MK9 grip mod

[JohnR]

I've started modifying my old "rubber" K9 grips to fit the MK9, and discovered that the grip angle is slightly different. Just a smidgen off. The K9 grips sill work, but it was surprising to see they aren't an exact match.

I have the length marked to cut, and the lower grip screw area marked where I'll need to route out the plastic. Fortunately the cut line is just above the lower K9 grip screw so it won't leave a trace.

Not quite sure what the best tool will be to cut them, my only choice is a band saw.

In the picture you can see the pencil mark for the routing and the knife blade mark for the cut line.

[Bawanna]

A bandsaw should work ok with a fine blade. I'd get a small block of wood and set the grip on the wood flat on that inside part where your marks are. That insures that your cutting square to the frame.

A dremel tool with a 1/8" straight router bit in a drill stand would make short work of the clearance areas.

The hardest part is going to be cutting the new mounting hole without tearing the outside rubber. Don't think they make a hole saw that small, a new sharp brad point maybe even turned by hand for the initial cut might work.

Then the dremel maybe to finish.

That's the hardest part on wood grips too, getting the depth right, and the hole dead nuts in the right spot, always a scary part right there.

I'm happy to hear your cut line was above the old lower mount hole, I was concerned about that.

[LorenzoB]

Use low speed to cut plastic. Do a practice cut lower than your line.

Maybe consider a fine toothed coping saw instead. Harbor Freight has one for $6. I've never cut a grip before, but cutting plastic and rubber require fine teeth and low speed. Then sand smooth using a little water.

Or some kind of hot knife. I've heated up a razor blade before to cut through rubber and it sliced well.

Looking forward to seeing the results!

[JohnR]

All good advice, thanks. A fine hobby saw in a miter box ought to work, and I think mine's a my dad's house along with my drill press, which should work ok for the holes. I think the frame would work for drilling from the inside - two existing screw holes for alignment, clamp the grip so it doesn't move. First hole undersized so not to disturb the threads. Just thinking out loud.

[Bawanna]

All good advice, thanks. A fine hobby saw in a miter box ought to work, and I think mine's a my dad's house along with my drill press, which should work ok for the holes. I think the frame would work for drilling from the inside - two existing screw holes for alignment, clamp the grip so it doesn't move. First hole undersized so not to disturb the threads. Just thinking out loud.

I highly discourage using the frame as an alignment jig. There isn't much threads to begin with and one slip and it's game over.

The drill press will be ok for the inside hard plastic but the bit till tear the soft rubber, that's gonna be tricky.

The downfall to the hobby saw is the back and forth motion. Far better to use a band saw with a good blade and cut with inside of grip down so any burrs will be on the inside and not the outside.
Those can be cleaned up with a razor knife etc.

I've thought many times of using the frame as a template but just can't get myself to do it, far too risky.

[jocko]

sounds to me like leavin it alone is the best fix. Just sayin

Last time I took a chance was 28 yearsd ago and got married again. Just sayin

[Bawanna]

Where's your sense of adventure? Hmmmm.

[JohnR]

Sage advice, Colonel. A test cut will be valuable.

[LorenzoB]

If you can find a sharp round piece of metal (maybe leather tooling), you could punch the hole through the rubber. I don't think drilling the rubber will work. If you can't find a punch, then freezing the grip first might allow a drill bit to work in the rubber.

[JohnR]

If it was rubber, maybe; it's hard plastic with a rubbery texture at the surface. If you have an Otterbox phone case, it's exactly like that material.

[b4uqzme]

I got an old tool for CUTTING holes in leather. It's kinda like a hole punch but hollow. You might want to look for one of those. I like the hot knife idea. That rubber is gonna squirm and take your saw blade off course...I think. A practice cut will be essential.

[LorenzoB]

If it was rubber, maybe; it's hard plastic with a rubbery texture at the surface. If you have an Otterbox phone case, it's exactly like that material.

My K9 has the same rubberized grips (the nicer ones!). I was thinking you drill through the plastic and rubber with the small drill bit, then use a bigger punch to slice through the rubber layer on the outside so it doesn't look chewed up around the screw head.

We buy steel rule dies for stamp cutting rubber shapes. The die makers have access to all sizes of hole punches that slice through the rubber cleanly. I'm sure leather guys have similar tools.... a hollow round sharp edged punch. Rubber only gets tangled up on your bit when drilling. The only possible hope you MIGHT have with a drill bit is to freeze the grip first.

I think if you bandsaw a little on the long side (like 1/16 too long). The rubber might look chewed up. Then use a hot razor to slice the rubber layer to the correct length (and taper the edge maybe), then use a fine file or wet sandpaper to shorten the plastic portion to length.

The good news is that you can do a couple of practices with different techniques to see what works best.

[LorenzoB]

Look at the bright side... it is not as risky as a covert grip chop on a polymer gun!

[JohnR]

'Tis done. The craftsmanship certainly isn't Bawanna-worthy, but as a prototype it works. And it has all the good feel my K9 has.

If I were to order fresh K9 grips and do this again, I'd leave the material at the bottom of the palm swell and just notch out around the Pearce extension.

[b4uqzme]

Hey, thanks for the follow up. They look good. You will definitely like how they feel. Now go order you some wood ones. :D

[Bawanna]

'Tis done. The craftsmanship certainly isn't Bawanna-worthy, but as a prototype it works. And it has all the good feel my K9 has.

If I were to order fresh K9 grips and do this again, I'd leave the material at the bottom of the palm swell and just notch out around the Pearce extension.

Hold your head up son! Those look great. I'd round off the bottom edge a tad so they don't look so squarish.

That was a tough task and you done good, real good.

PS- How did ya end up cutting it? I still think bandsaw would be the ticket.

[JohnR]

Yeppers, band saw, dremel-like tool (my $23 Harbor Freight special), a drill bit or two, some sandpaper. The oddball plastic material is highly resistant to rounding off with sandpaper. The band saw cut cleanly, but the other power tools had to be run at slow speed to avoid softening the plastic and producing "boogers." If you've worked plastic you know what I mean.

[RevRay]

Very nice, John. I have to say I've almost been holding my breath ... almost.

[b4uqzme]

Very nice, John. I have to say I've almost been holding my breath ... almost.

^^^^ blueboy

[LorenzoB]

Nice work John!

[berettabone]

Looks good...........maybe you could post a pic without the mag extension?