new cw45, plastic wear?

[dudechevy]

I bought my first Kahr yesterday at a gun show. It is a CW45. As a matter of fact it is the first polymer gun I have ever owned. I took it out and shot it yesterday. I had a few problems like failure to feed, had a couple of misfires, and it will not feed hornady critical defense. Over all I was happy with its performance. I figured this was all a part of the break in period, and the Hornady I just shot other defense rounds thru it and it done fine. I shot about 100 to 150 rounds thru it.

When I got home I took it apart to clean it. I found quite a bit of polymer in the slide rails. So I started collecting it on a white cleaning pad. When looking at the plastic rails, there seams to be alot of wear to me. Then feeling of the stainless slide there are a few burs in the rails. Some it felt like they almost cut my fingers. I am planning on calling Kahr to see about sending the gun back.

Any thoughts about this? I am hoping this is not normal for Kahr's quality.

David

[yqtszhj]

First Welcome to the Forum. Everything you posted is about normal for breakin so far so no worries. Don't worry about that polymer so far it's normal during breakin. Everything should smooth out on your next range trip. Just shoot FMJ ammo until it's broken in. If you haven't seen these threads check these out:

Proper prep of a new Kahr
http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=1521

Proper lube diagram:
http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=308

I had a CW9 and current have a CM9. Both have ran very well so far for over 1800 rounds combined. I am looking at the CW45 for my next one so clean up your gun and let s know how the next trip goes. There is lots of help here if you run into any problems so enjoy your new gun and let the forum folks know if you run into any issues.

Welcome again.

[Markis82]

The slide does not ride on the polymer. The polymer rails just act as a guide to reassemble the slide. The slide rides on the steel inserts on the back end of the frame and the two steel inserts in the front lower part of the frame. What you saw is just a little rubbing off of the high spots of the polymer. You should see that rubbing tapering off the more you shoot. I don't think it is an issue. As mentioned earlier look at the lube and prep stickys. You might want to use gun grease on the barrel lug, under the inside of the slide were the barrel lug rubs, and the rails, until it is broken in. After it is broken in, you can switch back to regular gun oil or not. You can use some very fine emery cloth to remove any burs on the slide rails. Just remove the burs. Don't remove any other material.

[hardluk1]

Good info above.

[dudechevy]

The slide does not ride on the polymer. The polymer rails just act as a guide to reassemble the slide. The slide rides on the steel inserts on the back end of the frame and the two steel inserts in the front lower part of the frame. What you saw is just a little rubbing off of the high spots of the polymer. You should see that rubbing tapering off the more you shoot. I don't think it is an issue. As mentioned earlier look at the lube and prep stickys. You might want to use gun grease on the barrel lug, under the inside of the slide were the barrel lug rubs, and the rails, until it is broken in. After it is broken in, you can switch back to regular gun oil or not. You can use some very fine emery cloth to remove any burs on the slide rails. Just remove the burs. Don't remove any other material.


I followed your advise about deburring the slide. There was some slivers of metal I had to rip off. This gun should have never left the factory with burrs that big on it. I am a machinist by trade, and that would be a no no at any machining job. Then I use some fine scotchbrite to smooth out the remaining burrs.

Thanks for the advise. Will report back after I shoot it again.
David

[Markis82]

I followed your advise about deburring the slide. There was some slivers of metal I had to rip off. This gun should have never left the factory with burrs that big on it. I am a machinist by trade, and that would be a no no at any machining job. Then I use some fine scotchbrite to smooth out the remaining burrs.

Thanks for the advise. Will report back after I shoot it again.
DavidWell done. That should end your troubles. Now shoot the he11 out of that thing. They get better the more you shoot them. Enjoy!

[dudechevy]

I finally went back to the range today to try my CW45 after deburring, and giving it a proper cleaning. I shot roughly about 100 rounds today, so the total is well over 200 rounds thur the gun.

I had 2 failure to feeds, and 4 failure to eject. All were cleared easily with removing the mag, and racking the slide. I was and am still hoping to use this gun for my conceal carry weapon, but with this performance it is not even fun to shoot. I do love the weight and feel of the gun.

When I took the gun apart to clean it, it didn't have any polymer in the slide like it did the first time. Right now I am at a loss for what to do next other than to either keep shooting it, or send it back to Kahr, Do you guys have any suggestions?

David

[Bawanna]

Shooting good factory ammo?

[onalandline]

I finally went back to the range today to try my CW45 after deburring, and giving it a proper cleaning. I shot roughly about 100 rounds today, so the total is well over 200 rounds thur the gun.

I had 2 failure to feeds, and 4 failure to eject. All were cleared easily with removing the mag, and racking the slide. I was and am still hoping to use this gun for my conceal carry weapon, but with this performance it is not even fun to shoot. I do love the weight and feel of the gun.

When I took the gun apart to clean it, it didn't have any polymer in the slide like it did the first time. Right now I am at a loss for what to do next other than to either keep shooting it, or send it back to Kahr, Do you guys have any suggestions?

David


I'd have a discussion with Kahr customer service, and make sure you tell them that you purchased the Kahr for its reliability, and you are disappointed. They should be willing to help you out. They may want the gun back for inspection. I would not tell them about any sanding or filing. This should not be happening, and you should not have to file, sand, etc. anything for this pistol to work properly. Even after shooting it as many times as you have, it seems disappointing to be having the same problems. Good luck.

Edit: Q. What if after an initial break in period, I still have a feeding problem?

A. If after the break in period, a feeding problem still exists, you may wish to test different ammunition. If you continue to experience a problem, contact Kahr Customer Service at 508-795-3919 or e-mail at service@kahr.com.

[TucsonMTB]

For failures to extract, I'm in Bawanna's court. What brand of ammo are you using? Remember that Kahr does NOT recommend steel cased ammo and that a new gun often needs energetic ammo to work well, at least until the parts wear smooth.

For failures to feed, there are a lot of suggestions in this thread: http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=1612 titled "CW45 (and other poly 45): issues and fixes". If you feel like trying some of the things described, it can save you time, compared to shipping the gun back to Kahr.

For both issues, if you are willing to part with your pistol, contact Kahr - Phone: (508)795-3919 Email: service@kahr.com and if they don't offer to send a prepaid shipping label and want to see the gun, ask for one. Yes, I am echoing Mr. onalandline's advice here.

And, finally, the gun may just grow out of its teething pains with more rounds. Yes, at the cost of ammo these days, that is not a cheap solution. And, if the gun is really a pain to shoot, it might not be fun. But, I would be tempted to go another two or three hundred rounds myself. YMMV

[CJB]

De-burring the slide is a good thing! Pay particular attention to the half-moon cutout for the drawbar that acts as a disconnector notch.

I'd not emory the frame rails. Just take off any obvious flakes and wisps of polymer, and you're good to go... shoot it lots!

[dudechevy]

I have been shooting FMJ remington, and white box ammo during both trips. I don't shoot steel casses. From what yall have said so far, I am probubly going to call Kahr and see about sending it back.

I tell you I have the worst luck with new guns. I few months ago I bought a new Rock Island Armory 1911. The gun was tumbling and key holing. Had to send it back, they replaced the barrel and recoil spring. But now the gun functions wonderfully.

Thanks for the advise and help.

David

[dudechevy]

De-burring the slide is a good thing! Pay particular attention to the half-moon cutout for the drawbar that acts as a disconnector notch.

I'd not emory the frame rails. Just take off any obvious flakes and wisps of polymer, and you're good to go... shoot it lots!


what half moon cutout?

David

[kerby9mm]

Since you are a machinist why are the slide rails full of burrs? What caused that to happen? The inside of my mk pistols are smooth as smooth gets. I'm not sure when they were made but I think by serial # history thread the 9 about 3 years ago and the 40 could be 4 years ago. Was QC better back then or is there really a difference in the more expensive vs c series guns pertaing to the machining process. Bottom line is if the gun functions properly but it is nice to have the little details finished to perfection.

[CJB]

what half moon cutout?

David

as you hold the pistol.... right rear part of the slide... has a semicircular cut inside... at the frame rail area... the purpose of which is to allow the drawbar, which is acting as disconnector... to rise and "connect" the trigger to the cam.

On all three of my Kahr's that place needed a wee bit of fine touch up...

They would have worked ok, perfectly with no touch up, but the tendency to shave poly during dis-assembly and re-assembly was reduced by giving that spot some TLC.

[dudechevy]

as you hold the pistol.... right rear part of the slide... has a semicircular cut inside... at the frame rail area... the purpose of which is to allow the drawbar, which is acting as disconnector... to rise and "connect" the trigger to the cam.

On all three of my Kahr's that place needed a wee bit of fine touch up...

They would have worked ok, perfectly with no touch up, but the tendency to shave poly during dis-assembly and re-assembly was reduced by giving that spot some TLC.

I know what your talking about now. That was one of the areas I ploished after my first time shooting the gun. Thanks for the suggestion though.

David

[dudechevy]

I cleaned the pistol, and done some more polishing. I also filed the top lips on a wilson combat 1911 officers mag. I am going out to my cousin's house on sunday to try the differnt clip, and see if the extra polishing helped.

I will report back after I shoot it.

David

[dudechevy]

I took the gun out and shot it yesterday. Still had 3 rounds out of 50 that got jammed. When cleaning it I found another burr, and a place that it was rubbing. I have done all the fixes, and the prepping suggested in this forum. I am going to call Kahr today to get a return number. I am starting to regret buying this gun.

I have been wondering, with all the prep and fixes that are posted on this forum, how can we say that the CW line from Kahr is a good quality gun?

I bought a Rock Island Armory 1911 45 a few months back. I had to send it back for key holing. It works great now, but this makes me wonder has the quality of gun went down to where it is hit and miss to get a good one out of the box?

David

[MW surveyor]

Man, with your luck maybe you need to change your name to dudchevy. Joke

[hardluk1]

The kahr pistols can be a handfull for extended range sections. Sometimes function issues can go away buy just adding something to add grip and control. Get a old skinny bike inner tube. Cut pieces from 3/8" to 1 3/4 and place the skinny ones on first till you build up the grip a bit. It will let you hang on to it way better and can make some issues go away. Take them off when all broke in and proven to work well.

I have some small diamond files than I have used seemingly for ever on ever pistol I ever had, revolver trigger too. I smooth and radius every edge and corner including mag followers. One of my kahrs, a used cw9 was a nighmare for someone else and been great for me. Might have been grip control or the sharp edges and or burs. All I did was detail it and add some grip help and shoot it .
My other kahr is a new cm9 and it has been very reliable for 850 rounds so far.

Good luck with yours

[onalandline]

I took the gun out and shot it yesterday. Still had 3 rounds out of 50 that got jammed. When cleaning it I found another burr, and a place that it was rubbing. I have done all the fixes, and the prepping suggested in this forum. I am going to call Kahr today to get a return number. I am starting to regret buying this gun.

I have been wondering, with all the prep and fixes that are posted on this forum, how can we say that the CW line from Kahr is a good quality gun?

I bought a Rock Island Armory 1911 45 a few months back. I had to send it back for key holing. It works great now, but this makes me wonder has the quality of gun went down to where it is hit and miss to get a good one out of the box?

David

I have to agree. Preping a gun to shoot should mean nothing more than a regular cleaning, and not involve filing, sanding or polishing equipment.

[dudechevy]

Got my Kahr CW45 back. They had it for 3 weeks. The note inside said they reworked the barrel and the ejector. I had sent it in because it was having failure to eject.

Shot 100 rounds thur it. Had a few other people shoot it, and didnt have any problems at all. Guess it might be a keeper after all.

David

[yqtszhj]

Got my Kahr CW45 back. They had it for 3 weeks. The note inside said they reworked the barrel and the ejector. I had sent it in because it was having failure to eject.

Shot 100 rounds thur it. Had a few other people shoot it, and didnt have any problems at all. Guess it might be a keeper after all.

David

Very good news. If you got 100 through it this time I would bet it's cleared up. my first 200 were sprinkled with issues but after 201-330 were FLAWLESS!!

I'm going to buy a box of Hornandy XTP 200 or 230 gr. +p to try out. Not the critical defense though. The XTP looks a bit more like the FMJ shape than the CD.