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Thread: Can Someone Help Me?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
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    982

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    Quote Originally Posted by cesande View Post
    I almost hesitate to post this but here goes...
    Being an old farm boy I have used this countless times to get head stripped screws out but fear the electronics of the CT won't like it.

    When screw heads get stripped out I have had lots of success by....

    Get the best fitting screwdriver for the stripped head.
    While turning as tight as you can without it slipping out, give the back end of the screwdriver repeated taps with appropriate sized hammer.
    The idea is to keep tension loosening the screw and the hammer will let you use the vibration to aid in turning it out.

    They used to sell a tool for this (can't find it just now), but I found that the ol screwdriver with a few raps with a hammer did just as well.

    Again not sure the electronics in the CT would be happy with this but if you are gentle enough it may not hurt to try since it can handle recoil....

    YMMV
    What he said. PLUS Buy a set of really good jewelers screwdrivers and pick the one that fits the slot or the cross as closely as possible. Don't use some Harbor Freight POS, get GOOD screwdrivers with hardened tips if possible. Use a light hammer with light taps and turn the screwdriver counterclockwise as you tap.

  2. #12

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    I like the farm boy suggestion. Another good enough idea would be to take something which almost fits, dip it in epoxy and epoxy it to the head of the screw. You will need to set it up so it can cure for 24 hours, but this might work, if you are close to having the tool fit.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Northwest
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    OK Then, I just went to the CT site via the link at the top of this page and watch the install vid.
    That vid showed hex keyed screws and advised using only the long end, while turning the short end of the wrench provided.
    Often wrenches "provided" are soft and of poor quality, only to be used once, and I would suggest buying a quality wrench (hex key) and stoning of filing the END to remove any bevel and get crisp corners on the hex surfaces to help avoid stripping of the screw head.

    Tilos

    Edit: In the vid the screws look to be 5-40 or 4-40 which is quite small, and I believe, not easily removed using the farm boy method.
    I apologize if my post contains the same or similar information as someone who has posted before me.


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Somewhere in Kalifornia
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    268

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    The screws are very small, I'm surprised you didn't strip the threads on the laser body. They are not mean't to be tightened more than just finger tight. Get the next bigger size wrench, use pressure as you turn it, you should be able to get them out. Do not use any power tools or drills, you will for sure damage the plastic body and the Crimson Trace guarantee. The tool they provide is good quality, I have never stripped a screw and I own many (10) CT lasers.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    173

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tilos View Post
    ....., not easily removed using the farm boy method.
    Come on man.... what can't be fixed with a hammer.. screwdriver... well and maybe some bailing wire and duct tape....


  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Washington State
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    1,243

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    A lot of times, when I was drilling a hole in a stripped screw in preparation for using a screw extractor, the head fell off and/or the thing started spinning just from the vibration of drilling it.

    I've recently acquired a set of those reverse threaded drill bits for the next one, but have not had an opportunity to use them yet.

    I like the epoxy idea, maybe some JB Weld. If that fails, then the backwards drill bits.

  7. #17
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    Mar 2010
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    Northwest
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    FYI:
    During the manufacturing of hex keys the ends are sheared, before bending, and this distorts the working ends of the wrench.
    Even a good quality hex key can be improved by stoning/filing the ends to remove this distortion, and becomes critical in the smaller sizes used to work on guns.

    Also, torx head drivers benefit from this to sharpen the corners and ensure complete engagement into the screw.

    TMI,
    Tilos
    I apologize if my post contains the same or similar information as someone who has posted before me.


  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    199

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tilos View Post
    In general, not to anyone specific here, some people are good at other types of tinkering besides guns.
    I value the skills and ability of the guy who mounts my tires but I wouldn't let him near my guns.

    I have had ham fisted friends/shooting buddies that could booger up a gun something sinful.
    I have had to tackle a guy bellying up to the side of my truck, in full belt buckle mode, loading a bag of fertilizer.
    To some, guns and trucks are just a tool, but to me they are cherished things of beauty.
    YMMV,
    Tilos


    even glocks
    Ain't that the truth. I just love those guys, and I think a lot of it is "Oh well it's the other guys property so what". Nobody respects anyone else's property anymore.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    475

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    Sorry but this must be a short response.
    They're hex screws and TINY!
    And I used the allen wrenches provided by Crimson Trace.
    I think that's the gist of the questions out there.
    Kahr PM9094 - Hornady Critical Defense

    Marlin 30-30
    Mossberg 500A 12 GA
    Marlin .22LR

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Somewhere in Kalifornia
    Posts
    268

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    If you haven't got them loose yet, I think you should first stone or grind the end of the allen wrench supplied by CT to get nice clean points on it(not stripped), and then using that wrench with some pressure, remove the screws. If they are stripped in the plastic CT frame, contact CT for ideas, they have a support email site.
    Roger

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