Some Rust on my New K9

[MikeAvery71]

I noticed some rust spots this evening on the grip frame as well as the slide serrations. There are little pinprick spots where my fingers wrap around the frame. So I gave it a good coating of clp. The crazy thing is, I normally apply a light coating of Remoil after handling it, because my other new firearm, a Ruger 1911 ss, had the exact same problem. I sent the 1911 back to Ruger and they repaired it. So two completely diferent firearms, both with satin ss finishes, had the same issue. I don't daily carry either one. They have both been minimally used. I've certainly fondled and have dry fired the Kahr a lot. But like I mentioned, I don't sweat on it and then put it away without a run down with an oiled cloth. So what is the deal with these new ss only firearms? I know that ss doesn't mean rust proof.

[Cokeman]

It it humid there?

[MikeAvery71]

It is humid here, Great Lakes region.

[MikeAvery71]

I think I'll try Renaissance wax. There is rust on the back of the slide and other areas as well.

[CJB]

What you're seeing is the interaction of your perspiration with the embedded TOOLING particles left in the metal. Those can be passivated very easily with just about any phosphoric acid compound such as naval jelly. Eventually that type of rusting will disappear but it's an annoyance in the meantime. To Kahrs benefit they do be BLAST everything which knocks most of the embedded tooling metal from the slides and frames.

(edit, correction of Jocko-isms due to voice typing in a noisy spot)

[Alfonse]

They are a 400 series stainless and yes, it will rust. But, it machines well and is strong. Eezox is supposed to be a good way to protect from corrosion. I'm in the desert though, so nothing really corrodes here.

[MikeAvery71]

Thank you. I will pick up some naval jelly and give it a try. I think that, along with the wax I ordered and a good oil will help a lot.

[MikeAvery71]

Well, I picke up some naval jelly and to my surprise it specifically states not to use on stainless steel. So I guess that isn't going to work after all.

[CJB]

No... what they're talking about is real rust on stainless, as opposed to the particles left by tooling (not cooling, my voice typing has been corrected).

The tooling leaves embedded bits of non stainless. You can passionate it or blast it away. Blasting does in fact get most of it. Passivization with phosphoric acid (aka Naval Jelly) will get the rust stains and the particles, and be ok for your stainless parts.

I have treated all sorts of stainless, including my own parts that I wire wheeled with non-stainless wheels. Same issue, the non-stainless metal is embedded and you eventually get rust. You treat it, and you mitigate the issue in a very large way.

[CJB]

They are a 400 series stainless and yes, it will rust.

Generally yes, but I've suspected they're using an allow with perhaps... molybdenum in it, which would be a remediation against chloride based corrosive attack.

I'm saying that only because I've literally worn cut off shorts with my PM-45 and PM-9 in the front pocket, in the Atlantic Ocean waters (aka "the Sea"), had the pistol in my wet pocket half a day till they naturally dried out, and have suffered no ill effect with little more than a dip in a sink or bucket full of fresh water and a good sloshing about. Lube of the effected parts wear points followed.

So.... I dunno. Usually little pricks of rust here and there are embedded non-stainless. Broader swaths of rough and reddened metal is more indicative of a real corrosion problem.

Not trying to be argumentative, just falling back on my own experiences with my Kahr's. And yeah, I didn't exactly LIKE going into the Sea with my Kahr's, but there was a woman involved. You know how that goes....sometimes ya gotta.