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Thread: CM9 rear slide plate removal

  1. #1

    Default CM9 rear slide plate removal

    I bought a used CM9 slide and could not get the back plate off to clean the firing pin channel. I could not get the rod in the small extractor hole to push down to remove the back plate. I assumed the extractor hole was clogged with dirt so I soaked the whole slide in mineral spirits over night. Still could not get the pin to depress to remove the back plate. I then pushed the front extractor pin back into the hole and removed the extractor. I then removed the front extractor pin but the spring would not come out. I finally shot penetrating oil into the hole tapped the slide on a block of wood and he spring came out. The rear plate came out but there was no rear extractor pin in the hole. I assumed someone removed it and never replaced it. When I had my small punch in the hole, it was going into the spring and not depressing it. I am going to have to buy the new rear extractor pin.

  2. #2
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    Could be the person before you lost it. I can't remember if the front or rear pin is the smallest.

    Just out of curiosity, did you have any fail to extract issues with that pin missing?
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by yqtszhj View Post
    Could be the person before you lost it. I can't remember if the front or rear pin is the smallest.

    Just out of curiosity, did you have any fail to extract issues with that pin missing?

    I have never used the slide. It is the smaller pin at the back under the back plate that is missing.
    I bought the slide to shoot cast lead bullets and have not used it as of yet.

  4. #4
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    It's that rear extractor rod that holds the backplate on. You say that you removed the extractor first somehow, before removing the backplate?
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    I have never done this, but, out of curiosity, I tried to move the pin holding the extractor rearward by inserting a tiny screwdriver between the pin and the extractor. While I did not remove the extractor, it was clearly so easy that it would not have been difficult. This might be a good alternative way to remove the back plate, if some problem arose.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobshouse View Post
    It's that rear extractor rod that holds the backplate on. You say that you removed the extractor first somehow, before removing the backplate?
    Yes, I did remover the extractor before taking off the back plate. Just push the front extractor pin up into the channel and flip the extractor out.......and I did not have any upper extractor pin in the hole....just the spring and the lower larger extractor rod.

    I did use the ripley coat hanger spring detent to hold the striker rod/spring in place while I was trying to punch the extractor pin from under the back plate.
    Last edited by drw; 10-30-2017 at 12:37 PM. Reason: more informaton

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by finpro View Post
    I have never done this, but, out of curiosity, I tried to move the pin holding the extractor rearward by inserting a tiny screwdriver between the pin and the extractor. While I did not remove the extractor, it was clearly so easy that it would not have been difficult. This might be a good alternative way to remove the back plate, if some problem arose.
    I had that exact same thought. That would take all the pressure off the extractor chain. Still have to catch the striker but that would be much easier as you wouldn't have to focus so much on pushing the pin down to slide the cover off.
    We'd best patent this procedure right quick, might be onto something.
    http://bawanna45.wix.com/bawannas-grip-emporium#!
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by drw View Post
    ..... I am going to have to buy the new rear extractor pin.
    If you have the tools (a measuring device, a file and a Dremel tool...possibly a 1/8" drill bit) it wouldn't be difficult to make one.
    The rear pin from my CW9 measures .126" in diameter and .453" in length. The pin is slightly chamfered on both ends.

    An 1/8 drill bit measures .125" in diameter. I found a Dremel bit with a shaft that has a .126" diameter. Once cut to length, I believe either would make a satisfactory replacement for the rear extractor pin. A chamfer could be done on the cut ends by putting the piece in the Dremel tool's chuck and filing the bevel as the piece turns. Slightly rounding the edges would probably be just as effective as a chamfer.
    Regards,
    Greg
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bawanna View Post
    I had that exact same thought. That would take all the pressure off the extractor chain. Still have to catch the striker but that would be much easier as you wouldn't have to focus so much on pushing the pin down to slide the cover off.
    We'd best patent this procedure right quick, might be onto something.
    Now known as the "drw Process".

    hows that sound?
    The only thing better than having all the guns and ammo you'd ever need would be being able to shoot it all off the back porch.

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by gb6491 View Post
    If you have the tools (a measuring device, a file and a Dremel tool...possibly a 1/8" drill bit) it wouldn't be difficult to make one.
    The rear pin from my CW9 measures .126" in diameter and .453" in length. The pin is slightly chamfered on both ends.

    An 1/8 drill bit measures .125" in diameter. I found a Dremel bit with a shaft that has a .126" diameter. Once cut to length, I believe either would make a satisfactory replacement for the rear extractor pin. A chamfer could be done on the cut ends by putting the piece in the Dremel tool's chuck and filing the bevel as the piece turns. Slightly rounding the edges would probably be just as effective as a chamfer.
    Regards,
    Greg
    Greg never ceases to amaze me. Thats a nifty, fast, and money saving idea.
    The only thing better than having all the guns and ammo you'd ever need would be being able to shoot it all off the back porch.

    Want to see what will be the end of our country as we know it???
    Visit here:
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