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Thread: New cw380 first shots

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    138

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    I bought a P9 when they first came out and it had extraction issues. I communicated with Kahr and the gunsmith, Larry Meyer, informed me that extractor tunnel hardware might the cause by putting incorrect tension on the extractor. He suggested returning the gun, but I explained I had owned an MK9 and was familiar with working on Kahrs and thought I could fix it myself with the replacement parts and did not want to be without the gun for the estimated turnaround time. He kindly sent me all of the parts involved, including a new polished extractor, plus a replacement recoil spring. Replacing the parts instantly solved the extraction problems. Extractor tension can be a source of problems, as it apparently was in my case some 15 years ago.
    There can be other possible causes for problems, of course. Someone told me he never made the same mistake twice, as he quickly went on to bigger and better mistakes. Maybe that is the case here.

  2. #22

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    The extractor tunnel hardware is cheap. I’d consider ordering and replacing that first before grinding any metal. I’d the have spare for when I mess up grinding which is inevitable.


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  3. #23

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    I ordered all new factory extractor hardware from midway. With shipping it was under $8. I didn’t get the spring because I figured I can make the length work with the hard parts. I can’t wait to measure them against the original one to see how big a variance there is. If they are shorter overall I’ll just install them and try it without grinding.


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  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    231

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    I ordered all new factory extractor hardware from midway. With shipping it was under $8. I didn’t get the spring because I figured I can make the length work with the hard parts. I can’t wait to measure them against the original one to see how big a variance there is. If they are shorter overall I’ll just install them and try it without grinding.
    If you do have to shorten the rear pin just file a little at a time. You really don't have to remove that much metal at all, you'll be surprised. I don't recommend messing with the front pin at all. If you have never taken the rear slide plate off a striker fired pistol before, be careful. If you don't, you have springs, striker guides and pins all over the place.

  5. #25

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    Thanks for the tip. I only got the front one thinking that if the overall measurements are shorter, I’d be able to install it all without trimming.


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  6. #26

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    Markman, to clarify did you reshape your extractor at all or just change the tension on it?


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  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    231

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    Markman, to clarify did you reshape your extractor at all or just change the tension on it?
    Actually I read your question wrong the first time. I radius the bottom of the extractor a little bit. Just enough so it doesn't bite into the brass case. I believe there is a YouTube video where a guy shows how to do it on a Kahr pistol.

  8. #28

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    Thanks. Also when you get time if you could post the photos of how you used the scale to measure extractor tension.


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  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    231

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    I’ll try to get that tomorrow.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    341

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    I reduced the extractor tension in my P380 by clipping about three coils off the spring. Not saying that's the best course of action, but it worked for me. I also slightly rounded the bottom edge of the extractor hook where it was very sharp. To date the only ammo that still gives me any FTF issues is Fiocchi, and since that is a known problem child in Kahr .380s I simply shoot it in my Glock 42 instead.

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