I believe that the kinetic energy is the part that does the clothing penetration, and the bullet design determines the expansion. In many cases, the JHP will not expand after filling the hollow point with layers of cloth. The FMJ, on the other hand, is not designed to expand, just to make holes. There is a new breed of bullets on the forefront of design today: they expand reliably in soft tissue after passing through several layers of clothing. Hornady Critical Defense (Hornady is one of those.
When a strong man, fully armed, guards his own house, his possessions are safe.
Luke 11:21