Kahr Polymer Frame Disassembly (Tutorial)

[AEnemaBay]

I noticed that there weren't any guides to disassembling the Kahr polymer frame (or I just have weak Google-fu), so I figured I'd give it a shot. This guide should be good for all TP, P, CW, and PM series of Kahr pistols. The pistol used was my new Kahr PM9.

DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU DAMAGE YOUR PISTOL WHILE PERFORMING DISASSEMBLY OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF MODIFICATIONS.

PLEASE REFER TO THE EXPLODED DIAGRAM PROVIDED BY KAHR ARMS ON THEIR WEBSITE:

http://www.kahr.com/DL/kahrpartslist.pdf

Tools
1. T5 screw driver
2. T6 screw driver
3. 1/8” pin punch
4. Brass hammer (or other non-marring hammer)
5. Dental pick (or other pointed tool)
6. Pair of small needle nose pliers

Disassembly
1. Ensure that the magazine is removed from your pistol and that the chamber is empty.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3857.jpg

2. Follow the standard procedure for field stripping of your specific pistol.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3858.jpg

3. Using a T6 screw driver, remove the slide stop spring screw and washer (30) retaining the slide release spring (29) located on the left side of the frame.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3859.jpg

4. Using a T5 screw driver, remove the side panel screw (41) located at the rear right side of the frame and gently pry the side panel up and out of the frame.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3861.jpg

5. Grab hold of the top portion of the trigger bar spring (14) using a pair of pliers and pull down and outward removing it from the frame.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3862.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3869.jpg

6. Using a 1/8” punch, remove the headed trigger pivot pin (12) from the frame taking care to remove it from left to right. NOTE: TRIGGER SPRING IS UNDER TENSION
7. With the trigger pivot pin (12) removed the trigger (9), trigger spring (10), trigger spacer (11), and trigger bar (13) can be removed from the frame.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3870.jpg

8. Using a dental pick, hook the cocking cam pivot pin (32) through the small hole in the head and remove it from the frame.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3872.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3873.jpg

9. Grab the ejector (31) and pull it out of the frame. With it, the cocking cam (15) and cocking cam spring (16) will be removed as well.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3876.jpg

10. Using a dental pick, hook the magazine catch spring (18) and pull it to the side and outward in order to release it from the magazine catch (17).
11. Using a pair of pliers grab the top of the magazine catch spring (18) and pull it straight and out of the frame.
12. Remove the magazine catch (17) from the right side of the frame.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3880.jpg

Reassembly Tips
1. The legs of the cocking cam spring (16) correspond to the holes in both the ejector (31) and the cocking cam (15) itself. The spring can be placed in either way and the entire unit in reinstalled into the frame.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3883.jpg

2. The trigger assembly is to be assembled as shown below (trigger spring (10) has been omitted from the photo for clarity).
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3890.jpg

3. The easiest way to reinstall the trigger bar spring (14) is to attach the hook onto the bar as normal and then use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the loop in the spring and then bend the lower half into the slot in the frame.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3862.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/AEnemaBay/Kahr/Disassembly/IMG_3867.jpg

4. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT over tighten the Torx screws when reinstalling them into the frame. You are mating steel threads with polymer threads and if you tighten them too much the steel threads will win and gut the polymer. Only tighten the screws until they are snug!

If anyone has any other questions you can ask them here and I'll try my best to explain it and/or provide a more detail photo of the piece/process.

[OldLincoln]

Tips on re-inserting the right side cover plate torq screw without messing anything up (e.g, how tight without stripping, etc)?

[Bawanna]

Tips on re-inserting the right side cover plate torq screw without messing anything up (e.g, how tight without stripping, etc)?

While this is a well done and informative thread I believe the best way to reinsert the right side cover plate screw as well as the slide lock lever spring screw is to leave them intact unless something is for sure broken. There seldom is any reason to go this deep into a Kahr to my feeble way of thinking.
If I ever do go inside I'll be thankful that somebody "AEnemabay"boldly went where no mans gone before. Good thread, good effort. Much appreciated. Hope I never need it but always be prepared for the worst.

[AEnemaBay]

Tips on re-inserting the right side cover plate torq screw without messing anything up (e.g, how tight without stripping, etc)?

Thanks! I'll update the OP.

[AEnemaBay]

While this is a well done and informative thread I believe the best way to reinsert the right side cover plate screw as well as the slide lock lever spring screw is to leave them intact unless something is for sure broken. There seldom is any reason to go this deep into a Kahr to my feeble way of thinking.
If I ever do go inside I'll be thankful that somebody "AEnemabay"boldly went where no mans gone before. Good thread, good effort. Much appreciated. Hope I never need it but always be prepared for the worst.

Thanks a lot. I'm also in the works of picking up a CW45 to make it a "covert" model using PM45 mags and also trying to perfect a way to shorten the reset point on my PM9. So stay tuned for more...

[Bawanna]

Thanks a lot. I'm also in the works of picking up a CW45 to make it a "covert" model using PM45 mags and also trying to perfect a way to shorten the reset point on my PM9. So stay tuned for more...

Theres lots of fellas here that will watching anxiously on that shortened trigger reset. A bit shorter reset would be a pretty cool thing.
Everyone loves a covert too so keep us in the loop on that as well.

[jocko]

While this is a well done and informative thread I believe the best way to reinsert the right side cover plate screw as well as the slide lock lever spring screw is to leave them intact unless something is for sure broken. There seldom is any reason to go this deep into a Kahr to my feeble way of thinking.
If I ever do go inside I'll be thankful that somebody "AEnemabay"boldly went where no mans gone before. Good thread, good effort. Much appreciated. Hope I never need it but always be prepared for the worst.

leave the lower grip section alone. there is just no need to take that lower section down, other than saying u can do it. Shorteneing the trigger travel/reset is going against all kahr has done to design a safe ass carry gun with no external safety. You can't do one without doing the other... Why would anyone want to make a kahr with a hariy ass trigger. If you shorten it a 1/4", it is hairy. Again IMO leave the fooker alone. It ain't ever gonna be a 1911 trigger or even a glock trigger. Why reinvent the wheel..

[dusty10]

+1 on Jocko's post. I love the trigger on the Kahrs because I was previously carrying a J frame that had trigger work done to it. Kahr triggers are just like that. Problem was, no matter how much I practiced, I could not reload that revolver as fast as I can re-insert a full mag in a semi-auto pistol. When I discovered Kahr had invented the perfect conceal carry line of weapons currently in existence, I found conceal carry nirvana. As Jocko said, "it will never be a 1911" but it already is a great carry piece.

[OldLincoln]

I tend to want to fix that which isn't broken - until I "fix" it. However, this isn't a lawnmower so I promise I WILL leave the grip plate in tact. I am used to my trigger and it definitely is not broken, but the rumor is there's something in there I can polish!! But I won't. sigh...

I am going to the range today to dirty up my PM9 so I can clean it again, and polish some more parts - YEA! I don't know what they put in that polish but it must be illegal or bad cause I can't wait.

On my aircraft (KC-135) there was a small little section on #2 inboard nacelle that aligned perfectly to see the landing gear, only it was a dull color. I about wore my hands out using never-dull to make it mirror perfect. I had the only plane in the fleet that the a/c could visual the main gear. They really appreciated that, guess they preferred landing on rubber tires. I always flew with them so I confess a bit of enlightened self interest.

[wyntrout]

Hey! That would have been a good suggestion for all planes that would benefit the crews immensely. A buffer would have been nice, too.
It's nice to know the condition of your landing gear and tires so you can take the appropriate actions. Surprises suck with aircraft and they are big Molotov Cocktails waiting to be ignited.:eek:
Wynn:)

[O'Dell]

I tend to want to fix that which isn't broken - until I "fix" it. However, this isn't a lawnmower so I promise I WILL leave the grip plate in tact. I am used to my trigger and it definitely is not broken, but the rumor is there's something in there I can polish!! But I won't. sigh...

I am going to the range today to dirty up my PM9 so I can clean it again, and polish some more parts - YEA! I don't know what they put in that polish but it must be illegal or bad cause I can't wait.

On my aircraft (KC-135) there was a small little section on #2 inboard nacelle that aligned perfectly to see the landing gear, only it was a dull color. I about wore my hands out using never-dull to make it mirror perfect. I had the only plane in the fleet that the a/c could visual the main gear. They really appreciated that, guess they preferred landing on rubber tires. I always flew with them so I confess a bit of enlightened self interest.

I couldn't see the gear on my jet, just three little lights. I was told though, that if it took zone 5 burner to taxi back to the ramp. you probably landed wheels up.

[OldLincoln]

I couldn't see the gear on my jet, just three little lights. I was told though, that if it took zone 5 burner to taxi back to the ramp. you probably landed wheels up.The B-58's landed blind with the angle of attack too high and the wing blocking so they would line up, flare and pray.

We had one that missed and the gear made a hole in the mud about 2' deep before the engines spooled up and actually pulled it free. I doubt it was mud in the crew's shorts after that. I went out and saw the mud all over the gear and fuselage and the hole it made.

Another flared and the thing fell out of the sky a good 6 feet off the runway. Actually broke it's back and you could see down inside through a big crack it made.

What's sad is that it was an impossible plane to fly yet they screwed the a/c who broke one. My crew and I had dinner in Spain with a B-58 crew from our base. The next morning they were to fly into the Paris Air Show. They landed 20' short and all perished. It was an interesting high performance aircraft but not sustainable.

[OldLincoln]

In my outfit, I followed the don't ask permission strategy. I'm sue they have regs that say no to everything so I simply didn't ask. Not even for the coffee cup holders! Wynn can attest to dealing with those 12 hr flights and the only place to set your paper coffee cup is on the center console with everything you will need for an inflight emergency. Sheetmetal shop was very obliging so I just did it - Nike style.

Problem was the other chiefs didn't appreciate what they had. They wouldn't fly unless they had to and couldn't wait to get rid of the bird on fly days. When I wasn't flying I'd stand by and watch mine take off with a little misty pride in my eye.

[wyntrout]

Yeah, we had to find somewhere to go 'cause they kept talking about GUNS on the General Discussion Forum.

And, our policy was always "if you can't stand the answer, don't ask the question".

Wynn :D

[O'Dell]

The B-58's landed blind with the angle of attack too high and the wing blocking so they would line up, flare and pray.

We had one that missed and the gear made a hole in the mud about 2' deep before the engines spooled up and actually pulled it free. I doubt it was mud in the crew's shorts after that. I went out and saw the mud all over the gear and fuselage and the hole it made.

Another flared and the thing fell out of the sky a good 6 feet off the runway. Actually broke it's back and you could see down inside through a big crack it made.

What's sad is that it was an impossible plane to fly yet they screwed the a/c who broke one. My crew and I had dinner in Spain with a B-58 crew from our base. The next morning they were to fly into the Paris Air Show. They landed 20' short and all perished. It was an interesting high performance aircraft but not sustainable.

But they sure were purty!

[O'Dell]

In my outfit, I followed the don't ask permission strategy. I'm sue they have regs that say no to everything so I simply didn't ask. Not even for the coffee cup holders! Wynn can attest to dealing with those 12 hr flights and the only place to set your paper coffee cup is on the center console with everything you will need for an inflight emergency. Sheetmetal shop was very obliging so I just did it - Nike style.

Problem was the other chiefs didn't appreciate what they had. They wouldn't fly unless they had to and couldn't wait to get rid of the bird on fly days. When I wasn't flying I'd stand by and watch mine take off with a little misty pride in my eye.

Coffee? You had coffee? They didn't put cup holders in F-4's.

But we could smoke. You just had to be careful when you stomped out the butt on the deck, you didn't stomp the rudder pedal.

[wyntrout]

I'll say you could smoke... you guys were easy to spot with your trail of smoke.:boink:

I liked having 8 engines, 6 crewmembers... at least, and an ejection seat... even though mine was downward firing. :eek: The BUFF was a pretty sturdy airplane and is outlasting most of the other aircraft in our "inventory". At least I was born BEFORE the plane was built, unlike all of the crews flying them today.

Wynn:D

[Bawanna]

Don't ya just love this place! We can start talking about tearing a Kahr frame apart and end up chatting about big ole jets and stuff.
I almost wet myself reading about getting back to the ramp of full afterburner with wheels up. Sides still hurt.

Just to try and fit in I flew a couple Cessna 150's and 185's once. And even a Beechcraft Bonanza once. Didn't bomb nobody and was happy the rubber band that kept the big thing on the front going round and round didn't break.

[Seahawk60]

Back on the original subject...

My older (2004) PM9 doesn't have a torx fastener on the side frame plate. It looks to be a pin that is punched out from left to right. It has a flat head (no hole for a tool) on the right/panel side and is large enough that it cannot be driven through the frame from right to left. The other (left) side looks like it's a roll pin. In fact, it's barely visible. Anyone else's like this?

[earle8888]

Wyntrout--- G or H model? How did your microwave work?

[OldLincoln]

Oops, Bless you John, I'm sure I would have been banned in any other forum. Maybe I should prattle on in another forum and just post links to it in this one. Guess I AM the definition of Hijacking. Better than being hung.... Did I tell you about my great uncle..... sigh.

[Snazuolu]

i was a crew chief on 135's. when were you in lincoln and where? oh and BTW pertaining to this threads original topic, that trigger spring assembly is rough getting it back in right. but after i cleaned everything out, it seems to me to be a lil easier to squeeze now

[cktenders]

Any tips on how to get the trigger/trigger spacer/spring/trigger bar back in. I have gone mad trying to get it back in. I just don't get. Thank you for any help.

[skater4790]

Hi AEnemabay

I wanted to change my trigger on my PM9 and I wanted to know how did you remove the very small pin that holds the trigger pivot pin in place.

[gpo1956]

Which of the numbered steps are required to only remove the trigger? I have GOT to round it off and polish it! I shot 200 rounds today and the only sore spot is my trigger finger.

[Kevin]

On my aircraft (KC-135) there was a small little section on #2 inboard nacelle that aligned perfectly to see the landing gear, only it was a dull color. I about wore my hands out using never-dull to make it mirror perfect. I had the only plane in the fleet that the a/c could visual the main gear. They really appreciated that, guess they preferred landing on rubber tires. I always flew with them so I confess a bit of enlightened self interest.

As a retired-135 driver, I always marveled and appreciated how the dedicated crew chiefs would make those special mods to their jets. I salute you!

Also, flew -135's in CA, with the Grizzlies... Those were the days!

Now I'm here instead of an aviation forum trying to learn how to properly "fly" my new PM9...

[jocko]

Another good reason not to mess with the kahr trigger system. It is a bugger to get back in. I wish I could tell you how to put it back easily but I have never messed in that area. In the polymer kahrs that trigger pin is also held in place by a small nearly invisible set pin on the left side of the trigger/frame. U will notice a small small hole and what looks to be a pin there. The trigger pin when installed rides over that set pin and that is what keeps the trigger pin from drifting outward. That little pin is not remvable to my knowledge and it is a real ***** to get that trigger pin back in and past that set pin. My guess would be a good sight pusher tool would help do that, as I am not sure pounding that trigger pin back in is the correct way..
Some people tend to have issues later on down the road to with their trigger pin starting to move outward, once they have taken that pin back out and the reinstalled it..

For me I know enough about kahrs to know also to leave that area alone if at all possable.

[gpo1956]

I got it detail stripped with no problems. Radius'ed and polished the trigger and the trigger bar and it is good to go. Very very nice after the polishing. Shot another 100 rounds and it make all the difference in the the world to my trigger finger.

[jlottmc]

Back on the original subject...

My older (2004) PM9 doesn't have a torx fastener on the side frame plate. It looks to be a pin that is punched out from left to right. It has a flat head (no hole for a tool) on the right/panel side and is large enough that it cannot be driven through the frame from right to left. The other (left) side looks like it's a roll pin. In fact, it's barely visible. Anyone else's like this?


I have an older P45 that is this same way.

[Seahawk60]

I have an older P45 that is this same way.

Cool. How does it shoot? I hope I never have to get into that area and mess with the slide plate since my Kahr is no longer under warranty.

[jocko]

I have an older P45 that is this same way.

is the same just lately they have went to a torx screw. I personally like the pin better. I can't say enough to not take that side plate off, especially to think your gonna polish the trigger bar and make it better. Rounds will do the same thing, you can oil or grease where that spring rides on the trigger bar from above even. Not saying someone didn't get a gritty trigger bar, indeed they might have but 99% are smooth as glass and the other 1% will smooth itself out with rounds down range. That side plate has to be tight against the frame of the gun. Many guns are out of time due to a bad trigger bar or a defective side plate that is loose. If at all possable leave it alone. It's your gun, so do as you please. I am merely trying to advise.

If u just gotta take that plate off, a very small punch the size of that pin on the left side of the gun and a slight tap and the pin will back out. It is reueable..

[Wizzard]

AEnemaBay:
I appreciate all the work (explanations and photos) you posted for the Kahr frame disassembling. Nicely done.

Wizzard

[powwowell]

AEnemaBay:
I appreciate all the work (explanations and photos) you posted for the Kahr frame disassembling. Nicely done.

Wizzard

Plus 1 for AEnemaBay. Come back to the forum. Please! If someone didn't re-invent the wheel, we would still be travelling in ox carts, with wooden wheels.

[PM9OWNER]

Sorry for resurrecting this very old thread, but I'm stumped and need someones help.
I've got to step #7, but cannot get the trigger, spacer, trigger spring, nor the trigger bar out of the frame.. They loosened up pretty good when I took the trigger pin out, just cannot separate them.
I got a gritty trigger bar in my pm9 that hasn't changed in over 1000 rounds, and I can't stand it now that I've felt how smooth they are on other kahrs. Call me picky, but I NEED to polish her up. Any tips? This is the only how to video that I cannot find on youtube, haha.

Edit: well I did finally get the trigger group out and the trigger bar had some rough looking machining marks where the trigger bar spring rides.. I took some really fine sand paper to it and then some flitz, now the spring rides super smoothly on that trigger bar. I think it will be as smooth as my T9, IF I can get it back together.. :cool:

[1lowlife]

I'm not sorry for resurrecting this very old thread..:)

I'd also like to thank AEnemaBay for posting this thread.

I recently bought a CM9 and sent the slide, slide back plate, slide stop, and trigger to Springer Precision to have them refinished in Ionbond.
I wanted the pistol black.

This thread helped me remove the trigger so I could just mail in the parts rather than having to pay shipping for the entire pistol.

And this link, provided by gb6491, helped me put it back together

http://www.gunreports.com/special_reports/handguns/Kahr-Pistol-Disassembly184-1.html

[xsailer]

I've seen this before but can't remember where. In the future I know I would like to have access to it again as I consider the break down information would be VERY helpful. I've searched in the Sticky area and didn't see it. Would I be out of line to suggest it be worthwhile to make a sticky out of the lower disassemby/assembly?
Sorry if I overlooked the Sticky search.

[CJB]

kudos!!!!

[LorenzoB]

Thanks PM9OWNER for bringing this thread back up. I needed it too to help a friend with a gritty trigger. And thanks AEnemaBay for such nice photos and notes. That took some work.

[fuzzy4life]

This is a great thread not sure why someone would bash a person for putting out information that could help someone I thought that is the reason this forum is here. Anyway thanks AEnemabay for this great thread. My trigger bar was terribly gritty and the trigger felt like a ratchet and its now silky smooth!!!!!