Kahr Lube Diagram

[Kal0348]

I just bought a CW40 yesterday, and haven't fired it yet. I want to clean and lube it correctly, and am reading some of the threads and posts in this Kahr-Tech section to learn as much as I can about taking care of this pistol.

I have other pistols by other manufacturers, and I really don't care for the way they feel in my hand. At the LGS yesterday I picked up the CW40, and I knew I had to take it home.

I know this thread is about lubing the pistols, and I've been using Hornady One Shot spray lube on my other guns, after blasting away the crud with Gunscrubbber synthetic safe spray.

Will this Hornady lube work ok on my Kahr? I printed a copy of the lube diagram here, and I want to make sure I use the right stuff on my first Kahr.

By the way, I'm having a bear of a time lining up the witness marks to remove and re-install the slide release, and I'm afraid I'm gonna shoot my eye out with the guide rod/spring when trying to re-install after maintenance. Any hints on how to put the pistol back together? My arthritic hands would be eternally grateful.

Thanks for your help here.

[jocko]

try ur hornady one shot spray and if it works OK in the gun then stick with it. lots of good lubes out there, so we each have our own desires but they are all better than no lube at all. I am no tn any positon to tell anyone wha tto use or not to use. If it worked in other guns, then why would it not work in a Kahr.???

The witness mark thinbg, in time u will get used to it. The guide rod spring will after a 200 rounds be alot easier to insert to. Give it some time to take it re designed set and u will be OK with it. Ur doing OK..

[JFootin]

Here's what I do to line up the takedown marks:

1. put a chop stick, pointed end out, between my teeth.
2. Using both hands to line the marks up, then lean over there and insert the pointy end between the barrel and the breech face, adjusting it up and down until the marks allign.
3. Use the plastic handle of a screwdriver to push the end of the slide stop pin in on the right side. (This gets easier as the gun gets broken in.)
4. Slide the screwdriver carefully under the slide stop to nudge it further out. (Use a piece of cloth if you worry about scratching anything.)
5. Pull the slide stop the rest of the way out by hand.
6. Grasp the gun with your finger on the trigger, pull the trigger, remove the chop stick and take the slide off by sliding it forward. (If it sticks, it is usually the cocking cams near the back that are holding it. Move the slide back a little bit and play with the trigger until the cams lay down and get out of the way. Then, it will slide right off.)

I have crippled hands. I use a rag to cushion things and to catch the recoil spring if it tries to go flying. Then, I just keep working at it until it goes in. That spring will take a set and get a little easier to handle after you have put a few boxes of ammo thru the gun.

When you are positioning the recoil spring assembly before putting it in, allign the open front end of the spring toward the barrel.

Also, when reassembling the gun be careful to follow the instructions for positioning the slide stop lever as you insert it so that the slide stop spring gets positioned correctly in the groove on top of the lever. (Hold it at 4:00 until half way in, then 3:00 and shove it the rest of the way in.)

[Kal0348]

Thanks for your help. I'm pretty sure that everything's gonna be just fine with my Kahr. All it needs is a little time and some shooting.

I'm gonna try the chop stick thing to get the witness marks in position, and I'm glad that you reminded me about the insertion of the slide stop lever at 4 o'clock for the beginning of insertion, and then at 3 o'clock to push it home.

I really need to re-read the manual carefully a second time. Some manuals of other makers' pistols have 40 pages of warnings and disclaimers, and only 3 pages of really useful information. I guess I got kind of sick and tired of all that, and just figured that no owner's manual was going to be any different. So I just stopped reading the things until I got into some trouble with something on the gun not working.

Thanks again.

[OldLincoln]

I can push my slide stop pin with my trigger finger, so I put pressure on it while racking the slide and it hangs up in the alignments holes. Then pluck the pin out from the left side with the left hand, while relieving slide pressure with the right.

John has it right about reinserting the slide stop pin. Remember the tiny nub of the spring has to go over a notch in the pin housing. If it's right, the lever will have some tension to keep it down. Also, you can see it with a light between the slide and stop lever if okay.

[Fireman489]

Ok, so Im a booger eat'n moron ......I sprayed OIL in the striker clean out hole instead of spraying cleaner in there...... I didnt realize it till AFTER I got home from the range and shot 100 rounds through it. So whats the best course of action for me now ? Should I just re-spray w the break cleaner (or any gun cleaner)? If I do that can I assume I'm "back on track" ? Gun seemed to run pretty smooth for being new....had 2 FTF's but that's it......I was shooting reloads if that makes a difference also.

Thanks
Erich

[Fireman489]

ohh forgot to mention Im shooting the PM9.....

[U.S. Patriot]

I use Weapon Shiled. It's the best lubricant I have found to date. I broke my down and did a normal clean and lube that I do on all my pistols. I had 0 issues out of the box.

[JFootin]

Yeah, blast it real good with brake cleaner. If you have an air blaster, use it to blow it out after the cleaner.

[ptoemmes]

Ok, so Im a booger eat'n moron ......I sprayed OIL in the striker clean out hole instead of spraying cleaner in there...... I didnt realize it till AFTER I got home from the range and shot 100 rounds through it. So whats the best course of action for me now ? Should I just re-spray w the break cleaner (or any gun cleaner)? If I do that can I assume I'm "back on track" ? Gun seemed to run pretty smooth for being new....had 2 FTF's but that's it......I was shooting reloads if that makes a difference also.

Thanks
Erich

I did similar during the initial prep (did not eat any boogers though) of my P45. I had light strikes in the first 200 that were probably attributed to the resultant gunky striker channel.

Now, you can do as other suggested: non chlorinated brake cleaner blast followed by air blasts, shoot another 100 or so, and if no issues you are good to go.

Or...take a deep breath, read, re-read, then re-read again the posts on stripping out the striker for a major cleaning. That's what I did and it also worked. Plus you learn a bit more about your weapon.

Pete