Crimping

Hi,
Sunday we had some folks over to shoot. Husbands & wives. Calbers were .38, 9mm, .40 and .45 acp. Everything was going fine except for a few ftfd. These were with the 9s and .45s. Those folks were shooting reloads. After some inspection of the unfired rnds. on the ground I noticed those rnds were not crimped. The case mouths were not belled but they weren't crimped.
The guns used used were a s Sig, Glock, 1911, and an RIA. After much cussing I suggested they try my reloads for 9s, and .45s ( I have no use for .40s )
From then on everything went on without a hitch.
These folks there didn't reload together. They did their own things.

So I know how I crimp my reloads ( 9mm, .38, .357, .44, & .45 ) I wonder how others crimp

I haven't loaded for quite a bit, probably a couple years. I load mainly 45 where I just taper crimp.
Don't reload much revolver but used to do 38 and 357, 44 and 45 Colt. I roll crimp fairly positively on those.
Like bullets with a cannelure to grab onto. Most ranges around here don't allow lead any more so I've got quite a few lead bullets just in limbo.

Here's what I do for all calibers, based on what Mike Dillon said


"When I adjust a taper crimp die, no matter the caliber, the procedure is the same: Put a sized, unflared, empty case into the last postion. Pull the handle down. Let go of the handle. With my fingers only, screw the die down until I feel it contact the case mouth. Lift the handle up slightly, hold it there while I screw the die down an additional 1/4 turn. Push the handle down, running the case back up into the die. With the case up in the die, tighten the die lock ring.

The Dillon seat die does not remove the flare completely. However, it will remove any excess flare :ie, if the case is excessively flared that it contacts the interior of the die body, it will be reduced. "


WWW.DILLONPRECISION.COM

Also helps guard against bullet set back.......................................I NEVER shoot reloads and especially someone elses................................

Actually now that you wrote that down, that's pretty much exactly what I do in most cases.
In some revolver loads back in the day I put a little heavier crimp.

I load more than 12k of 45 acp per year. Mostly Berry’s plated and some Acme coated using a Dillion. The crimp using plated and coated is different. Much less crimp is used, less than I prefer but that’s how it works out. Too much crimp with Berry’s and the coating is torn off and the bullet tumbles. Less of a problem with the coated.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jg rider

Here's what I do for all calibers, based on what Mike Dillon said


"When I adjust a taper crimp die, no matter the caliber, the procedure is the same: Put a sized, unflared, empty case into the last postion. Pull the handle down. Let go of the handle. With my fingers only, screw the die down until I feel it contact the case mouth. Lift the handle up slightly, hold it there while I screw the die down an additional 1/4 turn. Push the handle down, running the case back up into the die. With the case up in the die, tighten the die lock ring.

The Dillon seat die does not remove the flare completely. However, it will remove any excess flare :ie, if the case is excessively flared that it contacts the interior of the die body, it will be reduced. "


WWW.DILLONPRECISION.COM

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Well written tutorial. Thanks for sharing. That’s been my procedure as well but I couldn’t have described it so clearly. Also, like Bawanna.. for magnum revolver cartridges I generally use a much heavier roll crimp.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jg rider

Hi,
Sunday we had some folks over to shoot. Husbands & wives. Calbers were .38, 9mm, .40 and .45 acp. Everything was going fine except for a few ftfd. These were with the 9s and .45s. Those folks were shooting reloads. After some inspection of the unfired rnds. on the ground I noticed those rnds were not crimped. The case mouths were not belled but they weren't crimped.
The guns used used were a s Sig, Glock, 1911, and an RIA. After much cussing I suggested they try my reloads for 9s, and .45s ( I have no use for .40s )
From then on everything went on without a hitch.
These folks there didn't reload together. They did their own things.

So I no how I crimp my reloads ( 9mm, .38, .357, .44, & .45 ) I wonder how others crimp

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I taper crimp with my Lee dies for everything but .38/.357 Mag, and they fire fine. I made the mistake early on of crimping too tight and came back with about 50% of my brass cracked. You don't need much of a crimp, I lower the handle until I can feel the bullet then back it out a full turn. For .38/.357 Mag I don't crimp at all.