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Thread: Proper prep of a new kahr

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    140

    Default

    A couple of things:

    First, with spray chemicals safety glasses are a must! I hosed myself in the eyes a few months back while cleaning the firing pin channel on a Sig 229, no fun.

    Second, how difficult is it to remove the back plate on the slide to remove the striker? On the outside it looks no worse than a Glock, and I take down my Glocks down all the way with no issues. I'm amazed at how much gunk I can get out of the extractor channel.

    I picked up my new PM9 today and will be following the guidelines tomorrow.

    Thanks,

    Mitch

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    130

    Default It's

    Quote Originally Posted by BroncoAZ View Post
    A couple of things:

    First, with spray chemicals safety glasses are a must! I hosed myself in the eyes a few months back while cleaning the firing pin channel on a Sig 229, no fun.

    Second, how difficult is it to remove the back plate on the slide to remove the striker? On the outside it looks no worse than a Glock, and I take down my Glocks down all the way with no issues. I'm amazed at how much gunk I can get out of the extractor channel.

    I picked up my new PM9 today and will be following the guidelines tomorrow.

    Thanks,

    Mitch
    not any more trouble than a glock to remove that back plate. Just really unnecessary to do so with that little clean out hole. I have never had that back plate off on my glock in over 5000 rounds. as their little clean out hole seems to clean that inside very well. I have never had my extractor out of my PM9 in 28,900 rounds, I just spray behind it and reoil and it has never given one issue. Kahr has a patent on thier extractor, and if one reads up on it, they "claim" their extractor is self cleaning, whether that really holds true our not is ones own opinion. I cna just say that i have never had mine apart, as it seems to spray clean pretty decent also.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    12

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    Jocko,

    Thanks for the info. Very helpful.

    Dave D

  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by jocko View Post
    #10 < ... > Let someone load your magazine for u, so u don't know if any snap caps are in that magazine. I can assure u, it will show ur shooting errors BIGTIME..
    Just wondering what the rationale is here? How will it show your errors?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Wet & Wild Pacific NW
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    33,036

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    Quote Originally Posted by yoyomeng View Post
    Just wondering what the rationale is here? How will it show your errors?
    Having someone else load your mags keeps you from knowing or anticipating a snap cap or training round. If you move when a snap cap chambers it tells you that you are flinching, anticipating, or making an allowance of some sort prior to the gun firing. Nothing should happen, no movement when you shoot a snap cap. Easier said than done also. Lots of experienced shooters slip now and then and you get a called flier. You knew it was going off target right as you pull the trigger.
    In Memory of Paul "Dietrich" Stines.
    Dad: Say something nice to your cousin Shirley
    Dietrich: For a fat girl you sure don't sweat much.
    Cue sound of Head slap.

    RIP Muggsy & TMan

    "If you are a warrior legally authorized to carry a weapon and you step outside without that weapon, then you become a sheep, pretending that JOCKO will not come today."

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    104

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    Another tip ... coat the slide rail with Bux Dri-Slide if you can find it. If you can't find the Bux brand, you should be able to find Dri-Slide at most bicycle shops. Just make sure it's labeled Molybdenum Disulfide.

    To coat the slide rails:
    1. Remove the slide from the frame per the normal field stripping technique
    2. Remove the guide rod and barrel from the slide per the normal field stripping technique
    3. Turn slide over so you are looking at the under-side of the slide
    4. Ensure that the end of the slide with the opening for the barrel and guide rod is tilted up at about a 45 degree angle
    5. Place one drop of Dri-Slide at the top of each rail and allow it to run down the rails until it runs out of the slide (it's black and will make a mess so do this over an old towel or something similar)
    6. Allow the liquid to dissipate before re-assembling the gun
    7. Re-assemble the gun
    8. Rack the slide several times and note the smoothness of the movement
    9. Re-apply after about every 250-500 cycles of the slide

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    DFW TX
    Posts
    3,476

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    I may need to link to this in my signature...
    Attitude: it takes 43 muscles to frown, 17 to smile...and 3 for proper trigger squeeze.

    The olive branch is considered a symbol of peace, and good will. Last time I checked, it's still a switch.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    17

    Default This is Great Advice

    Ran through these steps with my brand new p380 today.
    Went to the range afterwards with the following results.
    1st 100 rds-3 FTF (2 WWB, 1 Rem UMC)
    next 150 rds-no problems
    1/2 box speer gold dot-no problems
    Overall, I am very happy with the gun, and it is very accurate.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    130

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    nice report, some would have panicked with the 3ftf etc, but no doubt rounds down range is the best break in one can do for any gun, but the propper prepping makes the pain alittle easier also. I love my P380, the most accurate of allmy 3 kahrs, now figure that sh-t out if u can..

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    104

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    I followed Jocko's (and my) break-in recommendations for my new PM9 and had not a single FTF.

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