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Thread: The curse of the guide rod...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    116

    Default The curse of the guide rod...

    Anyone else have trouble reassembling their ST 9 or similar? The guide rod just WON'T go back in. I've sanded the end of the rod, lubed it well, but the thing won't go. Maybe I'll have to send it back to Kahr for re-assembly each time I clean it. LOL.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    212

    Default

    In my experience, it's usually the front end of the recoil spring that's the culprit... And not the rod itself.

    Let's see if I can explain...

    Most recoil springs have the last two winds wound tightly and close on one end (resulting in an even, finished coil) -- and that end usually goes on the rod first; the other (front) end of the spring will typically have an open coil at the end, without the wound coils as on the other. On my Kahrs, if that end of the open coil is in the wrong position (think of a clock with 6 & 12 being lined up with the barrel) then it gets in the way of the rod. Sometimes if you look close (most of us don't look there when we do the assembly) you can see the tip of the spring coming out the dust cover or blocking it enough to stop the rod.

    Try assembling it with the open coil at the 6 o'clock position and if not, then try it 12:00, at 3:00 or at 9:00; one of those "clock" positions is bound to be easier than the others.

    Hope this helps. Let us know if this works for you.

    Old No7
    "Freedom and the Second Amendment... One cannot exist without the other." © 2000 DTH

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    116

    Default

    I ended up doing more work
    on the front of the guide rod to chamfer it. Now I can get it in a tad easier. IMHO Kahr ought to do this at the factory.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Wet & Wild Pacific NW
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    32,470

    Default

    I'm not familiar with the ST 9 but with regards to Old No 7's post I generally put the open end of the spring towards the barrel, so 6 oclock if the slide it upside down for assembly or 12 oclock if it's right side up.

    No issues with the spring trying to poke out the end of the slide.
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  5. #5

    Default

    From time to time my CW9 recoil spring tries to hang out the front of the slide as I reassemble.
    I now anticipate it and adjust the guide rod as I'm assembling, no problem.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    7,216

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kahrbrian View Post
    I ended up doing more work
    on the front of the guide rod to chamfer it. Now I can get it in a tad easier. IMHO Kahr ought to do this at the factory.
    The o’clock references above to help me a lot but also to your point about chamfering, my CW45 guide rod is definitely not a squared off blunt shape on the end. It has a little rounding or beveling on the edges. Not a lot but it’s obvious it’s not squared off. I believe the CW9 I had at one time was the same way.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    19

    Default

    I'm a new and thoroughly frustrated CT45 owner who cannot reassemble his Recoil Guide Assembly after doing an initial cleaning.

    A visual check of the lug into which it is inserted confirms that my Recoil Guide Rod is being blocked by my Recoil Guide Spring, with the Guide Rod angling down into the Spring and leaving a gap above itself. I've set the end point of my Spring to 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock (the recommendation of my owner's manual), and the result is the same.

    When I e-mailed Kahr, I was given a link to a video I'd seen.

    Without the Barrel in place, I can push the Guide Rod an inch and a half beyond the face of the lug, so strength is not the issue.

    Is there any other workaround of which you are aware? I'd greatly appreciate it.

    I want to love this gun but am nearing an eagerness to sell it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Near the Gila Mountains in SW AZ.
    Posts
    5,550

    Default

    kjorg,
    Is the end of your guide rod beveled as shown in this photo: https://www.personaldefenseworld.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2014/11/kahr-ct45-barrel.jpg or is squared off?
    IMO, being squared off makes installation much more difficult.

    Regards,
    Greg
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    2,067

    Default

    Also, it helps to use your ring and little finger to not only hold the spring and guide the rod into it's coils while using your thumb and forefinger to push the rod toward the front of the slide. And finally, also use your ring and little finder to pull the foward tip of the guiderod away from the barrel once it's in the lug in order to help the end of it go through the hole in the lug. It's tricky but once you get the hang of using those two fingers for multiple tasks the process goes pretty smoothly.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Al & Ms Gulf Coast
    Posts
    149

    Default

    It's the spring guys.


    One end of the spring forms a complete circle whereas the other end does not. The tip of the other end just dangles.

    *If you insert the guide rod into the frame of the gun (front) with the dangling spring end; it will reassemble with no issues (less meat on that end of the spring). This is the way Kahr depicts the orientation, btw.

    *If you insert the guide rod into the frame of the gun (front) with the circular spring end; you may find it impossible to get the rod to go into the hole (too much meat). You can however make it go in by turning the spring/guide rod as you attempt to insert it. There is a certain sweet spot and once you find it, it will go in with no issues.

    Ralph
    Last edited by Ralph III; 03-18-2022 at 04:09 PM.

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