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Thread: K40 troubleshooting, fixed, runs great now thanks

  1. #11
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    Nov 2011
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    upstate SC
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    with these small guns timing is critical. make sure ur recoil spring is installed with open end to front of gun. a sleight bevel on front of rail is a must. there are pics of bevel on this site.

  2. #12
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    Dec 2013
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    Spokane, Washington
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    Quote Originally Posted by kahrnut1 View Post
    with these small guns timing is critical. make sure ur recoil spring is installed with open end to front of gun. a sleight bevel on front of rail is a must. there are pics of bevel on this site.
    The recoil spring was/is intalled with open coils toward the muzzle.

    My feed rail may be slightly beveled, is it supposed to be an obvious bevel?
    I cant find any pictures and dont have a straight edge.

  3. #13
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    Dec 2013
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    I appreciate all of your input. I traded my black K40 for a stainless K40 and it shoots great. My first one had a very long, uneven trigger pull with a definate hitch at the end right before breaking. This newer gun has the smooth crisp trigger that I have been reading about. It makes for an accurate shooter since the trigger break is so smooth and unexpected. This new gun doesnt have any of the Fail To Feed issues of the original. I really love this pistol.

    The only issue now is the 180 grain Federal rounds are hitting the slide lock as they move up in the magazine causing the slide to lock back. I will contact Jay at Kahr and see about getting a new slide lock.

  4. #14
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    Jun 2011
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    Corpus Christi, TX
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    Default K40 FTF after breakin, looking for help.

    Mmmmm, K40 (bad Homer Simpson impression).

    After getting my K9 and finding out that the metal Kahrs are, IMHO, just *better*, the K40 is definitely on my want list.

    NRA Life Member
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    I love my COUNTRY...but I don't trust my GOVERNMENT.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjt123 View Post
    Mmmmm, K40 (bad Homer Simpson impression).

    After getting my K9 and finding out that the metal Kahrs are, IMHO, just *better*, the K40 is definitely on my want list.

    NRA Life Member
    My MK40 Elite took 200 rounds just to start to loosen up.
    And a second 200 before it became 100% reliable.
    But after that the all stainless micro has been nothing short of amazing.
    I'm a big fan of the all stainless Kahr autos.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    NE Ohio
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    [QUOTE=Barth;280761]
    I'm a big fan of the all stainless Kahr autos.[/QUOTE

    Ditto ^^^^^

    ... Sorry you had to trade pistols but I'm glad you found a solution.
    ​O|||||||O

  7. #17
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    Dec 2013
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    Spokane, Washington
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    I'm happy with the trade as it shoots much more reliably and I don't think the sticky trigger on the old one would have smoothed out with age.
    I also wanted to go stainless because I want to take a stone to the sharp edges on the beaver tail that are cutting into my dominant thumb. Anyone else have that problem? It drew blood after 50 rounds.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by AFCop View Post
    I'm happy with the trade as it shoots much more reliably and I don't think the sticky trigger on the old one would have smoothed out with age.
    I also wanted to go stainless because I want to take a stone to the sharp edges on the beaver tail that are cutting into my dominant thumb. Anyone else have that problem? It drew blood after 50 rounds.
    My MK40 Elite I believe came with the melted treatment from the factory.
    The Kahr Elite treatment I think has a smoothed and polished exterior,
    beveled magazine well and polished feed ramp.
    The trigger feels like the internals may have been polished as well.
    It's like the gun went to the Kahr custom shop after it left the factory.
    I asked my gunsmith what else could be done to the gun? And he said nothing...

    Got my Elite complete with the factory NS.
    I highly recommend those options.

  9. #19
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    Apr 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by AFCop View Post
    I also wanted to go stainless because I want to take a stone to the sharp edges on the beaver tail that are cutting into my dominant thumb. Anyone else have that problem? It drew blood after 50 rounds.
    Hmmm. I'm not sure I'm clear on what you mean. I remember the slide lever rubbing my RH thumb at first and I resolved that by adjusting my grip. When I added the thicker wood grips that also helped as the lever didn't stick out as much. I believe many also dehorn the slide lever and that's a good idea.

    Everything in the backstrap/bearvertail area is really smooth. Are you talking about the bottom edge of the slide? Those are the only sharp surfaces I can see back there. If so, I think the best cure for "slide bite" is to shore up your grip.

    Not sure if that helped but....
    ​O|||||||O

  10. #20
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by b4uqzme View Post
    Hmmm. I'm not sure I'm clear on what you mean. I remember the slide lever rubbing my RH thumb at first and I resolved that by adjusting my grip. When I added the thicker wood grips that also helped as the lever didn't stick out as much. I believe many also dehorn the slide lever and that's a good idea.

    Everything in the backstrap/bearvertail area is really smooth. Are you talking about the bottom edge of the slide? Those are the only sharp surfaces I can see back there. If so, I think the best cure for "slide bite" is to shore up your grip.

    Not sure if that helped but....
    I would post a picture but I apparently need to have 30 posts under my belt first. There are pictures on the site showing the area I am talking about but I will try to describe it better.

    The top of the grip where a beaver tail would be if this were a 1911. I grip high, pressing the web of my thumb into this area. On the all steel K40 there is a sharp angled edge where the back of the grip transitions to the side of the grip. On my first black carbon K40 this edge was sharp and cut into my thumb. This newer stainless guns has a "slightly" more rounded edge.

    I would like to round it off a little more. Wondering if a stone is the best way to do this. Not sure if sandpaper will do much to stainless.

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