Happiness is a new gun 2

[BirdsThaWord]

Very Nice!
I'm trying to get my Dad to sell me his Ruger Stainless Security 6 4" gun.
It's too heavy for my mom so he's shopping for something smaller and lighter.
I'm sure he hasn't fired it in 20 years LOL!
I'm not sure he's ever fired it at all (it looks unfired).
He's not a gun guy at all (so why won't he sell it to me ).
Oh well, I'll inherit it from him some day anyway...

The Security 6 looks just like this -

Sweet looking revolver. I love revolvers with target sights! On the Smith’s, I like full lugs. On the Rugers, the partial lugs look better if you ask me. Goes with all of the other lines better. I’d love to polish that and put some high gloss silver/black (charcoal grey) Altamonte’s on it.

[JohnR]

This makes my 4th SP101. My others were .357 (2 sold when the S&W 640 won my heart). And an older 6-round 4” .22LR which I’ll keep 4-evah.

[BirdsThaWord]

I can live with the fact that he likes you better Colonel. I'd deal with it even better though if I could add his V10 to the stable though

That is exactly how mine started Bird. As you said, it's the same gun, caliber and all. I'm more than happy with how mine looks now, but I'm sure that before you're done yours will make mine look like it's been neglected.
I do hope that Tisas will make an all steel Officer size in the future, whether it be black or stainless. At this point I would personally prefer a black one since I'm covered for stainless

Funny thing is, you are the main reason why I was initially shooting for the Tisas offerings. When the rubber met the road though, thinking about what all I wanted to do, the RIA won out. I had no idea at the time that it was the other one you had recently acquired and had been doing all the smithin on. Great minds think alike? Or are we just 2 goofballs? Really hoping it’s the 1st one!

[BirdsThaWord]

This makes my 4th SP101. My others were .357 (2 sold when the S&W 640 won my heart). And an older 6-round 4” .22LR which I’ll keep 4-evah.

So why don’t you like SP101’s?

[BirdsThaWord]

Nice, I like that barrel length. Mine is in 357.

I’ve wanted a GP100, or an Alaskan for a polishing project since seeing them. I think the lines kind of make for a “steam punk” look, or just a real beefy look to them. Kind of what I like in the looks of some of the old top breaks. I want one!!!!

[dao]

Funny thing is, you are the main reason why I was initially shooting for the Tisas offerings. When the rubber met the road though, thinking about what all I wanted to do, the RIA won out. I had no idea at the time that it was the other one you had recently acquired and had been doing all the smithin on. Great minds think alike? Or are we just 2 goofballs? Really hoping it’s the 1st one!

Well I can't speak for you Bird, but my Mom's nickname amongst her brothers and sisters was Goofy. I'm told I didn't fall very far from the tree. Still, if my RIA shoots as well as the Tisas' I've had and shot, I'll be happy with it now that I've removed the "paint" from the flats, and replaced some of the small bits. For you I think it represents a brand new, blank canvas that you can turn into a beautiful object. Harder to do that with a coated gun. For me I have it as shiny as I would want it to be, for carry purposes. And for what my lack of patience will allow.

BTW I think all 1911 extractors are bent to some degree. It's how they are tensioned (ie adjusted). I could be wrong on some of the higher tiered guns, like customs. But if you think about it, if the hook does not protrude inward from the inside edge of the channel it would likely not extend inward past the edge of the case rim. And they do act as a spring of sorts when latching onto and letting go of the case, so my hunch is that they are all bent to some degree. And 9mm have to be bent more to grab the smaller diameter of the case rim. So when being removed they have to be pushed outward more in order to get the hook "inside" the channel as it's being pushed or pulled out of the slide. The Weigand tool allows you to increase or decrease that bend in order to arrive at the proper tension. A good gunsmith with lots of experience probably does it by feel. I am not a gunsmith by any stretch and cannot get it done right by feel. Proper tensioning for autos is between 25 and 28ozs. Anything above or below will probably result in erratic extraction/ejection and FTE's, according to the things I've read.

[Bawanna]

Your correct, all 1911 extractors are bent. Even the top shelf, cost as much as my truck models.

[jeepster09]

I’ve wanted a GP100, or an Alaskan for a polishing project since seeing them. I think the lines kind of make for a “steam punk” look, or just a real beefy look to them. Kind of what I like in the looks of some of the old top breaks. I want one!!!!

Here you go.....

[BirdsThaWord]

Here you go.....

OMG! Drool, drool, drool! Is it wrong to want to sleep with a revolver?

[BirdsThaWord]

Well I can't speak for you Bird, but my Mom's nickname amongst her brothers and sisters was Goofy. I'm told I didn't fall very far from the tree. Still, if my RIA shoots as well as the Tisas' I've had and shot, I'll be happy with it now that I've removed the "paint" from the flats, and replaced some of the small bits. For you I think it represents a brand new, blank canvas that you can turn into a beautiful object. Harder to do that with a coated gun. For me I have it as shiny as I would want it to be, for carry purposes. And for what my lack of patience will allow.

BTW I think all 1911 extractors are bent to some degree. It's how they are tensioned (ie adjusted). I could be wrong on some of the higher tiered guns, like customs. But if you think about it, if the hook does not protrude inward from the inside edge of the channel it would likely not extend inward past the edge of the case rim. And they do act as a spring of sorts when latching onto and letting go of the case, so my hunch is that they are all bent to some degree. And 9mm have to be bent more to grab the smaller diameter of the case rim. So when being removed they have to be pushed outward more in order to get the hook "inside" the channel as it's being pushed or pulled out of the slide. The Weigand tool allows you to increase or decrease that bend in order to arrive at the proper tension. A good gunsmith with lots of experience probably does it by feel. I am not a gunsmith by any stretch and cannot get it done right by feel. Proper tensioning for autos is between 25 and 28ozs. Anything above or below will probably result in erratic extraction/ejection and FTE's, according to the things I've read.

10-4! I really thought that you meant that they (in that specific gunl) were more of a sort of bommerang shape (which would still make sense as the end of each boomerang leg resting against the tunnel with either greater or lesser force would provide either less or more "spring". On the newer (usually poly guns) I noticed that they have acheived this effect by breaking up the extractor, putting a spring in there and then an specifically angled"actuating rod" that rides sgainst the extractor (just like on our kahrs), while others (external extractors) use a pivoting spring force. Interesting engineering and always impressed how those guys figured out different methods to acheive the same result.