Quick and dirty new grips

[MW surveyor]

Here's my first set of quick and dirty grips for the new Para. Turned out generally ok, I know I can do better (and have with some others) but did not take a lot of time on these. Less than 2 hours max. Need to figure out some kind of template for the hole drilling or at least get some repeatable accuracy. That or some kind of step drill.

Anyway, here they are. Zebra wood. Not sure if I'm liking these against the stainless.

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l605/MWsurveyor/grips1.jpg

[jocko]

nice work, do u like that Para??

[MW surveyor]

Thanks jocko. So far so good. Only 100 rounds through it so far but no problems to report. The gun does shoot to POA as I did bench rest a few rounds so that I knew it was me and not the gun.

Been waiting all week for my bullets to come in so that I can load up some test loads for it. No joy, still waiting for the bullets. Will probably go to the range later today. Doesn't open until 1300 on Sundays. Don't really like to go on the weekend but I'll be working all week and then go out for another 21 days to Mexico next Sunday. Gotta get the shooting in so I don't Jones while I'm away.

[Bawanna]

Nice. Getting those holes in the right place is a challenge for sure. I think they look good on stainless.

[MW surveyor]

Thanks Bawanna, coming from you that's, aw you know.

If you look real close, you can see that I buggered/misdrilled the bottom screw recess. Gotta be a better way outside of having special bitts made up. Too bad that my machinest neighbor/friend moved. I'd gladly pay him to make up a template and a few step drills!

[TucsonMTB]

Anyway, here they are. Zebra wood. Not sure if I'm liking these against the stainless.

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l605/MWsurveyor/grips1.jpg
I am liking them a lot! Although I prefer stainless 1911's, your earlier pictures with the original grips generated a mental shrug. This combination just looks right. :)

[MW surveyor]

Yea, the black didn't do much for me either. These are kinda growing on me though.

[jlottmc]

There is a better way to get pretty grips (Mesquite looks nice too). Have Bawanna cut you some, they'll come out real purdy.

[TheTman]

They look great MW!

[tractiongrips]

I bought one of these grip screw drills and made my life a lot easier...
http://www.blindhogg.com/forsale.html
I made a drill guide from a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum flat stock I got at Home depot in a 3" wide by 4 feet long piece. I measured the distance between holes, then drilled guide holes at the proper distance. I traced a factory grip after centering the grip screw holes on the template, then cut and trimmed the aluminum grip template to shape.

[MW surveyor]

Man, is this a great forum or what!

Get a pat on the back, recommendation to a good grip maker and find out where to actually by a step drill for the 1911 grips!

I just sent a package to Bawanna. Not gonna reveal what when to him to the forum members yet as these will be a test of materials.

[Bawanna]

Sweet. I gotta work on making a template like you did out of aluminum or metal of some sort. I sweat immensely everytime I go for the holes.

Probably speed things up immensely too. That step drill is on my list too. Should work real good.

[MW surveyor]

I've got a bunch of counter sink bitts for screws. If/when I get time, gonna see if I can modify one or two. The metal template is also the way to go especially if you make alot of the same type of grips.

[O'Dell]

Here's my first set of quick and dirty grips for the new Para. Turned out generally ok, I know I can do better (and have with some others) but did not take a lot of time on these. Less than 2 hours max. Need to figure out some kind of template for the hole drilling or at least get some repeatable accuracy. That or some kind of step drill.

Anyway, here they are. Zebra wood. Not sure if I'm liking these against the stainless.

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l605/MWsurveyor/grips1.jpg

How did you get the large photo? Mine are always postage stamp size.

[MW surveyor]

I think it has something to do with the size that you take the photo with. This photo was with my iPhone so it is about 1.2 mega pixel. I took some other photos a while back with a different camera set at 5 mp and they came out/posted small. Also, I just copied the image link at the bottom of the photo rather than go through the other stuff about posting/linking.

[Diocoles]

I think they look nice.
I'm planning on doing some myself soon.
Have some nice wood, just have to get it split.

Where did you get that beavertail safety. Looks like a standard GI frame gov't model 70 1911.????

[MW surveyor]

Thanks.

They came with the gun. It is a standard GI frame but Para added a bunch of goodies/upgrades, like the grip/beaver tail safety, the lightend hammer, pierced trigger, sights. Stuff I would have probably changed out anyway on a standard GI model. I know I would have changed the front sight at the least. So I spent a little more on the front end (plus the stainless steel) so I didn't or don't have do do any mods right away.

Hey, just noticed you can see my poor boy "fiber optic" front sight in this pic. (vi hiz orange paint :) )

[Diocoles]

That beaver tail is interesting. Doesn't look typical.
Is that made to fit a GI frame without modification?
I'm getting a small beavertail on my RIA 1911 and would like to mod the frame as little as possible.

I'm also getting ready to do some grips of my own and appreciate your tips.

I knew I'd need to countersink from both directions the screw holes but glad to see I need to watch the placement a bit more carefully than I would have.

What did you finish the wood with?
Shape it with?
And have you thought about giving some kind of texture to that kind of grip?
I've found the smooth ones can get "slippery" when wet or using +P the grip isn't quite as good.

Anything else you can think of to watch out for would be greatly appreciated.

[Bawanna]

That beaver tail is interesting. Doesn't look typical.
Is that made to fit a GI frame without modification?
I'm getting a small beavertail on my RIA 1911 and would like to mod the frame as little as possible.

I'm also getting ready to do some grips of my own and appreciate your tips.

I knew I'd need to countersink from both directions the screw holes but glad to see I need to watch the placement a bit more carefully than I would have.

What did you finish the wood with?
Shape it with?
And have you thought about giving some kind of texture to that kind of grip?
I've found the smooth ones can get "slippery" when wet or using +P the grip isn't quite as good.

Anything else you can think of to watch out for would be greatly appreciated.

Zebra wood is borderline too soft but it will checker. It also doesn't seem to lose it's look when checkered like some of the woods do. Still looks nice.
I've often just used an RCBS case bevel hand too and just beveled the inside of the grip to fit over the bushings. It doesn't take much. I sometimes use it on the screw side to make sure the screw hole is uniform and round. I use a dremel in a drill stand to enlarge the hole to accomodate the screw for depth and diameter. It's tedious and nerve racking but best I've come up with so far.
I don't know what MW used on his but I use Linseed oil alot. Tung oil works good too but you sometimes have to thin it down some if you have checkering.

[MW surveyor]

Diocles

As in my post #17, the beaver tail safety came with the gun. They (Wilson Combat and a whole bunch of others) do make "drop ins" that should work with either no or minimal fitting.

As Bawanna says, the zebra wood is sort of on the soft end but if you look at the ones he did in the May "anything goes" thread in Geneneral, you'll see that he was able to checker it pretty darn good.

Just about any wood working tools will work to shape the grips. I used my band saw and scroll saw to cut out the shape but you could use fine hand saws as well. For shaping on the quick and dirty, I used a drill press mounted sanding drum and my belt sander chucked into a wood working vise. Also used hand rasps and files for final touch ups, then 100 and 220 grit sand paper. Finish is two coats of Danish Oil finish with a light buff with steel wool between the first and second coat.

I might play with doing some file/riffler work on them to add some texture and a bit of design.

As Bawanna says, getting the holes drilled properly is the most nerve racking part, (out side of checkering though, in my opinion). Drill the holes first before you put the work into the grip. If you mess up, then you haven't put that much work into them.

Good one on the case bevel tool Bawanna. Never thought of that! See learn something new everyday.

[Bawanna]

You get em shaped the way you want and I'll be happy to checker them for ya if you want. I'm more comfy with the checkering than the hole drilling myself.
Danish oil is another good finish, it also needs to be thinned some especially if your oiling checkering. A good stiff toothbrush and really work it in so it doesn't plug up the checkering is a must.

[Diocoles]

Got mine rough cut. Now I have to sand to shape and I'll follow the advice and drill the holes first. See if I should finish them after that.... :rolleyes:


Going to be doing it this weekend. All by hand. I did the preliminary cuts with a hand held jigsaw, the rest is going to be hand work.
I just like doing things that way.
Some of the suggestions were just too cool. Stuff I wouldn't think of since I haven't done any wood working since 7th grade...what... over 40 years ago... gosh. Can barely remember it...

Anyway, I'll post pics this weekend. Thanks for the input. Looking at more pics now to get more ideas.
Having to wait to get off work to hit the range then get started on the grips...:)