The curse of the guide rod...

[dao]

BTW kjorg, something occurred to me that might help you repeat your success on a regular basis, enabling you to keep your gun and enjoy it.

If you have a bench grinder you could relieve a very small amount of material around the radius of the forward end of your guide rod. And I do mean a very small amount, to extend the chamfer both inward toward the rod's center and rearward by 1/32" or so. This would make it easier to achieve the angle needed to allow the end to slip into the hole in the front of the dustcover as you compress the spring and try to seat the rid into the barrel lug. You just need to verify that at rest there is still enough material present behind the chamfer to keep the guiderod centered in the hole when the gun is fully in battery. It's not a risky experiment because guide rods are neither rare nor expensive so if you take a bit too much off the first time you can easily replace the guide rod.

Just be sure to smooth out and/or polish the new chamfer as much as you can after cutting it. Take it slow on the wheel to avoid taking too much material off and to prevent it from overheating. You're only looking to take a very, very thin slice of the metal away.

[kjorg]

Take it apart and put it together again. Quick before it changes its mind!

I don't have the courage.

[kjorg]

BTW kjorg, something occurred to me that might help you repeat your success on a regular basis, enabling you to keep your gun and enjoy it.

If you have a bench grinder you could relieve a very small amount of material around the radius of the forward end of your guide rod. And I do mean a very small amount, to extend the chamfer both inward toward the rod's center and rearward by 1/32" or so. This would make it easier to achieve the angle needed to allow the end to slip into the hole in the front of the dustcover as you compress the spring and try to seat the rid into the barrel lug. You just need to verify that at rest there is still enough material present behind the chamfer to keep the guiderod centered in the hole when the gun is fully in battery. It's not a risky experiment because guide rods are neither rare nor expensive so if you take a bit too much off the first time you can easily replace the guide rod.

Just be sure to smooth out and/or polish the new chamfer as much as you can after cutting it. Take it slow on the wheel to avoid taking too much material off and to prevent it from overheating. You're only looking to take a very, very thin slice of the metal away.

Dao, I appreciate the concern you've paid to my situation and the time it took to write up this latest post. I understand your directions and how extending the chamfer might help. But I don't have a bench grinder. I never learned much about tools.

[dao]

Well, your welcome.

[fsilber]

I'm not saying it was easy, but with my 23 year-old P9 and CT9 I could get the slide assembly reassembled with only a little fiddling.

When I bought a TP9-2 I struggled and struggled to get the recoil guide rod and spring back into the slide assembly.
I compared its guide rod to that on my CT9, and it was a tiny bit longer. Using the CT9 guide rod reassembly was much easier.
Both were already chamfered at the tip.

I ordered two new guide rods from Kahr -- a standard carbon-steel guide rod for the CT9/TP9/ST9 and a stainless steel guide rood intended for the all-steel T9.
The carbon steel rod they sent me matched that of my CT9, and it worked fine.

I'm wondering whether Kahr got a batch of guide rods that were too long and out-of-spec.

(The smooth stainless steel TP9 guide rod was squared off at the end; I suppose the chamfering on the T9 is done inside the slide.
I used a file and hand chamfered that stainless steel T9 guide rod, and it then worked in my CT9 and TP9-2. I'm thinking that with the smooth, shiny stainless steel guide rod the pistol will feel a bit smoother when racking it. Maybe it will even be a bit more reliable due to a little less friction in the slide motion.)

[dao]

Necessity. The Mother of Invention. Don't forget to smooth it out. So that it doesn't chew up the inside of the spring pocket on your slide.

[BirdsThaWord]

Take it apart and put it together again. Quick before it changes its mind!

Just read... Now that made me chuckle! 😂😂😂

[BirdsThaWord]

Reminds me of the first time re-assembling a Kimber 1911: was resigned to buying a new spring, but re-calculated angles off the cabinet, and found it perched on a ledge deep down the backside of my workbench.

Reminds me of a Beretta 92FS... There is a little cap under the grip, held in by a pin through the frame, that captures the mainspring. I was removing it as it had a lanyard loop and wanted to install a flat one. Once I tapped out the retaining pin I started to back out my punch and POW!!! That lanyard cap came out like a rocket and punched me right in the kisser. Gave me a fat/busted lip. Then had to search all over for that cap and the mainspring. Learned a few lessons that day. 😁

[dao]

^^^and a few new words too I'd wager.

[Bawanna]

Dao, I appreciate the concern you've paid to my situation and the time it took to write up this latest post. I understand your directions and how extending the chamfer might help. But I don't have a bench grinder. I never learned much about tools.

A decent file and a little care would get the job done just fine and dandy too. I generally opt for hand tools over power tools, I've found you can screw things up 10x faster with power tools.