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Thread: Recoil spring install

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    11

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    I thought I was going to have to sell my CW40 because I simply couldn't power the spring and rod into position. After several tries I almost gave up when I saw a 1/4" dowel rod in my kit. Inserted it through the hole in the slide and into the spring up to where the rod was. That prevented the spring from contorting during installation and popping into space. MY problem was weak hands and flexing spring. The dowel rod made all the difference in the world and I can now easily reinstall the spring/guide rod so...CW40 stays. Maybe this will help someone else.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Near the Gila Mountains in SW AZ.
    Posts
    5,468

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    Nice tip Jimbo!
    [<a href=http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif target=_blank>http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif</a>

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Wet & Wild Pacific NW
    Posts
    30,728

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    I've ejected a few nasty words messing with that spring myself. That indeed is a great tip.
    And I have a bunch of dowel already at the bench. Life is good.

    Thanks
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

    "If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Posts
    3

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    I'm new on here and have a ( dumb ) question. How do I post a message ? I went to FAQ and I'm more confused than when I started. All help appreciated !

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    9

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    Using a long machine screw, nut and couple of washers, works great for giving an initial "set", and easing new spring installations.

    I just put new Wolff springs ("20.5 #, Xtra Power") on my new-to-me PM9.

    Removing the smaller diameter internal spring was fairly easy. I spaced the sleeve back from the end nut with a "U" shaped
    piece of coat hanger wire, and captured the sleeve flange and guide rod flange between soft pine blocks, in a bench vise.

    With the sleeve & rod immobilized, the coat hanger wire spacer came out, leaving a work space between end nut and sleeve.
    The end nut turned off fairly easily with pliers.

    I wrapped old t-shirt around both ends of the RSA, before unwinding the vise, and nothing flew away when the small diameter
    spring did it's thing

    But how to get the nut back on, with that new spring?!

    Even with the three-day machine screw pre-set, the spring was still way longer than the guide rod--and that small diameter spring, IMO, is stiffer than the outer, larger diameter spring. After conjecturating various Rube Goldberg possibilities, I realized "the pistol will do that."

    I assembled the pistol with guide rod, small diameter spring, and sleeve. Then, with slide locked back, the threaded tip
    of guide rod was exposed, allowing the nut to be threaded on (with thread locker, of course)*.

    I re-used the soft pine blocks & vise, to give the nut a bit more torque. Installed the new outer spring without much
    drama, and let the thread locker cure for a day and a half. Shot about sixty rounds yesterday, and end nut is still
    secure.

    * I reckon the nut could be removed, using this method, if a vise wasn't available, if you had some way of preventing the spring guide shaft from rotating. Padded jaw vise grip type pliers might work, but there'd be a risk of marring or bending the guide shaft.
    rotating

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Bowling Green, Virginia
    Posts
    3,175

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    This thread begs the question; what is the life of the recoil spring in the various models? Is there a standard or suggested round count published by Kahr? I recall from many years ago that the springs needed replacement fairly often, but my memory is faded. I've been replacing mine somewhere prior to 5000 rounds... all 9mm and medium or large models.
    Judging by today's left wing, looks like Senator Joe McCarthy was right after all.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Wet & Wild Pacific NW
    Posts
    30,728

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    I seldom if ever replace recoil springs. I figure the gun will let me know when the spring may need replacing.
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

    "If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Not seeing anything on Kahr's site, regarding replacement interval.

    In general, the smaller the pistol, the harder the job of the recoil spring(s), and the shorter the service life.
    I'm just getting familiar with my first Kahr, a PM9. I'm thinking 1,000 rounds might be a good target, for
    a small pistol, like the PM9

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    4,106

    Default

    Hi Steve, welcome to the forum…..You’re right about small guns needing more maintenance and a good rule of thumb for a little gun you trust your life with using quality springs is around 1500 rounds or so…..Springs are cheap insurance to keep a pistol running trouble free and dependable……I only wish I had 1500 rounds of ammo to wear a spring or two out with…..
    The Federal Government can not give anyone a single penny that it has not taken away from someone else….

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