Wolff 5# Striker Spring

[Markis82]

Maybe gritty isn't the right word...I'm used to 1911 triggers and Savage Accu-triggers, so this DAO trigger is new to me. There's about a 1/4 inch of loose take up, and then within the next 1/4 inch when there's resistance, it feels gritty, and you can hear an audible "click" inside the gun. It's that "click" that is making the trigger not feel smooth.

Kahr triggers are quiet and smooth. It sounds like something is rubbing or there is some abrasive dirt somewhere. Does it feel that way with the slide removed? If so, spray the heck out of the inside of the lower with declorinated brake parts cleaner. Use the power of the spray to remove any dirt or sandy stuff that might bein there. Next use a flashlight and look as you pull the trigger. It there anything rubbing against the trigger bar, the trigger bar spring? A little gun lube should take care of it. Is the cocking cam smooth or the cocking cam spring rubbing? If it only happens with the slide on, I'd detail strip the slide and clean the striker channel, striker, striker spring, etc...

[tarheelcm9]

Thanks for the tips, it needs a good clean, so I'll probably detail strip it anyways.

[Allen]

Here is the thread. Slide detail strip

There is a difference from the video... To remove the slide cover, get a small but strong jewelers screw driver and push the extractor pin in thru the whole in the slide cover. This will relieve tension on the slide cover and you can push it down while pushing in on the extractor pin. This is where you need to watch out for flying parts.

Do it inside a clear heavy duty ziploc bag. From the spring pressure, parts tend to fly out and you'll never find them if they are not contained.

For gosh darn sake, take note of how the parts are as you take them out so you can put them back correctly.

Also have some brake parts cleaner at hand. Might as well clean everything up while you have at appart.

I haven't disassembled the slide on my new CM9 yet as I'm still learning from all the Posts. Question here I might have is: If parts fly out and have to be contained in a ziploc bag how can I take note of where the parts came from so I can put them back correctly? Reading the link about the procedure is scary. I used to take my toy guns apart (oh how many years ago) and later working with my Dad in his garage I'd take apart carbureters for him and there were always things flying out I didn't know where they came from. He did though.
This is what always scares me about disassembling an expensive firearm, even just the amount to clean and lube my Kahr before firing. I guess if I really got into trouble I could box up all the parts and send them back to Kahr for proper assembling. Would be a little embarrassing though to say the least.

[wyntrout]

There are pictures of the slide parts and the order and care needed for taking it apart and putting it back together. A "C" clamp is easy to make and each Kahr requires a slightly different length, but coat hangers are cheap. See ripley16's picture on post #3 in that same thread.


After removing the back plate, I use a straightened paper clip to push the pin, spring and rear pin out the back. The extractor just rotates inward, forward, and free. Then you can depress the safety block, and then remove the striker spring, striker and the spring rest in the striker. Then remove the safety block and its tiny spring.

For re-assembly, the safety block and spring goes in before the striker and extractor assemblies. Put the striker pin retainer in the striker and the spring in the striker and put those into the striker channel. The safety block needs to be pressed in for the striker to go by it.

The front pin in the extractor train has to be oriented correctly towards the front, and extractor can be taped in place so that you can position the correctly oriented front pin, the spring , and then the rear pin before compressing them with the "c" clamp that you made from a coat hanger.

The smallest jeweler screwdriver is the best for depressing the rear pin to remove and replace the back plate. it's thin and strong enough for the job of getting past the half-moon hole to depress the rear pin.

A clear plastic bag can be helpful to retain the parts. Just remember that the striker spring and the extractor assembly can go flying as the rear plate is slid off. The "C" clamp can keep the striker assembly in place... but remember not to let it loose.

Wynn

[jocko]

don't do it on a carpeted floor either.

It's not rocket science to take the slide apart. there is an excerllent slide tutorial posted on this forum in the kahr tech section. some of the genius on this forum have even came up with little coat hanger type tools that make the disassembly even easier and faster.

What wyn stated isa bout dead on to. Kahrs prtsmanual kinda shows u how it should all go back together, but again, it is also a no brainer to reinstall the parts correctly. Tinman can do it, so I know u or anyone can: Just sayin

[JFootin]

I haven't disassembled the slide on my new CM9 yet as I'm still learning from all the Posts. Question here I might have is: If parts fly out and have to be contained in a ziploc bag how can I take note of where the parts came from so I can put them back correctly?

It is pretty easy to keep things from flying, but the advice is for when you get clumsy and things go flying. Using the jeweler's screwdriver to push the pin, get the back plate started sliding. Remove the screwdriver and place a thumb over the hole before sliding the back plate the rest of the way off. Then, you can let your thumb out a bit to relieve spring tension and the extractor assembly can be removed a piece at a time.

[mightymouse]

Mine showed up today, 10 minutes before I was scheduled for an across town appointment. Still slipped it in and got a few pulls.
Really need some range time to fairly assess, but it feels nice, markedly lighter, but not too light by any means.
Between my new SR40C, now broken in and really nice, and the CM9, I could start to be a trigger snob.

[TucsonMTB]

Mine arrived in Saturday's mail, which gave me a chance to install them in both PM40's and hit the range on Sunday. I measured the pull before and after installation with my very unscientific spring hanging scale. The trigger pull seems to have dropped a little less than a pound in both guns. They were about half a pound different from each other before the change because one has a lot more rounds through it than the other.

The gun with fewer rounds through it now feels much better than it did before the change, with less stacking. When shooting slowly with two hands for "accuracy" its trigger now breaks very cleanly providing the kind of "surprise" that makes for good accuracy with slow trigger pulls. I am really pleased.

The gun with more rounds through it is lighter, but the trigger doesn't feel very different than before the spring change. Nice, but not startlingly better. It breaks about the same as it did before the change. That's OK. I very seldom pull the trigger in a PM40 slowly enough to notice the break and it is still just as smooth as it was before the change.

Overall, the spring change was worthwhile, especially with the newer gun. Before the change, the newer gun's trigger was not my favorite, between the two. Now it is!

While examining the spent cases fired on Sunday after the change and comparing them with spent cases from the same lots of ammo that happened to be fired before the spring change, I can see no differences in the marks on the primers left by the striker. This is a good thing. Neither pistol has ever failed to go "bang" at the appropriate time.

This spring change should probably be described as, "nice, but not at all necessary." I am very comfortable detail stripping the slide, which is necessary to install the springs, so it's all a plus for me. If I were at all intimidated by the need to tear down and reassemble the slide, I would pass and not feel as if I were missing anything. YMMV

[jocko]

measure ur springs a 1000 rounds from now and then u willsee a bigger % drop. right now ur comparing what I call appples to oranges. A new striker spring inits prime to a broken in striker spriung that has taken its designed set and ]poundage decrease.

tucson, I have over 32K out of mY PM9 and the same 5# striker spring has been in it all tha ttime with never an issue. I never feared that scenario. Ur right to. it is ncie but not necessary, some shooter notice the difference more than others to, actually when I installed my 5# striker I just removed that backing plate and left all the internals in the slide as best as I could. I just did not feel the need to tear every part out of the slide.. I have a used PM9 blunt nose that I bought a month ago and so far it is 100% bone stock, now sure what I am gonna do with it. I hate to put any real money in the gun due tothe fact that my custom PM9 is my 24/7 carry peace and I don't anticipate carrying this gun, but just could not pass up the great trade I made on it and to find a blunt nose PM9, is hard to do..

[TucsonMTB]

I have a used PM9 blunt nose that I bought a month ago and so far it is 100% bone stock, now sure what I am gonna do with it. I hate to put any real money in the gun due tothe fact that my custom PM9 is my 24/7 carry peace and I don't anticipate carrying this gun, but just could not pass up the great trade I made on it and to find a blunt nose PM9, is hard to do..

Two is always better than one, especially for a carry piece . . . just my opinion, of course.



Were I you, I would be inclined to leave the latest acquisition stock to make comparisons with your customized piece possible. Of course, I am not you and since you have the means to do whatever you want to, feel free to ignore my observation.