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Thread: Modified CT380 Project

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    22

    Default Modified CT380 Project

    Before work (minus slide stop)


    First Generation before changes:
    1) Used grip panels from a Kimber Micro .380 (sanded down from .21" to .15") Drilled hole into grip/frame and tapped. Used a small hex screw with a homemade plastic bushing to hold it in place. Considered using a 1911 bushing but did not want to drill such a large hole and it would require a special tap. The screws hold very secure and i used liquid rubber gasket adhesive that can be easily removed under the grip panel.
    2) Added a beavertail from a Browning .380 1911 by cutting out a small section of material and drilling a few small mounting holes. Chopped the the grip safety portion off the beavertail (wanted to keep it couldn't make it work) drilled a few small holes and added some small roll pins that lined up with the mounting holes on the frame. Used PC-7 epoxy as glue and mounted/sanded flush.
    3) Undercut the trigger guard.
    4) Internally the extractor has been filed/sanded which vastly improved feeding. Before it was non stop FTE/FTF almost all fixed. Only issue is GECO 95gr .380 (very thick rim)
    5) Filed some sharp points on upper trigger that bit into my finger.



    Second Generation:
    Some things did/didn't work out.
    1) I undercut the trigger guard to deep into the grip part of the frame and it gave an odd grip sensation in my fingers. So i filled that in with PC-7 and cut more up into the trigger guard/mag release section.
    2) I originally cut a small section out of the trigger guard just under the trigger itself to make a resting place for my offhand (not pictured) and it didn't work as intended. Instead i filled it in with epoxy and added more epoxy to make a U-shaped impression. This worked out fantastic and improved my offhand grip. Normally i would put a piece of grip in this position.
    3) I wanted the grip panels to extend to the bottom of the frame. I replace the Kimber ones with Browning .380 1911 panels. Sanded them down from .21" to.15" and rounded of the top/bottom. Another nice advantage was the nub extending from the top of the left hand/offhand panel helped keep my thumb off the slide stop.
    4) Filed down the slide stop and rounded.
    5) The beavertail was nice but needed help. Cut the sharp point off, filled in the gap with PC-7. Drill holes, added some roll pins and built up PC-7 epoxy around it and sides of existing beavertail. Before the epoxy hardened i gripped the gun and allowed the epoxy to form around my hand, then sanded. The new beavertail looks wonky but it fits my hand perfectly.
    6) Dehorned/filed down all the sharp edges.







    Its still rough around the edges and needs some clean up work. Next step would be to cerakote the slide and frame. I am hoping were i added epoxy and sanded the frame that it can be etched/bead blasted to give it some texture or return it to the original polymer frame texture as it is to slick now. I also used MagGuts in the the primary mag which has worked great along with some other mag mods to improve last round hold open. I am not sure if this is an issue the serial number is covered by the grip panel. Plan is to cut a small section of the panel out with dremel and fill in with clear epoxy so the serial numbers can be seen.

    I love/hate this firearm. It has had so many issues it has been crazy trying to work them all out. I think i have them all worked out now. The last 2 range trips have been flaw free with about 300 rounds down range running various drills. Accuracy is excellent with some trigger training. While it is a .380 i feel confident in the ammo after alot of research Precsion One 90gr XTP and Underwood 65gr Xtreme Defender.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Round Rock, Texas
    Posts
    5,138

    Default

    That’s a very interesting project. It looks similar to my Colt Government .380, but without the hammer.
    Glad to hear you got it running smoothly now, and also that the Magguts work well.
    A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition
    -Rudyard Kipling

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    212

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Armybrat View Post
    That’s a very interesting project.
    Yes, I'd agree.

    Quote Originally Posted by Armybrat View Post
    Glad to hear you got it running smoothly now...
    Yup, I'd say that's more important than everything else you've done.

    Old No7
    "Freedom and the Second Amendment... One cannot exist without the other." © 2000 DTH

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    1,899

    Default

    Yes, interesting.

    muggsy: Let's face it, being shot by a .380 will ruin anyone's day.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    7,215

    Default

    I like the grip panel idea. I always end up using a hogue grip of some type on my micro guns to get more girth on the grip for my XL hands.

    The sharp points on the upper trigger that you filed, I have the same issue as you on my .380 and 9mm Kahrs. Did you just smooth down the point that pinches or actually round the whole portion off?
    The only thing better than having all the guns and ammo you'd ever need would be being able to shoot it all off the back porch.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Near the Gila Mountains in SW AZ.
    Posts
    5,550

    Default

    Ballsy move to start that project

    I like what you've done so far.

    As to texture:
    Are you going to paint the frame for an even color? If so, you might want to look at bed liner coatings or anti-slip coatings.
    Here's an a smooth plastic dish:

    Same dish with an anti-slip coating:

    The anti-slip I have leaves some light color specks in the finish, so here it with a flat black over it (I think satin might be a better choice):

    Here's the same type bowl with a rattle can bed liner:





    A quick Google search will bring up many examples of different type bed liner coatings being used after grip reductions.
    I like the anti slip, but for firearms, I would want something like Duracoat over it to make it less sensitive to chemicals.

    As long as your grips are removable, I don't think there is an issue. S&W has been covering the serial number on their revolvers for years with their "Target" grips.

    Regards,
    Greg
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Metro-Atlanta
    Posts
    79

    Default

    To quote the late great Arte Johnson, "Very interesting!".

    A 380 with the overall dimensions of a CM45 does not compute for me, but YMMV.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Wet & Wild Pacific NW
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    32,466

    Default

    I've been using Whataliner for texture. It's bed liner and they will sell small sample cans. I guess so many people were doing it they started advertising that it could be used for that. I think at first they were sending the small cans for free, not sure if they are still doing that, it's been awhile.

    It's an aggressive texture but it's flexible, has a little give to it, makes a nice grip.
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
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    RIP Muggsy & TMan

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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yqtszhj View Post
    I like the grip panel idea. I always end up using a hogue grip of some type on my micro guns to get more girth on the grip for my XL hands.

    The sharp points on the upper trigger that you filed, I have the same issue as you on my .380 and 9mm Kahrs. Did you just smooth down the point that pinches or actually round the whole portion off?
    I started off with a Hogue grip for my p365 that i cut down. It was ok but i wanted a fuller grip and Hogue grips can be sticky and cloth hangup on them. As for the trigger i just rounded off the point on the trigger finger side. Had to be super careful to not take much off.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Linthead View Post
    To quote the late great Arte Johnson, "Very interesting!".

    A 380 with the overall dimensions of a CM45 does not compute for me, but YMMV.
    While they are essentially the same height and length. When you factor in the width it makes a huge difference .75" vs 1.01". It doesn't seem like much but if you took a CM45 and sliced off 25% of it you be surprised how much it is. When you factor in a kydex holster my CT380 still falls under a inch in width.

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