CM9 rear slide plate removal

[Bawanna]

I'll second that. That's an incredible smart solution.
I got a whole drawer full of used up dremel bits.

[drw]

Thanks for the info Greg. I ordered two from Kahr yesterday as I needed to order some recoil springs and a few other parts.

[skiflydive]

If you have the tools (a measuring device, a file and a Dremel tool...possibly a 1/8" drill bit) it wouldn't be difficult to make one.
The rear pin from my CW9 measures .126" in diameter and .453" in length. The pin is slightly chamfered on both ends.

An 1/8 drill bit measures .125" in diameter. I found a Dremel bit with a shaft that has a .126" diameter. Once cut to length, I believe either would make a satisfactory replacement for the rear extractor pin. A chamfer could be done on the cut ends by putting the piece in the Dremel tool's chuck and filing the bevel as the piece turns. Slightly rounding the edges would probably be just as effective as a chamfer.
Regards,
Greg

There's a potential issue with this though. In my P380 the total stack of the back pin, the spring, and the front pin is 1.878" (with no compression of the spring.) The total in my CW380 is 1.913. Not much difference BUT, in the P the back pin is .520" and the CW it's .439. The spring is .648 in the P and .764 in the CW. I'm wondering if it makes sense to cut the back pin length to make the total stack something in that 1.878-1.913 range? BTW I was having extractor issues in the CW380 and reduced the back pin length .020 to reduce the spring tension a little. It runs fine now.

[gb6491]

There's a potential issue with this though. In my P380 the total stack of the back pin, the spring, and the front pin is 1.878" (with no compression of the spring.) The total in my CW380 is 1.913. Not much difference BUT, in the P the back pin is .520" and the CW it's .439. The spring is .648 in the P and .764 in the CW. I'm wondering if it makes sense to cut the back pin length to make the total stack something in that 1.878-1.913 range? BTW I was having extractor issues in the CW380 and reduced the back pin length .020 to reduce the spring tension a little. It runs fine now.

skiflydive,
It's good that you brought that up
I remember a member writing that he had done as you have, shortening the rear pin, to get his CW45 working correctly.
By making your own rear pins: you can experiment to see what works best in your own particular pistol.
Regards,
Greg

[drw]

skiflydive,
It's good that you brought that up
I remember a member writing that he had done as you have, shortening the rear pin, to get his CW45 working correctly.
By making your own rear pins: you can experiment to see what works best in your own particular pistol.
Regards,
Greg

I never thought of this.....I have been experimenting with filing the extractor.....will give this a try... thanks

[zuidema16]

Ok I tried removing the extractor then the pin and the spring.
That went well however the pin in the back plate will not move.
Lite tapping does no good...am I screwed? Used cm9 functions
Perfect or did.

[topgun1953]

If you are trying to depress the pin through the opening in the back plate, look closely at the opening. The hole that extends to the pin is smaller than the opening in the plate. Greg posted some pictures around here somewhere.

[gb6491]

If you are trying to depress the pin through the opening in the back plate, look closely at the opening. The hole that extends to the pin is smaller than the opening in the plate. Greg posted some pictures around here somewhere.

Thanks for remembering that Topgun1953!

Regards,
Greg

[yqtszhj]

I want to be Greg when I grow up. Live near the desert, have a cool old jeep, be a master tinkerer, and the ability to post a pictorial explanation at the speed of a bullet.