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Thread: CW380 Guide Rod--AGAIN!!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    154

    Default CW380 Guide Rod--AGAIN!!

    After my previous ordeal with the guide rod sticking was solved by a bit of dremel work to the frame "pocket" for that part, I had an awesome range trip during which my pistol happily digested a few different defensive rounds, and seemed to particularly like Hornady CD. I was so happy that I immediately (i.e. without disassembling or cleaning) brought it to my LGS for night sights.

    I picked it up today...the slide with its new sights were off the pistol in the box (as returned by the gunsmith who did the work). Wouldn't you know it, but neither I nor the LGS owner could put the damn thing back together. It was hanging up well before the point where the slide lock could be inserted. After a number of attempts, I tried to see the guide rod into that frame pocket and...sure enough...the guide rod wouldn't fit! And I don't mean it was just snug...it wouldn't go regardless of how much force I used.

    Obviously, putting those rounds downrange were enough to warp/shift/otherwise close that aperture. I took it home and used my dremel again so it would seat properly, but I AM NOT a happy camper about this issue.

    Man, I want to love Kahrs so badly, but I think about my long ownership of Glocks/Sigs/etc that don't require this level of TLC or repairs and wonder....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    255

    Default

    I don't have proof positive evidence, but I was thinking that my guide rod chewed up the frame where it seats after I fired a bunch of +P rounds. Did you happen to shoot any?
    Kahr P380
    Kahr K9
    Kahr CM45
    Sig P938
    XDS-9mm 3.3
    1911 Stainless Range Officer 9mm
    M&P 9mm

    Topgun1953 not because I shoot well but because I fly for fun, too.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,329

    Default

    Grease up the guide rod with a generous amount of Auto Chassis Grease. It works wonders on those small double springs.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Near the Gila Mountains in SW AZ.
    Posts
    4,148

    Default

    Once that guide rod is seated in the frame, I doubt it is causing any damage to the the area in question as the recoil springs are holding it in place (if the springs are installed correctly). Greasing up the guide rod as suggested by Ikeo74 certainly wouldn't hurt.
    Correct spring installation, open end of spring towards the muzzle:

    Even if the recoil springs were weak, I doubt the slide is causing any deformation (though I might hedge my bet with heavy loads).
    Seriously shortened springs might be another matter.
    Recoil springs are cheap enough and should be considered consumables.

    Still, after reading the following...

    Quote Originally Posted by boscobarbell View Post
    After my previous ordeal with the guide rod sticking was solved by a bit of dremel work to the frame "pocket" for that part, I had an awesome range trip during which my pistol happily digested a few different defensive rounds, and seemed to particularly like Hornady CD. I was so happy that I immediately (i.e. without disassembling or cleaning) brought it to my LGS for night sights.

    I picked it up today...the slide with its new sights were off the pistol in the box (as returned by the gunsmith who did the work). Wouldn't you know it, but neither I nor the LGS owner could put the damn thing back together. It was hanging up well before the point where the slide lock could be inserted. After a number of attempts, I tried to see the guide rod into that frame pocket and...sure enough...the guide rod wouldn't fit! And I don't mean it was just snug...it wouldn't go regardless of how much force I used.

    Obviously, putting those rounds downrange were enough to warp/shift/otherwise close that aperture. I took it home and used my dremel again so it would seat properly, but I AM NOT a happy camper about this issue.

    Man, I want to love Kahrs so badly, but I think about my long ownership of Glocks/Sigs/etc that don't require this level of TLC or repairs and wonder....
    A
    ....might I suggest that the gunsmith did the deed while trying to reassemble the pistol.

    Regards,
    Greg
    [<a href=http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif target=_blank>http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif</a>

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    154

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by topgun1953 View Post
    I don't have proof positive evidence, but I was thinking that my guide rod chewed up the frame where it seats after I fired a bunch of +P rounds. Did you happen to shoot any?
    No, no +P through it. The Underwood and Fiocchi rounds are a bit hot, though.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    154

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gb6491 View Post

    ....might I suggest that the gunsmith did the deed while trying to reassemble the pistol.

    Regards,
    Greg
    Yes, the thought occurred to me, and I mentioned it to the LGS owner. I'm headed back there tomorrow to discuss what i found.

    I wonder what on earth he could have done to make that occur...very curious.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    1,329

    Default

    Better check those springs! It looks like 1 of them is in backwards and that would cause the exact problem you are having, They need to coil in opposite directions of each other. I think it is covered in the owners manual. When the springs are put in wrong they bind on each othar each time you fire a round. That would explane the damage that you are seeing to the guide rod and frame.

    Edit: Maybe they are not put in wrong according to the manual they look OK. Owners manual here: See page 20: http://www.kahr.com/PDF/kahrmanual.pdf

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,329

    Default

    I edited my post, the springs may be OK. Provided a link to the owners manual see page 20. http://www.kahr.com/PDF/kahrmanual.pdf

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    154

    Default

    Okay...just double-checked the nested springs, and confirmed that they are coiling opposite directions, and that the open end points towards the muzzle. Also vigorously greased the guide rod and put Eezox on the springs.

    Here's where the problem currently stands: with the dremel work done, I can now reassemble the pistol. However, I definitely feel a slight binding when I retract the slide, and if I do it slowly a very small part of the guide rod remains protruding (maybe an eighth of an inch). If I cycle it vigorously (and let the slide slam back) that tip disappears. Also, when I cycle it slowly the trigger does not feel the same. Hard to describe, but the trigger break sounds tinny, and it seems like there is a slight obstruction. When cycled vigorously, however, the trigger break feels like it did before this problem.

    Again, I'm mystified.

    Edited to add: Just took another look, and realized that, when cycled slowly, the slide does not return all the way forward (which accounts for the odd trigger break). So it's not the guide rod sticking you...its the slide not cycling all the way back. It is being obstructed somewhere, but an examination of the frame and slide didn't reveal any obvious flaws or obstructions.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Near the Gila Mountains in SW AZ.
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    4,148

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by boscobarbell View Post
    Okay...just double-checked the nested springs, and confirmed that they are coiling opposite directions, and that the open end points towards the muzzle. Also vigorously greased the guide rod and put Eezox on the springs.

    Here's where the problem currently stands: with the dremel work done, I can now reassemble the pistol. However, I definitely feel a slight binding when I retract the slide, and if I do it slowly a very small part of the guide rod remains protruding (maybe an eighth of an inch). If I cycle it vigorously (and let the slide slam back) that tip disappears. Also, when I cycle it slowly the trigger does not feel the same. Hard to describe, but the trigger break sounds tinny, and it seems like there is a slight obstruction. When cycled vigorously, however, the trigger break feels like it did before this problem.

    Again, I'm mystified.
    My P380 does that if I cycle it slowly, but it's only because the slide isn't in full battery. When slowly cycling the slide (robbing it of momentum), it reaches a point where it doesn't travel any further by spring pressure; at that point a little push on the back of the slide will put it into battery. If the slide it out of battery when you pull the trigger it will feel different.
    Regards,
    Greg
    [<a href=http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif target=_blank>http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif</a>

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