Cw380 going back to kahr

[markman]

While I do believe the radiusing of the extractor hook to be excellent modification and a must, I also believe the excessive tension of the extractor to be the biggest problem. I also believe that messing with the "trunion" is not a good idea, for the reasons you mentioned. It's also possible to have too much rim clearance if you have a cartridge at the other end of the spectrum with a very narrow rim. The easiest and best way to reduce the extractor tension is to shorten the rear pin. And if you mess it up and shorten it too much, a new pin is about $2.00.

Yes, the radius'ing of the extractor hook is the current mod that has proven to be the most reliable, more so than the narrowing of the trunion that is in the stickied thread.
The trunion mod has caused some extractor breakage, possibly because of bad execution...

I mentioned the hook mod early/often in the stickied thread but was poopoo'ed by the OP, but now seems to be the "factory fix"
http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.p...032#post362032

http://www.kahrtalk.com/showthread.p...058#post362058

[vinnier6]

I will stay optimistic and can’t wait to get it back...it’s such a great size, I just need it to work

[boscobarbell]

The easiest and best way to reduce the extractor tension is to shorten the rear pin. And if you mess it up and shorten it too much, a new pin is about $2.00.

Is there a video for this?

[Lineman101]

I did file just a smidge to the extractor. Not as much shown in the video. I also took off .015 as communicated in the other thread. I’m happy to report that Fiocchi will now load. My P380 is also the California model with the indicator. It seems that the indicator is ridding high and seems to be a little more noticeable...? Anyway, I’m feeling good about CCWing this weapon.
My p380 will now chamber:
PPU
HPR
Fiocchi
WWB
PMC Bronze
these seemed to be problematic.

[markman]

Not that I'm aware of. There are however, video's on how to dissemble the Kahr slide. The back extractor pin is right underneath the slide back. It is actually the pin you depress to get the back off. But before I would take it apart, I would certainly measure the tension to verify if it is too much.

Is there a video for this?

[boscobarbell]

Not that I'm aware of. There are however, video's on how to dissemble the Kahr slide. The back extractor pin is right underneath the slide back. It is actually the pin you depress to get the back off. But before I would take it apart, I would certainly measure the tension to verify if it is too much.

Okay...that makes perfect sense. (I've disassembled a couple of Kahrs in the past.). Should one file the front or rear part of that pin?

[markman]

I don't suppose it would make that much difference, as I've never seen that much difference in the ones I've done. In all the ones I've done, you'd be surprised on how little you have to remove. I always knock the edges off the end I shorten and I will put that end against the cover when I assemble it. That also probably wouldn't make that much difference, but I do it anyway. I'm sure there are other ways to do it, but I've found that if I use a small set of locking needle nose pliers to hold the pin it makes it much easier to work with.

Should one file the front or rear part of that pin?

[boscobarbell]

I don't suppose it would make that much difference, as I've never seen that much difference in the ones I've done. In all the ones I've done, you'd be surprised on how little you have to remove. I always knock the edges off the end I shorten and I will put that end against the cover when I assemble it. That also probably wouldn't make that much difference, but I do it anyway. I'm sure there are other ways to do it, but I've found that if I use a small set of locking needle nose pliers to hold the pin it makes it much easier to work with.

Good tips. Fingers crossed, I won't have to actually do any of this if my P380 functions after a typical break-in, but it's good to know there are options should I be unlucky with the new one.

Thanks!

[boscobarbell]

Another question: what is the overall recommended length of the extractor pin on a P380?

When I break mine down for cleaning, I intend to measure it to see how close I am to the "sweet spot" length that sets the extractor to the correct tension.

Thanks....

[markman]

Their is no " recommended length". That's why you measure the tension and if needed shorten the pin until you achieve the proper tension. What ever that ends up being is the proper length. I posted this in another thread:

"Tolerance stacking, you have at least 5 components in the extractor chain. The slide, rear cover, rear pin, spring and extractor. All of them are manufactured/machined with in a certain tolerance. It is physically impossible to have all the parts the exact same size every time, even today. If many are at the small or large end of the tolerances that where the stacking becomes involved. Just look how people are getting results by just removing small amounts of metal! I would have to believe that's what causes most FTF/ FTX problems . That's why most people don't have problems but some do"

"That's also the reason I won't just measure the whole assembly and compare it to others. Like I explained earlier with the tolerance stacking. Your not taking into account the spring rates, pocket depth in the rear slide cover, the location of the pocket machined in the slide where the extractor pivots, etc etc etc. It's too dam easy just to measure the tension. On the tension, I try to get it as close as possible without getting anal."

Another question: what is the overall recommended length of the extractor pin on a P380?

When I break mine down for cleaning, I intend to measure it to see how close I am to the "sweet spot" length that sets the extractor to the correct tension.

Thanks....