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Thread: Well, I bought a used MK9.....

  1. #1

    Default Well, I bought a used MK9.....

    I bought a used MK9 off gunbroker and TOTALLY didn't do my homework on differences in the frames. It's not here yet, but I already have wood grips on the way as well. Annnnd now I find out there's a difference in the frames and the grips may not fit. I'm hoping this is a dremel type deal and not a "these won't fit no matter what" deal. It's a serial number Ga39xx so I was KINDA holding out hope they had changed extremely late in that cycle. LOL!!


    Anyway. All help would be appreciated. I was also wondering. If this model doesn't have the "elite" trigger what's the difference? If the weight is the same and still smooth with the length of pull being a bit longer I don't really have a problem with that. However, if it's more than that is there a set of parts I can buy to "upgrade" it myself?

    Thanks in advance. Usually I don't make purchases like this, but I got a bit of the Kahr bug. After Buying a P9 a couple months ago I bought a P45 3 weeks ago and now this MK9 on a whim.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    Default

    I may be mistaken, but I think Bawanna(a member here) can make wood grips for the GA series pistols.

  3. #3
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    How do you know they won't fit before the gun shows up. There's a chance they won't, I'll grant you that. Seems I've heard it only requires a little bit of wood removal to make the new style fit but it's been awhile so I'm not certain.

    I've been reluctant to make these grips since they are a bit complicated and the frustration over the frame differences but if they don't fit we'll see what I can do.

    The MK I borrow is an GA prefix so generally mine fit but again not always.

    You should be fine on the trigger, they are really smooth and most can't tell the difference between the elite and non elite.

    My best advise is don't worry till you got something to worry about and then don't worry anyhow since it don't do a lick of good. Just gives you ulcers and keeps you awake at night. Plenty of help here to get you where ever you want to go with that MK.

    Like to get my own MK one of these days. Maybe a new one so I can compare it to the old one I borrow. Speaking of which I've had it for at least 6 months, I better check with the owner and see if he wants to visit it.
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

    "If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."

  4. #4
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    The MK model came with the shorter "elite" trigger as standard. Only the K models had different triggers depending on specific model and/or year of manufacture.
    Judging by today's left wing, looks like Senator Joe McCarthy was right after all.

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks for the replies! From what I was reading and from what you guys have said it sounds like at most I will have to do a little dremel work on the back side of the grips. The only reason I was wondering was if it had to do with a thickness thing. Meaning if the metal frame was thicker then the wood grips would not reach all the way around the back.

    On the trigger, it sounds like it's much ado about nothing since, from what I understand, even if it wasn't an elite trigger I'd simply be looking at a longer pull with the same smoothness and weight. Which the long smooth DA style pull is the whole reason I like Kahr and have now bought 3 in 3 months for CCW. I feel safer when my wife carries a Kahr over either a SA striker with or without a safety to make things simple but safe during a high stress situation.

    It also doesn't hurt that I shoot them EXTREMELY well. LOL! More than likely there will be a T9 and a K9 in my future.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by lantern View Post
    Thanks for the replies! From what I was reading and from what you guys have said it sounds like at most I will have to do a little dremel work on the back side of the grips. The only reason I was wondering was if it had to do with a thickness thing. Meaning if the metal frame was thicker then the wood grips would not reach all the way around the back.....

    Grips cut for the frame on the right will need to have material removed at the top screw hole for them to work on the older style frame. Some grips have enough thickness for this to be successfully done. Others will be too thin and there will not be enough material left to support the screw's function.

    Regards,
    Greg
    Last edited by gb6491; 01-03-2018 at 06:21 PM.
    [<a href=http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif target=_blank>http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif</a>

  7. #7
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    Dang that picture helps a ton Greg. Wonder why I never seen that before, wasn't looking hard enough I guess.

    I wonder why they did that? I don't see any benefit to it and another machining step required. I suspect maybe it was to create a mechanical lock so the grip wouldn't rock even if the screws were lose or gone.

    That's a simple fix provided as you mentioned there is enough wood left to support top screw. Working a solution in my small mind as we speak.
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

    "If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    If you look back at some of the old MK threads, the grip thing was gone over extensively. The older MK's just don't have enough metal to work with. I own an LTD serial# and tried many MK grips when one of our members was developing his own. The older model MK's are very difficult to make grips for, because there is not enough metal to work with. You will either have screw fitment issues, where after Dremeling/sanding, the grip will be too thin. Or the screw holes will be just a smidge off in alignment/distance. I don't know why Kahr was making these design/grip changes at the time. Serial#'s GA, GC, LTD, all different. Like the Boss said, you have to do too much removal of metal, and it becomes very thin in that area. Either the metal becomes too thin, or the grip becomes too thin. You would think that it would be easy to solve, but as many have found out, it's not.

  9. #9
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    I'm not following Beretta. There's much more metal on the older MK's than the new. They machined away a little strip and added to the grip.
    After looking here earlier I went and found a set of the plastic grips for a new style MK. There is a little extra tab to fit that machined out channel.

    On the plastic, if I removed the tab to fit my borrowed older MK there wouldn't be anything for the top grip screw to ride on, just a hole. Not enough material to inlay a piece and make a new mounting hole.

    On the wood there might be enough. Many complain that the wood grips are too thick. I've thinned down many of them easily.

    I've entertained the idea of installing 1911 bushings on an MK or a K but I think even with the thin bushings I'd have to add too much thickness to the grip.

    I'm still pondering this. I'm sure Alfonse is toying with this, be nice to make a grip that would fit both new and old with just a little piece added or taken away. It's not like we're inventing the donut or anything.
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

    "If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."

  10. #10

    Default

    This is an amazing help!!! Thank you so much!! And to everyone else thanks as well!!
    Quote Originally Posted by gb6491 View Post

    Grips cut for the frame on the right will need to have material removed at the top screw hole for them to work on the older style frame. Some grips have enough thickness for this to be successfully done. Others will be too thin and there will not be enough material left to support the screw's function.

    Regards,
    Greg

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