DIY parkerizing

[gb6491]

It's an excellent finish for carbon steel that is DIY friendly.
Perhaps I can nudge some folks into giving it a try.

Here are the two websites that got me started:
http://www.blindhogg.com/parkerizing.html
http://www.theboxotruth.com/educatio...ing-a-sistema/

A nice summarized post about it: http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=10478.0
He recommends painting freshly parkerized parts. I mostly seal with motor oil. I did paint the slide stop on my Glock 27 after parkerizing it and it still looks great today.

Here are a few others I had book marked:
http://www.m1-garand-rifle.com/parkerizing/
http://projectguns.com/parkerizing2.html
http://www.freewebs.com/socal_websho...arkerizing.htm
http://www.calvan.com/html/parkerizing_tanks.html - (sells solution and tanks...I've not bought anything from them)

Videos:
Many, many on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_uJFGsW1yQ - Small parts, he's also using a pre-blackener
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ8ub_X32xM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUVg5GxkAPU - Really like this guy's DIY burner.

Prep is everything.
Parts must be free of grease/oil and old finish.
Once the parts are ready it is paramount not to touch them with your bare hands or to allow any other type of oil to come into contact with them. Don't get any sweat on them either.

Some reads on prep:
http://www.projectguns.com/parkerizing.html
https://www.reddit.com/r/guns/comments/1234gl/ten_easy_steps_to_parkerizing_your_gun_parts_at/

You can do the prep correctly only to have the parts flash rust. It's a light yellowing rust that can occur going from prep to parkerizing. I've never quite nailed down why it occurs. So I try to go to a hot rinse right from blasting, then quickly to a hot pre-bath or the parkerizing tank.

The tank should be stainless steel or ceramic/glass (porcelain coated will also work).
I've read and used to believe that carbon steel or iron pots should not be used, but now think they may be ok after their initial use because then they'll have been parkerized. Still, why waste the solution on this.
You could also use plastic or pvc with some type immersion heater (stainless or ceramic element). I've done zinc phosphate on long bayonets by heating the solution on a hot plate (what I use for larger parts) then pour it into a vertical length of capped PVC (no heater). I also heat small amounts for small parts in glass or plastic containers using an old microwave I have in the garage for just this purpose.

I use solution (mostly manganese phosphate) from here:http://www.lauerweaponry.com/?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=920
https://www.shootersolutions.com/parkerizing.html
http://www.calvan.com/
I've not tried this:http://www.outdoorexperiment.com/2014/10/diy-homemade-parkerizing.html

I've found that parkerizing solutions work best in the 180-185 degrees F range. They work outside that range but may take longer (cooler) or shorten the working life of the solution (hotter).
I use a hot plate or a small propane BBQ for heat.

Some solutions need to be activated/aged/salted/whatever by adding steel to it and letting that cook for awhile. I use degreased steel wool for this. Their are powdered steels available for this.

Kits:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/parkerizing/benchtop-parkerizing-kit-prod22737.aspx - All you would need except heat and water.

I've done quite bit of experimenting.
Different type steels/different hardness steel can be hard to match color. Different surface treatments can affect the perceived color (maybe the actual color).
Here's my first attempt to do a full size pistol. I did an abrasive blast on it. Note the color mismatch:

Here's the same pistol after tweaking the solution (I later found that preheating the parts helps with color match as the parts don't affect the temp of the solution as much) and a less aggressive blasting:

I've come to like the less aggressive blasting look. I started doing that when I need to match the frame of this Colt to it's slide which had the factory finish intact:

Another Colt, a complete refinish:

Colors were very hard to match on this Ruger:

This RIA 1911 came out of the pot pretty evenly color matched:

continued below...

[gb6491]

Small part going into microwave heated solution:

Solution at work: DO NOT INHALE THE FUMES

Installed:

Here's the park'ed/painted slide stop on my G27, still looking good after years of use

Here's may blast cabinet and a stand alone gun. I use them, a compressor, and media I bought from Harbor Freight. That's probably an outlay of about $200 to $275 (dependent upon sales/discounts/coupons). The compressor sees a lot of use for other tools/jobs and is about half the total. I actually use the cabinet and gun quite a bit for other projects. I'd like to reiterate how useful a compressor is around the home.

I've got room for one last photo, so here is another Colt that was a complete refinish:


There's a lot of satisfaction from doing this type of work. I'd be glad to answer any questions I can.
Regards,
Greg

BTW, there can be downsides to this so give this a read:
http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...ined-a-Makarov

[Bawanna]

Excellent post Greg, I'll have to dig into the links better when I have more time.
I have a stand alone gun and media, thanks to a member here who sent it to me. I haven't blasted anything since I haven't got around to finding a way to contain the stuff.

I'd like to get a blast cabinet like that but ask myself if I'd actually use it enough. I don't think I have your talent.

I have two small compressors, one in the shop and one in my man cave, I use them a LOT. From blowing out parts to keeping my wheelchair tires blown up.

Right under my bench it occasionally scares the heck out of me when it fires up. All quiet and in contemplation on something and then wham, that thing lights off.................................

[gb6491]

Thanks Bawanna

LOL, I've done the compressor-kicking-on-jump myself...more than a few time

Blasting is another one of those things you don't realize how handy it is to have about until you do have it.

This will be my next one:
http://www.barrelblaster.com/BarrelBlaster1.htm

Here are few ideas for making your own:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/sh...t-cabinet.html
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-...50-in-an-hour/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Home...sting-Cabinet/

I may make something along the lines of the last one, but just drill a hole into the box so I can poke the nozzle of my handheld gun into it (maybe add a grommet). That way I'd have a little movement of the nozzle, but mostly I'd just manipulate the part. Shoot I might just try a plastic bucket and lid, but will probably need a a bigger exhaust port for that.

Regards,
Greg

[Alfonse]

Great stuff Greg, and that barrel blaster is a nice cabinet for the $. Finding the time....

[berettabone]

That Series 80 has a nice color............................................. ..

[Scarywoody]

I've Parkerized a number of pistols including my 1911. I use a dip of Muriatic acid (for concrete cleaning) to remove the bluing. 10 seconds and gone. I usually buy the solution from Shooters Solution. All the finishes I have done has stood up well for many years.