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Thread: Cerakote a "Beater" or not?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    130

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    Quote Originally Posted by leftysixty View Post
    Walnut shells are good, glass beads work well, both should be used in a blast box! Places like Harbor Freight have small, inexpensive versions. Given a small air compressor, a small oven, airbrush, and small spray gun you will be able to do all kinds of small polishing/refinishing projects!

    PS,
    I've been doing this kind of stuff for 'bout 60 years now! Enjoy your projects!
    Thanks leftysixty! I love me some Harbor Freight! I've got everything but a box. I did a frame on restoration of a '69 Vette (in a .8 car garage...TINY) and still have that stuff left over. Can't wait to do this one. Thanks again!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Near the Gila Mountains in SW AZ.
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    I mostly use 70 grit black aluminum oxide and #8 glass bead. The 70 grit worked well to remove a hard paint from my buddy's Walther PP slide.
    Regards,
    Greg
    [<a href=http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif target=_blank>http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif</a>

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    La Habra, California
    Posts
    60

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    Quote Originally Posted by BirdsThaWord View Post
    Should I spend a bit having it proffesionally cerakoted, knowing I'll then have more in it than it's ever going to be worth, or just try to abate oxidation and keep it as a "beater".
    I bought a new Rock Island years go, just because I was curious and it was cheap. I didn't like it as much as a GOOD 1911, so I did a trigger job, added an ambidextrous safety, and milled it for Truglo's. When I was done, I had a well-polished turd. The time and money I threw at it was a waste, because I still don't like the gun.

    I wouldn't throw a lot of cash at your Iver Johnson. But, there are some inexpensive options to spiffy it up, if you're willing to do the work. Regardless of what you choose, you'll have to get rid of the existing bluing, take out the dings, and polish the surfaces. Parkerizing is really cheap and easy. It's like cooking a pot of Top Ramen on the stove. Easy peasy. I've also played with Duracoat. It's a two-part spray that comes in a rattle can. My one job looks very good. I don't treat it rough, so I don't know how durable it is.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Wet & Wild Pacific NW
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    27,923

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    How can one not love a 1911? I know a few that love their Rocks.
    http://bawanna45.wix.com/bawannas-grip-emporium#!
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

  5. #15
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    Jan 2010
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    Near the Gila Mountains in SW AZ.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bawanna View Post
    How can one not love a 1911? I know a few that love their Rocks.
    I'm one of those (though mine is a 9):

    Regards,
    Greg
    [<a href=http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif target=_blank>http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif</a>

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    130

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    Greg, I will follow your lead sir! Given the pics you showed me, I would be a dumb dumb not to! Thanks!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    130

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    Greg: Other than a Kimber and that IJ all of mine are 9's. I love 'em!!!! I can also double tap with them and hit somewhat close, but not with a .45.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    130

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    RustyIron: Ifeel you! When I just started into guns I overspent as well. These days, about 90% of what I ever do is finish work (polishing). I'll buy sights, grips, triggers, etc, but only if I got a steal of a deal on the gun. It's so easy to go overboard though!!!! Greg just opened up a new world for me though. The finish he showed me, and how simple the instructions, makes for something I've got to do. It will be a while, but I will definitely post results as I get it underway.

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