P45 not resetting its striker

[muggsy]

That sounds exactly like what is happening. Looking down in from the top the spring looks ok, but obviously can;t see the backside of the trigger bar.

How do I get the side plate off? Slip a small screwdriver or flat blade in the top, near the rear where it looks like a pin, and pry off gently?

I should honestly add that I truly don't understand the mechanics of the above and can only look at the trig bar/spring to see that they are intact. i think i could tell if
the trigger bar is unduly worn tho. I'd love to see an animated film showing how
these things work in slow motion!

Remove the Torx head screw and gently pry the side cover off. The screw goes into the polymer frame. Don't over tighten it when you put it back together.
Your wish is my command. Here is a video on how the action works. Note some images have been reversed for clarity. If the trigger bar is hanging up the trigger won't reset. If the slide doesn't go back into full battery the trigger won't reset. Last week I couldn't even spell gunsmith. Now I are one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYRH...e=results_main

[gb6491]

Remove the Torx head screw and gently pry the side cover off. The screw goes into the polymer frame. Don't over tighten it when you put it back together.
Your wish is my command. Here is a video on how the action works. Note some images have been reversed for clarity. If the trigger bar is hanging up the trigger won't reset. If the slide doesn't go back into full battery the trigger won't reset. Last week I couldn't even spell gunsmith. Now I are one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYRH...e=results_main

Hmm....probably nitpicking, but that might not be universal as my CW45 and CW9 triggers will reset with the slide about .20-.25" out of full battery.

When taking the side plate off: in addition to the screw, some plates attach via a ball socket near the lower left corner:

BTW, some older poly Kahrs have a pin (vice the current screw) in the upper left portion of the plate to hold the plate in place. To remove the pin, look for a dimple where the pin protrudes (doesn't actually break the surface of the polymer) on the opposite side of the frame, put some tape over it to help prevent marring the finish (might not be possible to avoid), and tap the pin until it's flush. Now you should be able to pry the pin out from the plate side.


The OP might want to inspect the trigger bar for any wear or damage that might impede it's reset...something along the lines of this (posted by Tangolima600)


There are a few examples (and fixes) for trigger reset failure listed here: http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?1612-CW45-%28and-other-poly-45%29-issues-and-fixes

Regards,
Greg

[muggsy]

Your link doesn't work GB.

[gb6491]

Your link doesn't work GB.

Thank you sir...should now.
Regards,
Greg

[muggsy]

Yup, it's workin'.

[muggsy]

If the slide doesn't go into full battery a light strike can occur, because part of the energy delivered by the striker to the primer is absorbed in moving the slide fully forward. I've seen the same thing happen when primers weren't fully seated. It's not a common problem, but not unheard of.

[ulflyer]

Muggsy: Thanks for all the above info. I can see now how to remove the plate on my P45 as mine is the older type without Torx screw. No problem when I get ready to do that.
In the meantime, since I only had a little daylight left when I got home, I loaded up 15 more rounds to give it another try since the few I shot last evening went so well. These 15 fired perfectly. So, for now, I'm gonna hold off pulling the side plate untill I can load up at least a box to give it a better workout. Any more failures to reset the trigger, and I'll put the plate. For now, what you can see and feel of the trigger mechanism, its smooth and easy, as it should be.

As to the primers: they are definitely being set flush and the bullets drop freely in/out of a Dillon Case Gauge.

I like to know the "why" of things and will preport after I've had a chance to do more experimenting.

Thanks a million to all of you for the feedback and especially the pics. Don't know what I would have done without all the help.

[ulflyer]

Seems as tho the Federal primers have solved the problem I was having with the Winchester primers. Shot a half box more this PM with zero problems. Even tossed
in five 205Gr SWC and they did just fine. No idea why I was having problem with trigger not resetting but since I've had no further problems since I switched to Federals, I'll let it go for now. I won't be comfortable carrying it tho, not till I've run a lot more thru without problems. I've got enough 9mm, actually too many, till I get a 45 up and running to suit me. I'm thinking a Sig GSR 45 I bought a couple weeks ago and sent off to Sig for some work will turn out to be a good one. However, its a 1911 type and I prefer the Kahr.

[DJK11]

Yep, Winchester primers. Been having problems with Win large primers in 45 acp. Two or three hits before ignition, some don't ignite. Used two PM45s and a NiteHawk. Spoke with Winchester and no complaints with my lot#. Winchester may be picking them up for inspection. I'm glade I loaded only 400 rounds.

[ulflyer]

I never had any probs with Win Small primers that were old as the Large primers. Also used a lot of CCI Small and may go back with CCI in the Large once I use up my Federals; unless I can find Feds at less than $35 +tax per thousand. Others go for about $29. The $35 Feds were called "Matched Primers" in a brownish/red box. I picked up a couple of these at a gun show for $30, but at the time, I assumed my supply of older Win Large were good. Dang, I hate to discard two thousand Win primers. May work up a few to try in the Sig 1911 I just got back yesterday. It spit out 6 mags of reloads yesterday PM with no issues. Gonna give it a good workout today as the wx here in NC is still mild.