MK9 Trigger Reset

[WesLey]

Need some help with a 99 MK9 .. had about any problem you could think of when I first shot the pistol ... with help from this forum and the good people here I have cleared most of the problems up which were mostly magazine related and a mighty dirty firing pin channel ... we probably shot 150 rounds yesterday and maybe five or six times it pulled the casing but didn't clear the gun all the way, a slight tilt would clear it .... (I figure a new extractor and spring will fix this?) .... But what troubles me most about the weapon is the failure to reset the trigger every time ... it probably didn't reset maybe ten times out of the 150 rounds ... a quick short pull of slide would reset it every time .... I cleaned the gun today and cannot get the trigger reset to fail by hand racking the slide no matter what I do .... Any thoughts and help would be greatly appreciated.

[gb6491]

You might pull the right side (as with the pistol pointed downrange) grip panel, then check that the trigger bar spring is seated correctly plus give that area and the grip panel a cleaning. Here's a photo Bawanna posted of a correctly positioned trigger bar spring in a metal frame Kahr:

Also check the disconnector (top/left end trigger bar for any burrs or other damage. Likewise, check the bottom of the slide where the disconnector sits for any dirt, damage, etc. While these photos are of a poly Kahr, the disconnector and area to check on the slide will be the same on the MK9


Regards,
Greg

[WesLey]

Thanks for a quick reply Greg ... I suspect the problem might be the trigger bar and or trigger spring ... without a reset on the mk9 the trigger is a lot lighter than my 380. .... The trigger bar at the back of the frame doesn't seem to have a positive stop ... after resetting the slide you can move the trigger forward a little which moves the bar down at the back... unlike the cw380 which has a positive stop.
The disconnect (second pic) shows no wear or roughness on the mk9 ... but I see that my 380 shows wear on the side.

[WesLey]

After looking at the gun again I believe at least part of the problem is with the cocking cam spring .. it seem pretty weak and the trigger works much better when applying hand pressure to the cocking cam ... I ordered a new cam and spring along with extractor and spring .. I will post back as soon as I have the new parts installed and shoot a few rounds .... Although the gun looks very good for an old 99 model it is probably time for some new springs and such.

[Alfonse]

After looking at the gun again I believe at least part of the problem is with the cocking cam spring .. it seem pretty weak and the trigger works much better when applying hand pressure to the cocking cam ... I ordered a new cam and spring along with extractor and spring .. I will post back as soon as I have the new parts installed and shoot a few rounds .... Although the gun looks very good for an old 99 model it is probably time for some new springs and such.

Good troubleshooting! The MK series pistols get a lot of love on this site, deservedly so.

[WesLey]

Anyone have any good tricks for getting the trigger pin out of my MK9 ... I had a bright ideal of buying a new drill press to use to press the pins out with ... it worked great on the cocking cam pin but not sure it is going to work on the trigger pin ... don't think we have any gun smiths close but we do have several good machine shops ... all thoughts welcome

[gb6491]

Anyone have any good tricks for getting the trigger pin out of my MK9 ... I had a bright ideal of buying a new drill press to use to press the pins out with ... it worked great on the cocking cam pin but not sure it is going to work on the trigger pin ... don't think we have any gun smiths close but we do have several good machine shops ... all thoughts welcome

When I detail stripped an older K9, I had to drive the trigger pin out with a punch. You could probably push it out with your drill press once it's started moving.
To get it started out:
The pin on the older K9 has a larger diameter on one side compared to the other. I used the punch on the smaller diameter side.
I clamped the pistol and a bench block securely to my work bench. You could forgo the bench block by positioning the frame over a couple pieces of wood spaced to allow the pin to move between them.
I used masking tape to protect the frame around the pin and from the clamp and bench block. My clamp also has a rubber face.
My starter punch is made from a small brass punch. I use brass to lessen the chance of damaging the pistol (aluminum would probably work as well). I grind/file the end to give me a short pin of the diameter I need. You could make something similar with brass stock from a hardware store.
Position the punch carefully and tap/smack it with a hammer to start the pin out. Once it was started, I switched to a brass rod and finished the job.

It might help to spray the pin with PB Blaster or another penetrate and letting it sit a bit before going to the punch.

Regards,
Greg

[WesLey]

Thanks Greg ... I was afraid to try a punch and when I had the punch in the drill press it wanted to flex ... I kept thinking I needed a shorter punch to stop the flex .... I'll give it a tap and see how that goes ... haven't received the parts yet but they will be here by mid week if I know Kahr ... I told ma I need a drill press anyway .... I was gonna say I'd keep y'all updated but I guess asking for more help kinda takes care of that

[CPTKILLER]

I'd send mine to Kahr if I had this issue.

[WesLey]

I'd send mine to Kahr if I had this issue.

I guess I could but I wouldn't learn anything about my pistol doing that ... and it's an old 99 model so would probably end up with more in it than it's worth ;( .. doesn't look all the hard to do and I don't want to mess up the finish getting the pin out ... parts came today (fast) I'll be able in a day or so to tell ya how hard it is to change out.