Magnum Research new   Tommy Gun   Xssights   Tommy Gun Shop
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13

Thread: K-9 Stripper Bar

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Jax, Fla
    Posts
    5,581

    Default K-9 Stripper Bar

    My K-9 has an issue with feeding occasionally. I had a similar issue with my PM45, which needed the stripper bar beveled off. It was easy to do, and the pistol functioned perfectly afterward.

    I notice that my K-9's stripper bar is a sharp right angle, while my CW9's is rounded over.

    Should I dremel my K-9's bar to match the CW9?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Wet & Wild Pacific NW
    Posts
    32,547

    Default

    I would lean more towards bevel than round. Round might provide enough for the case to slip into place basically accomplishing the same thing. So a bevel with slightly rounded corners.

    Don't think it needs a whole lot either way you go.

    Hope this makes sense, it works in my head but reading it, I don't get it either.
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

    "If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Jax, Fla
    Posts
    5,581

    Default

    The CW9 is definitely rounded, but the bevel worked on the 45. I guess I could start with a bevel and round it if needed.

    If any K-9 owners could examine theirs and let me know what you have, that'd be awesome. If you detail strip the slide, it's the long protrusion down the middle that strips the top round out of the mag as the slide moves forward.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Near the Gila Mountains in SW AZ.
    Posts
    5,553

    Default

    The rail on my K9 has a slight bevel on it:

    It's kind of difficult to get a photo of it with my phone and it doesn't help that corners of the the rail have burrs/damage on them.

    Regards,
    Greg
    [<a href=http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif target=_blank>http://i43.tinypic.com/2n7fnux.gif</a>

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Metro-Atlanta
    Posts
    79

    Default

    "Rounded" can be changed to a "bevel" if necessary; the reverse is not true.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Jax, Fla
    Posts
    5,581

    Default

    Thanks Greg, I think I'll give mine a little buzz.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    981

    Default

    Mine (SN BF09XX) has a shallower bevel than Greg's. For what it's worth it looks like the rail was beveled before the final mill cut on the top of the rail.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    134

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Linthead View Post
    "Rounded" can be changed to a "bevel" if necessary; the reverse is not true.
    I thought the same thing, being a machinist for the last 26 years, but I would not put much of a radius on it, otherwise you will end up with a huge bevel.
    Today is the first day of the rest of your life.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    212

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Linthead View Post
    "Rounded" can be changed to a "bevel" if necessary; the reverse is not true.
    Quote Originally Posted by ct9kahrtoter View Post
    I thought the same thing, being a machinist for the last 26 years, but I would not put much of a radius on it, otherwise you will end up with a huge bevel.
    I had to think about both those comments...

    I believe a bevel can in fact be changed to rounded -- and vice versa -- as long as you're willing to remove more metal, that is.

    In this image I created, the red dashed lines are the "before" profile, while the blue mass is the "after". Either way, you're taking more metal off the edge to change the profile.



    Based on this, I wouldn't alter my gun at all; I'd change the loads and lube it well per the "Kahr Prep Info" and should the heck out of it.

    I'm hearing my late father's words (2nd-generation locksmith and machinist) ringing in my head: "Remember kid, the take-off metal tools work much better than the put-on metal tricks."

    Old No7
    "Freedom and the Second Amendment... One cannot exist without the other." © 2000 DTH

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Wet & Wild Pacific NW
    Posts
    32,547

    Default

    The whole issue is just to get that stripper bar (sounds like a nice place to go huh?) behind the cartridge case.
    Years ago this was an issue quite frequently, don't hear much about it last few years.
    It doesn't take much at all, and may not need it. Lock the slide back, insert a loaded mag and see if the case is in front of the stripper or under it. If it's under you need a bit of bevel. Especially if you load with the slide lock. If you sling shot you got a better chance of getting the slide back enough to catch the case.

    I agree with Old No 7 and his father, don't mess with it unless you have to.
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

    "If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Crimsontrace   CrossBreed Holsters   Mitch Rosen   Kahr Shop