have to really push that pin down, then it's fairly easy to slide the back plate, REALIZING that you have TWO strings of stuff that can go flying... striker spring column against the back plate and the extractor column which is pushing the pin up to hold the back plate on.
I use a small jeweler's screwdriver because you need something sturdy and small to hold that pin down. You can hold the slide down, muzzle end on the table and use your thumb of that hand to remove and cover the back of the slide to keep things from flying.

After you've done this a few times, it's not scary at all, but if you're not paying attention, things can go flying. I've been lucky so far, 'cause I've done that a few times. :D

Wynn:yo:

[jocko]

indeed that little hole (slot) on the right side of the plate in the slide , u nee dto push that pin inward to get that back plate to move. Once it starts to move alittle then carefully watch how u take that back plate off so things don;'t go flying. U actually have to compress to sets of springs to get that back plate moving..

[doctorxring]

.

Thanks for the replies guys. So you are saying that IF I push the
extractor spring pin far enough, the back plate should slide out
with thumb pressure ? The back plate is not a "grip" fit,
but slides in and out rather freely, that is without the pressure
from the extractor pin ?

So far, I've done what I thought is what you've said, but I'm going
to try again.

[Bawanna]

Yup what they said. I think I used a stiff little exacto knife blade to start to pry off the back. You just gotta get that plunger pushed completely out of the way. Its a pretty small hole and lots going on.
The little coat hanger is a life saver for sure.

Once you get it once it'll be a piece of cake next time.

[wyntrout]

The pin and the striker assembly are pushing against the plate. Once the retaining pin is pushed in far enough, the only thing left is the pressure from the striker spring assembly on the back of the plate. Don't let either of those things get away from you. Once the back plate is moved clear of the pin, it can go flying if you just release it, and then the striker assembly will go as the back plate clears it. Safety glasses are a good precaution. I have to wear glasses for close work.
I keep forgetting that the striker column is restrained by the homemade "C" clamp, but it can slip.

Wynn:)

[jocko]

ur gun sounds like that back plate might nee dalittle start with some prying onceyou get those two springs compress. U can't even start to try tomove that back palte the slightest until those two springs are compressed. take you time your almost there..

[doctorxring]

.

Eureka !!

Got it off and the striker spring changed out.

I tried again, and looked down and saw a thin edge of space
between the plate and the slide. Just a little shove with a
thin driver blade and I could tell is was going to come off.

I then took it into my "mechanism disassembly room" a.k.a.
the shower stall with the door closed and the drain blocked.
It pushed right off and the change out was easy. The difference
was worth doing this. Some lighter and very smooth now.
And yes, like you said, once done doing it again will be a snap.

THANKS Guys !

Chris


P.S. I just measured the pull and it is 5 lb 4 oz with the
new spring. It was 6 lb 10 oz before.

.

[jocko]

nice job, never thought of the shower thing, that makes alot more sense. I truly think the 5# striker is a big plus for the kahrs. It fits any kahr except the P380 and as u know now it just drops right in.

nice job and once done is a peace of cake. IMO realy no nee dto take that off again if youwant to clean that striker channel area, just use that little clean out hole in the bottom of your slide, It will blow sh-t out of all ends of the striker channel. NO oil there needed, keep it dry.

[wyntrout]

You'll usually need a separate "C" clamp for each Kahr and they are easy to make after the first, when you know what it has to do and whether or not it's the right size to do the job AND stay out of the way with the back plate removal.
I'm glad you got the swap completed... without any OH SH!TS!

Wynn :D

[doctorxring]

.

Thanks Jocko. Yes, I had fired around 200 rounds through the gun on
break-in and used the clean out hole with carburetor cleaner when
I cleaned the pistol. I checked everything when I had the plate of
and it was spotless. This gun is talking to Daddy now !!!

Wyn - I'm sure there would have been some Oh Sheiss if I would
not have had all the help from previous doers of this dead.

:)

I just don't think I was being aggressive enough with the push pin
on the first few tries, hence the failure at the beginning.

.

[wyntrout]

That's what I was trying to emphasize. That pin really needs to be pushed in more than you would think.

Wynn:D

[Shatner]

I know this thread is old, but instead of starting a new one on the same topic I figured I'd bump this one.

I have a Galloway Precision reduced power spring kit on the way for my CW9 but for the life of me I can't get the damn rear plate off of the slide. I've tried every thing suggested here and watched this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi3VFRll2L4) video at least 6 times thinking that I missed something. I know you have to push that pin in on the right side of the plate and have even bent a punch in the process. Are you supposed to feel that pin depress? If so, something is wrong with my CW9 because that pin won't budge.

I've even tried a thin flat head screw driver between the plate serrations, but it's beginning to mar it up which is unacceptable since it's a new gun. I even have a nice flat head shaped puncture in the webbing of my hand between my thumb and index finger.

I'd feel like a complete idiot taking this issue to a gunsmith, although it's looking like I may have to unless someone here has experienced and overcome the same issue. And yes, I know that people in this thread have said it's very difficult the first time. But I've been working on this for several hours yesterday and at least another 2 and a half today.

So wtf is the trick here?

[OldFatGuy]

I know this thread is old, but instead of starting a new one on the same topic I figured I'd bump this one.

I have a Galloway Precision reduced power spring kit on the way for my CW9 but for the life of me I can't get the damn rear plate off of the slide. I've tried every thing suggested here and watched this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi3VFRll2L4) video at least 6 times thinking that I missed something. I know you have to push that pin in on the right side of the plate and have even bent a punch in the process. Are you supposed to feel that pin depress? If so, something is wrong with my CW9 because that pin won't budge.

I've even tried a thin flat head screw driver between the plate serrations, but it's beginning to mar it up which is unacceptable since it's a new gun. I even have a nice flat head shaped puncture in the webbing of my hand between my thumb and index finger.

I'd feel like a complete idiot taking this issue to a gunsmith, although it's looking like I may have to unless someone here has experienced and overcome the same issue. And yes, I know that people in this thread have said it's very difficult the first time. But I've been working on this for several hours yesterday and at least another 2 and a half today.

So wtf is the trick here?


Can you "feel" that pin depress? If not, you're pushing on a ledge of the slide. That's what I did. I had to get a light and my magnifiers and look in that little hole to find the pin, then it was easy.

[ripley16]

Here's what it looks like in pieces. Note the opening to depress the extractor pin in very small.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/ripley16/Kahrextractor004.jpg (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/ripley16/media/Kahrextractor004.jpg.html)

You need a tiny punch or screwdriver to do this. The larger opening is in fact a false opening as you can see from the reverse side of the back plate. The circular shape on the bottom (in this picture) shows the fraction of the circle , (the missing part), where you insert a tool to push on the pin & spring. Sometimes even doing that correctly you may need to pry the plate down a bit to get it started.

[Bobshouse]

Thanks Ripley16..I thought that hole was covered with a leaf spring type cover to depress. I didn't know you had to go in that little space to bypass the cover and was afraid to use a tiny screwdriver.

Looking at it now, the smaller the punch (or screwdriver) the better.

Still haven't broken down my gun that far, but with all the threads indicating bits of metal in there Im really considering it.

Didn't want to use Gunscrubber or brake cleaner because of that plastic guiderod in there. Some of those chemicals melt plastic on contact.

Thanks for the pic!